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  1. Hi All looking for some parts to complete my herald. Would appreciate any help. One Piece Rear Taillight Trim (LH + RH) 948 Bonnet Moulding (Not handle) 948 Coupe Dash or Glove Boxlid 948 Coupe White Dials ( Speedo/Fuel - British Jaeger) - any condition. 948 or 1200 rear seat for convertible (top and bottom) Bonnet edge lip moulding Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  2. Hi all Me again ..... well I have started over again stripped the body off and started to sort out a leak from the diff. however I have a question. some time ago I bought a set of polybushes for the coupe (black ones) I have done the front with no problems. But at the rear the front diff mounting bushes seen to be very big compared to the rubber ones that I have just taken off. I know that the rubber ones will squash down somewhat when done up and over time with uses, but they were new Stanpart units when I put them in some 20 odd years ago and the car was never finished so had never driven. And there was no slaking on the fittings to indicate wear. If I put the new polybushes in as they are, would that not push the angel of the prop down (or up?) as the diff pivots on the rear mountings. So my question is should I take a bit off the new polybushes or not. And if so how much my thinking is if the rubber ones are made the squash down to give the tension, then that’s ok for the rubber ones , but I can not see that the polybush ones will squash down to give the same tension ant the same depth, if you see what I me. Any help would be very mush appreciated. when needs must and a swing is all you have!
  3. Can any one assist. Changing UJ on Herald drive shaft. Fitted the new one from the Club shop; plenty of swearing and the normal fun!. When mounted on the car with the suspension hanging the hub wont rotate fully. The "flange" on the spier that accepts the grease nibble seems to foul on the yoke. Is there a right or wrong way around? Mine is on the Diff side. With the suspension back under load the car rolls fine but worried it might foul if passing over a larger hump in the road!
  4. Hi Everyone. Triumph newbie here - proud new owner of a special built by my Uncle in 1970 and handed over to me last Saturday. I've always wanted to own this car ever since I saw it as a 5 year old, and now my dream has finally been realised! However, I have to admit, I've not done any significant work on any car since I changed the brake pads on my Citroen GSA in 1993, so I may well have to turn for help here, as I'm currently running a quite finely tuned 2 seater sports car with a modified 1300 Herald engine sporting a profiled cam and twin Weber carbs. Help! Interested in any events going on in the South, especially around the Brighton area, tips, hints and general advice welcome! Cheers, Dom
  5. Hi All Would anyone know if they make performance cam shafts for the 948 twin cam? Also would a cam for the 1200 fit? any advice would be appreciated. Best, Shane
  6. Hi folks, new member starting the search for a usable, four seater convertible (13/60 Herald or Vitesse). Need to fill two objectives, a new weekend/fun car (just sold my SLK 350) but also to tow behind our vintage motorhome that we had rebuilt by Airstream in the US and then imported. Hope to connect to others locally (we are in East Kent)as part of the info gathering before we take the plunge! - Martin and Denise
  7. Hi there, Apologies if this isn't the correct forum to post this request but, does anyone have an aluminium bell housing for a Herald 'box that they'd like to get rid of? If not, can anyone advise which other Triumph models might've had a compatible one fitted? Many thanks in advance, Barry
  8. A Herald made an appearance at the Lordship Arms, Benington classic meet yesterday evening:
  9. Hello My 1200 Herald is poor cold starter. It takes 3 or 4 attempts to get it to fire. Once started it runs ok but does seem to need a small amount of choke when driving in the cold. I try to start on full choke. once started and then turned off. It fires first time on subsequent starts. Starts well once warm. Any ideas how I can sort I have new fuel pump, thanks leads and distributor cap ready if needed. Other point of note my nephew cleaned the carb when I first got it over 4 years ago and said there was a missing ball bearing is this allowing fuel to drain from carb, hence need to get fuel in before it starts? Any Help appreciated thanks Andrew
  10. Hi. I'm a wannabe Herald owner and I am starting to look for my first Triumph classic. Are there any problems with Heralds that I should know about. Any bad rust points etc. Thanks guys.
