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Found 5 results

  1. Hi. I have a Mk II GT6 that has been off the road for about 10 years, and am looking to get it back there for its 50th birthday (September). My issue at the moment is that the engine is running very rough (misfires and very little power). I'm gradually working my way through potential causes (timing, valve clearances, etc) but my suspicion is that the problem is with the carbs, and one thing I want to check is the needles. The issue is complicated by the fact that the previous owner had some modifications done, the relevant ones here being that the engine is stroked out to 2.5 litres and has a Moss fast road cam. There was also fuel injection fitted, but I had that changed back to carbs (Stromberg 150 CD). My questions are (1) does anyone know what the correct needles would be for this setup, and (2) if the current needles were incorrect, would that alone be sufficient to cause the problems I am experiencing? Thanks
  2. Hi guys A few tips if you don't mind as I'm sure some of you must have had the issue! LITTLE BIT OF BACKGROUND: 1147 Herald which I got back on the road 500 miles ago has been running perfectly as I have gradually increased the distances, speeds and time of trips. slightly longer trip last week on the M way so higher speeds than normal and a longer trip, all went well, nice smooth running. ISSUE: Once off the motorway,car started stalling when pulling up so no tick-over every time I pulled up. After a couple of roadside stops and some tinkering with the volume adjuster and tick-over screw, all was back to normal and the trip back was as smooth as the one out. I have taken the car out this week and instantly, the tick-over issue has returned and the car running generally rough. ACTIONS SO FAR Checked compression's, all good Re-adjusted the tick-over and volume adjusters Replaced soiled fuel filter Replaced (very soiled) air filter (which also smelt very fuel rich) Adjusted timing which appeared to be slightly out Removed & cleaned carb mixture jet Checked points gap Checked plugs gaps (rich deposits on plugs) CURRENT SITUATION: Tick-over now good when warmed up and choke pushed full in ISSUE: Car is now very under-powered compared to previously, particularly at the higher speed end, 50mph, doesn't want to go any higher with foot flat to the floor and it was slow getting to that point. OBSERVATIONS: Some back-firing and carb popping when accelerating and slowing Temperature good and stead Oil pressure good Vacuum same as previously was NEXT STEPS: Any thoughts welcome guys and gals but do you think I'm right to be looking at: Carburettor Fuel delivery Re-looking at the timing Like I say, any assistance, thoughts, ideas very much welcome. All the best Gary
  3. I was just perusing Triumph's owner's handbook for my 13/60 whilst trying to get the hang of the ignition timing process – sorry, I've only had the car since early August, and stuff like this is still a bit foggy for me. Anyway, I turned a page and noticed that the diagrams for the carburettor include a 'coil spring' between the top cover and the diaphragm/air valve (Fig. 95, p. 56, item 15 in the owner's handbook, if you have a copy). I'm guessing the diagrams are generic for the CD150, in that the carb was used for different applications, so maybe some had this coil spring and some didn't. Point is, mine doesn't. Should it? While I'm here, none of the manuals seem to mention the 'spring-loaded pin' that lurks below the top of the carb, that can be used to check the mixture: am I right in thinking this only wants a light touch when in use, rather than being pushed up as far as it'll go? The same diagrams seem to show that its head actually pushes against the air valve when it's lifted. TIA
  4. Just wanted to share my recent experience and make a recommendation should any members be looking to get their engine tuned professionally. My MKIV Spitfire was running well although I always suspected it could run better. Although I had tried myself to set up the carbs I never managed to get them right as the various colourings of the spark plugs proved. I came across a rolling road centre in Alfreton, Derbyshire. Peter Burgess specialises in classic cars and in addition to offering the rolling road tune up service he also undertakes engine rebuilds, cylinder head refurbishment etc. After my Spitfire was "strapped in" Peter was quick to connect up his electronics and then took her for a run. He doesn't hang back and soon had her upto 85 mph and 4500 rpm. After a quick consultation with his laptop he identified that the carbs were not balanced and were running far too lean. The dash pots were removed and he was soon checking the needles. After every change made he went for another blast and checked the changes via his laptop. After about 80 minutes he was finished. The needles had been changed to get the carbs running richer. The SU's were finely balanced and the timing tweaked. I left with a car running so much sweeter with better acceleration from lower revs. The printout Peter provided me - copy uploaded - showed before and after performance and confirmed a max HP increase of 19%. Peter charges £80 for a standard session on the rolling road but this can be more or less depending on the work required. My session cost just £60 and it was worth that and more. Check out his services at www.peter-burgess.com .
  5. Hello All. An empty forum!! Excellent, that means I can ask dumb questions without being pointed to he archive. Though I might well be pointed to other places. Anyway, excuse the ignorance. We have late 1500 Spitfire (79) with very worn waxstat HS4 carbs. I want to rebuild these, and at the same time convert to standard jets. Can anyone identify the most economical source and part numbers for doing this? Rimmers do a rebuild kit and a conversion kit, but that works out V expensive. I think what I need is: Standard jet rebuild kit Standard jet bearings New needles (What is standard?) Choke-jet lifter link Choke-jet lifter crank Is anything else needed to do this conversion/rebuild? Should I aim to re-bush for the new throttle spindles? As I understand it, the HS4 spindles run straight in the body, but bushes can be fitted. Where can these bushes be obtained? I've seen an American source, but cannot find the size referenced from a UK supplier. Any other hints and tips? I know there is plenty of documentation available on SU carbs, but I have had difficulty identifying what applies generally, and what is specific to particular carb variants. e.g. the link arms and levers for the choke. Likewise, there appear to be 3 different jet bearings, but I haven't been able to identify the differences between them. Many thanks in anticipation. I hope that this form becomes a tight source for information. It appears that this is a good opportunity to collate the mountains of wisdom and experience. Cheers Foggers
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