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Found 13 results

  1. Hello folks, Firstly hello, I'm Jim from Chester. Just signed up here as my Godmother has given me hopefully a very early inheritance present of an original condition 77 Spitfire 1500 she's owned since 1980. She's now 82 and just downsized to a retirement flat with no garage and someone has the tough job of looking after the Spitfire which will be me. I'm in need of an accurate valuation for insurance purposes initially and any willing sponsors to fund tidying it up 🙂 Can anyone kindly recommend where I can get a good valuation please? Many thanks Jim
  2. After my run out yesterday, I checked the temperature around the engine with my IR temperature probe. Specifically around the sump and bottom of the engine. I know oil has to be hotter than the water in the engine so that any moisture gets driven out - but what temperature should it be? I was reading over 100'C (107-110) at the sump in places - though the bottom of the sump was slightly lower than 100 - the top hose was around 85'C I discounted the temperature on the exhaust manifold side at nearly 150 on account its proximity! This was after a 15-20 mile run at upto 70mph on a dual carriage way but the last 5miles was between 30 and 40 due to the speed limit, so I assume would have cooled down slightly?
  3. You may have read my post about holiday disaster. I've now got the car running. But the 1st time I tried to select reverse the lever just swings round to the right as though there is no reverse gate . If I'm carefull I can find the reverse gate but the gears grind a little before engaging. I think the breakdown people must have forced something trying to find reverse . Any ideas of what I need to look for ? Is there a stop that could've been broken , or linkage problem? This is single rail , I really have had enough of this experience.
  4. After having trouble with after market sender units I finally got what I think is an original . It looks the right design came in a box and has Wipec marked on it. However when I fitted it ,in I hope the only position it will go, an empty tank still reads 1/3 full. I realise I can bend the arm slightly to set this or it might be catching somewhere. But I can fit it with the arm and float either behind or in front of the petrol feed pipe going to the outlet of the tank . Any advice on which side it should be would be welcome.
  5. I WILL BE FITTING A REVOTEC ELECTRIC FAN KIT TO SPITFIRE 1500, THEY SUGGEST PLACING THE TEMPERATURE SENOR IN THE BOTTOM HOSE. TO ME THIS SOUNDS A GOOD IDEA AS YOU ARE THEN MONITORING THE COOLED WATER TEMP. BUT I SEE THAT MOST PICTURES I'VE SEEN OF PEOPLES CARS WITH E FANS THEY'VE PUT THE SENSOR IN THE TOP HOSE. IT HAS AN ADJUSTABLE HEAT RANGE SO I SUPPOSE I CAN SET TO A TEMP I'M HAPPY WITH . WOULD BE INTERESTED IN PEOPLES OPINIONS..
  6. I’ve now got a set of spring compressors from the Club Shop and thought I would assemble the front struts. Once I’d actually got the bushes in the right place, they are quite easy to do.
  7. Hi all, I managed to pick up a rear number plate lamp at a car boot sale for pennies the other day, one of these: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID005822 I prefer these over the two little bobble lights that are currently on my Spitfire, however the two stalks that come off the bottom of the lamp that fit into the bumper aren't wide enough apart to fit the holes where the current lights are. Have I picked up a rear lamp for another model, or do I need to get my drill out? (gulp!) Thanks, Simon
  8. For the second time, I’ve run into a problem with the way the mounting thread has been cut (sloppily) in a replacement oil filter for my Spitfire 1500. The filter was purchased from a well known purveyor of Triumph parts near Lincoln, but the first time it happened, it was a Halfords own brand filter a couple of years ago. What happened on both occasions was that when the engine was started after the oil change, the oil filter flew off and a large puddle of oil appeared on my driveway. Both these filters had tightened up after only a couple of turns, so with not many threads keeping them on, they couldn’t stand up to the oil pressure. On the first occasion, I had actually bought two filters at the same time, and the second one went on with about 5 turns before it tightened, and worked perfectly. I should have been suspicious about this later one, as exactly the same thing happened. I was able to partially rectify the situation by putting the old filter back on, but obviously this isn’t ideal. I see that Halfords appear to be doing Crosland, Bosch and Mann filters if you do a search on MG Midget 1500. Anyone got any recommendations? Simon
  9. Due to my heavy handidness with a screwdriver on the clamp screw - I now need to secure the switches to the column. Or replace the switches. Any ideas. Late 1500 Spitfire.
  10. At some point in the nearish future, I will be stripping and rebuilding my Spitfire's engine. It's currently (As far as I know) standard - though is from a Dolly 1500! I don't want to build a racing engine, but would like to do some sensible upgrades to improve reliability and drivability. Whilst I don't have a bottomless budget, I would rather spend a few quid more now and not regret it later! I would like to fit a sports exhaust at the same time too. I've read that a Newmans mildroad cam is a good option, and payan gaskets are the best, but what bearings and rings? TIA
  11. It's been a while since I posted anything on the forum, in fact I'm not sure I've posted anything on this one, it was all on the old one! I notice that another contributor (mishmosh) had bought a manifold from a Chester based supplier that I assume is the same one that I've just bought one from. I actually got my local garage to fit it, and they've had a hell of a time with it. The manifold pipes were bent incorrectly to the extent that the mating faces couldn't be bolted to the head because the pipes were hard against the engine, and the mounting holes wouldn't line up. After a lot of work, they managed to get it on, but it still won't seal properly against the head, which means it's blowing. The only reason I got this was to avoid the manifold to downpipe gasket problem, but this is now seeming like a small price to pay given this problem. So, I need suggestions. Do I: a) Go back to a standard system and live with having to change the gasket occasionally? Get a better 4 branch manifold- recommendations as to ones that actually fit? I hoping the Chester based supplier will take the other one back- I'm thinking they should, it's certainly not fit for purpose. Simon
  12. Hello, last summer after a very slow hot drive on the M25 my radiator over boiled as I arrived at my destination. On further investigation I found the fuse housing had melted on my kenlow fan, and it was no longer working. following morning I topped up the radiator and i noticed steam escaping the radiator core once warm, and the fan did not respond despite new fuse, and housing. I decided to flush the system with a rad weld cleaner before using rad weld to try and resolve the leak a couple of months later and refit my old mechanical fan. The car has been stranded at my parents, so I'm tinkering with it once ever 3 months at the moment. Anyhow, I ran the car yesterday, and after 10 minutes or so, just before I was about to switch it off to drain the cleaner, I noticed coolant escaping from the weephole under the water pump. i'm certain the car was not over heating at this point, anyway I switched it off immediately. I didn't see any steam from the core this time. And it wasn't steam, but water from the weep hole. What do people suggest I do next? Dave.
  13. Hi All, I'm just rebuilding a standard 1500 engine for Spitfire, and am going to fit a new cam. I'm not looking at doing any tuning work on it, so upgrades are not of primary importance. Just after a solid reliable motor. If, for around the same sort of money, I can get something a little better without porting etc, then that would be good. It appears that TH5 and TR5 do not do much without the extra work. The vast array of cams of different grinds and manufacturers is giving me a headache, so would someone please make the decision for me? I've read about the concerns of hardening on regrinds, so don't want to go for an exchange, unless someone knows of a source that is known to have a good re-hardening process. I am interested in the price!! When the existing (dying) motor comes out, that may get treated quite differently!! Any other pointers for supply of the other internal gratefully received. Who supplies high quality mains/ends at a good price? What are all these complete rebuild kits like? Many thanks for your offerings. Brendan Again spending my money on her spitfire!!
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