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Found 4 results

  1. Hi all Thoughts please. I have an Accuspark distributor fitted to my GT6 and it works well. I’ve got one on my TR4 and it’s lasted well also. However, bought a spare for the GT6 as I’m doing the RBRR with Club triumph and have had to swap a distributor (old points one) on the event once before. Anyway, thought I’d do a trial fit with clamp and all so could quickly swap and the timing would be spot on. However on fitting I couldn’t get it timed properly because to get number 1 cylinder lined up I needed twist It so far clockwise the vacuum unit fouled the block. Looking at it realised that the key way in the distributor was not aligned with the end of the rotor arm. In my experience all my triumph engines have the rotor arm pointing at about 8 o clock for number 1 cylinder in line with the slot in the drive gear but on this distributor it was just beyond 9 o clock when slotted home in the drive which was at 8.00 o clock. I queried this with Accuspark and they said it’s quite common for them to be out of alignment and I should move all the plug leads around one so number 1 was at 9.00 o clock etc. This would work of course but it seems bit of a bodge and somewhat confusing compared to all the other distributors I’ve seen. The Accuspark already fitted has no 1 at 8 o clock. I was going to reply and tell him I wanted to send it back but just wondered if he got difficult, whether I was being awkward myself? welcome any thoughts Bob
  2. Variation on the theme... Dad gave me his 59 Herald recently, as he now can't get in and out of such a small car. It's had a few issues which I was working through. Rear wheel bearing, a bad habit of blowing head gaskets, seals on the convertible hood not staying put... I've been driving it to and from work over winter (on sunny-ish days) but eventually it became very hard to start then eventually it refused to start. Plenty of fuel - no spark. Poor spark out of the HT coil lead. Ok, either the coil or condenser has died. Replaced the condenser with a NOS one. Hot spark from the HT lead - great! Nothing at the plugs - not so great. Hmmm - only thing left is the distributor cap. Put a multimeter across the coil lead connector and the carbon brush - open circuit. There should be some resistance.... Carefully removed the brush and its spring as I didn’t want to stretch or damage it. The spring looked burnt, and the hole it sat in was black. After a squirt of WD40 in the hole and cleaning it out with a cotton bud I could see the metal the spring sat against. Cleaned the spring and brush and pushed it back. I used a flat punch to carefully push the brush until it actually clicked in place against the metal. I checked for continuity with the multimeter and I had a reading! I turned it over with all plug leads off and one aimed at No. 4 plug. Damn thing tried to start! Put it all back together and away she roared – well, as much as a 948cc engine can roar. It actually feels like I’ve gained a couple of HP. Moral of the story - when you have eliminated the obvious, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the problem. I guess the spark from the HT lead had to jump the gap to the brush spring and eventually created an insulator. I’ve had a brush spring break and a carbon brush crumble, but this was something new. Dad’s 82 and been mucking around with cars for most of that time and never had that problem. Live and learn... Cheers Rick
  3. I have an early mg prefix 2.5pi engine that I will be running on twin hif44 carbs with what I believe to be a tr6 distributor with no vac advance and was wondering if changing to the correct 2500pi distributor would be better or would the 2500s/tc distributor be a better suit as it's now running on carbs? The main reason being that it's unable to return more than 18mpg no matter how sensibly it is driven so I was thinking switch to a distributor with vacuum advance Any advice is appreciated Thanks Dan
  4. Hi guys, I have a question regarding the wiring on my 1972 Triumph GT6 MK3, and was wondering if anyone could help clear it up. I had a auto electrician come over a few days ago to help with the wiring who has worked on a GT6 before and couldn't get his head round the wiring set up which links the flamethrower oil to the distributor cap. I have included pictures of my current set up below. The engine turns over but doesn't run, this is due to there being no sparks on the spark plugs which tells me something isn't set up properly on the coil?? I may be wrong but if anyone can give me some advance on the wiring set up or send me pictures of their set up I would really appreciate it. Thanks! Jim.
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