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Showing results for tags '1300'.
Hi Everyone. Triumph newbie here - proud new owner of a special built by my Uncle in 1970 and handed over to me last Saturday. I've always wanted to own this car ever since I saw it as a 5 year old, and now my dream has finally been realised! However, I have to admit, I've not done any significant work on any car since I changed the brake pads on my Citroen GSA in 1993, so I may well have to turn for help here, as I'm currently running a quite finely tuned 2 seater sports car with a modified 1300 Herald engine sporting a profiled cam and twin Weber carbs. Help! Interested in any events going on in the South, especially around the Brighton area, tips, hints and general advice welcome! Cheers, Dom
Hi everyone, I've got a really confusing idling issue that I just cannot find the solution to. It's on a Mk3 Spitfire (FD engine) 1300. The engine seems to have developed an irregular misfire and/or very rough idle (please see the two videos below, as they show it better than I can explain!) which I cannot seem to remedy, no matter what I do. The revs can vary wildly (sometimes as much as between 1500-3000rpm) running fast or nearly stalling, with no apparent pattern as to when it will/won't misfire. I have swapped in and out various components (list below) and re-set and adjusted the timing, mixture, and idle speed screw settings every which way I think I can with no results. There is good supply of fuel to the carbs, and the car has run well on this same tank of fuel before (so I don't think it's contaminated) and a good spark from each plug. If I had to describe it (and I am clutching at straws at this point), I would say it seems like the timing is maybe 'wandering', with the time of spark meaning the odd late/early/missed detonation. It's an AC Delco distributor. I don't have much knowledge about distributors, but could the centrifugal weights sticking cause this sort of issue? I haven't had chance to get my timing light out yet to see if there is anything noticeable there. Video 1 (Revs) Video 2 (Engine bay) I have swapped around and used various different combinations of the following components: - HT Leads (old set & new club supplied set) - Plugs (original Champion N9YCC & new Bosch WR7DC+) - Condenser (original & two new ones) - Points (original & club supplied set) - Distributor cap (original & club supplied) - Rotor arm (original & club supplied) - Coil (original & new Bosch) I have recently replaced the following: - Float chamber needle valves and floats. Also cleaned thoroughly, breather hole clear, valves moving freely, appears to be good fuel flow. - Air filters. I have reverted back to standard from the K&Ns I had fitted before, until I can get things running right. I have been running without air filters while trying to get the idle to settle. - Cable from coil to points (had no effect) - Cable from distributor base plate to outer casing (replacing the cloth covered original, had no effect) I have also done the following engine jobs, but before this problem arose (so hopefully won't be a part of it): - Replace manifold gasket and seal with blue Hylomar - Replace and seal around carb/manifold gaskets with Loctite 574 - Thoroughly clean and check carbs, needles, jets, etc. - Fuel pump - All fuel lines, mostly rigid copper line with Codan R9 flexible hoses in the necessary places. - In-line fuel filters (glass), one after tank, one after pump. Both appear full with good fuel flow. Any thoughts greatly appreciated... Matt
Hi all, First post on the forum. I have a 1978 spitfire 1500 that I have owned for 28 years which has been the subject of a rolling restoration over many years. The subject of this post is a 1971 Spitfire Mk IV which hasn’t run for 20 odd years. I have spent several months rebuilding the fuel system - pump, carburettors etc which were full of old dried fuel and seized. Having fixed this - and with the engine turning freely - I was then looking to see what else was required before it could be started. However, further inspection of the engine has revealed bent push rods and the inlet valves for cylinders 2 and 3 locked in the open position. I am guessing that the stuck valves are bent. Therefore, before I remove the cylinder head for further investigation, can anyone tell me if the pistons hit the valves? Is it worth removing the head with the engine in the car or is a larger engine rebuild needed so I might as well just take it out? thanks, Jeff
Hi all, Adamant on becoming a classic car driver / enthusiast and found a nice 50year old triumph 1300 FWD within budget. Been to view it, needs a bit of TLC cosmetically but undergone a decent amount of mechanical works and it's just passed an MOT no advisories. My only real concern is the way the engine sounded, there was quite an obvious clattering sound which grew as the car accelerated. I'd be grateful if you could see the attached video and give me any idea of if I should be concerned as a first time buyer of a classic about this kinda noise. Is it normal or a serious underlying condition? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqOQTXzJW2o&feature=youtu.be My only other concern was looking up into the engine bay from under the car, there was some oil present on the front of the engine, I was with the guy with several hours though and none ever dripped down to the floor, so uncertain if this is an old issue. Appreciate its not the best angled photo but the best I could do I'm very appreciative of any help and hopefully in the next few days I might have myself a cracking piece of history and become an active member of the forum (y) Regards -Si