  11. Hi there, I'm a newly passed driver (<3 months ago), and am looking at purchasing a first car. I have been saving up for a while, so am looking to spend about £2500 to £3000 on the car (a lovely little Herald 1200) and a bit £extra for insurance. Searching through forums I have found many stories from 2008 to 2013 of dirt cheap classic policies for new drivers, but recently this appears to have gone dry. I am very interested in an old car for the experience, not money saving - but as a student money is a big factor (luckily my dad can help with repairs). I have got a few quotes for £2000+ from Peter James and Adrian Flux, with some companies like Admiral not offering me a quote at all. Just wondered if there was anything I was missing other than being part of a car club / possibly adding my Dad with his 20+ years NCB and history of classic cars. I really appreciate any help you can give
  12. I'm getting close to that point where I can put the petrol tank back in my Herald, having had to replace both boot corners. Now getting it out was a faff, so I thought I would try a trial run before completing the paintwork in the boot, and I could not get it to fit. It kept hanging up on the fuel drain at the bottom rear of the tank. Do I need to remove the blanking screw from the drain spout in order to get it to fit? If that isn't the solution, is there a knack to get a tank back in without scratching the living daylights out of your paintwork? Thanks Karl
  13. As part of my prepping the Herald for its MoT I went to fit the newly refurbished passenger side seat belt, and having removed the inertia reel belt, which doesn’t seem to work worth a damn, noticed that there was corrosion around the lower mounting point. Having cut out the metal around the mounting, including the reinforcing plate behind the panel itself, I am trying to work out if the reinforcing plate is welded to the panel, or is it simply held in place by the seat belt bolt? Welding isn’t an issue, but I’ll need to weld the reinforcing panel to the repair section before I weld that as it’s all hidden behind the side rail, which will mean waiting another week while the reinforcing plates turn up and I get an opportunity to weld. Karl
  14. I’ve just put the fuel tank back in, but I’m really not sure this part is supposed to fit. It’s an L shaped piece about 4 inches long, that’s 10cm for those of you watching from Europe, with a hole for the tank drain. It sits over the fuel tank drain spout, but how it fits with relation to the boot floor and the sealing bung I can neither fathom nor remember. The WSM doesn’t mention it, and no drawings I have seen show it. How is it supposed to fit? Thanks in advance. Karl
  15. Triumph Herald 1200 brochure showing dealer address for L A Noviss of Wantage by Stephen Weblin, on Flickr I found this whilst searching for Triumph car dealer info. Triumph Herald 1200 brochure with dealer address stamp for L A Noviss Motor Engineers of Childrey, Wantage in Berkshire UK. Would love hear or see more about this business can you help?
  16. Put it on Car and Classic. 1962 two tone red/white with a sun roof but would prefer a Triumph enthusiast to own it. It's in Shropshire, and in good shape & can be driven away, in case anybody is looking. Good starter classic. regards. awind269
  17. The fuel pump on my 1969 Herald 13/60 is not pumping any fuel. Is the best option simply to buy a replacement pump, or to try and rebuild it with a spares kit? Thanks.
  18. As some of you know I am currently rebuilding the back end of my Herald 1200 after discovering a serious lack of metal around the chassis mounts and the lower quarter panel which sits behind the side valance. I have cut out the bulk of the offending metalwork, but have hit a snag. Here's the back of the car as it currently stands. And here is the replacement quarter panel. My problem is the part of the panel that sits behind the light panel, which is in turn sandwiched between the light panel and the boot corner reinforcing piece. Do I cut the repair panel to fit the car as is, and seam weld the panel where it would normally sit between the other panels? Or, do I have to remove the reinforcing piece to gain access to in turn remove the remnants of the old quarter panel? Has anyone else done this? If how did you do it? Thanks Karl
  19. Hi all I have just gone to replace the thermostat on the 1147 1965 Herald, firstly I found there isn't one fitted, so, fitted one to very quickly find out why there wasn't one fitted!! I now understand that the early 1200's didn't have a temperature gauge installed so this one has had a modified thermostat housing installed with a temp sender unit in the top, trouble is, the gauge intrudes so much that the housing wont go back on with a thermostat in there! Anybody had a similar issue? I'm wondering if there is anywhere I can get a shorter gauge to fit or alternatively, if I install a standard housing, would I have to install a later water pump housing to get a gauge on or is there any other way? As always, many thanks in advance for any advise. Regards Gary
  20. Hi guys A few tips if you don't mind as I'm sure some of you must have had the issue! LITTLE BIT OF BACKGROUND: 1147 Herald which I got back on the road 500 miles ago has been running perfectly as I have gradually increased the distances, speeds and time of trips. slightly longer trip last week on the M way so higher speeds than normal and a longer trip, all went well, nice smooth running. ISSUE: Once off the motorway,car started stalling when pulling up so no tick-over every time I pulled up. After a couple of roadside stops and some tinkering with the volume adjuster and tick-over screw, all was back to normal and the trip back was as smooth as the one out. I have taken the car out this week and instantly, the tick-over issue has returned and the car running generally rough. ACTIONS SO FAR Checked compression's, all good Re-adjusted the tick-over and volume adjusters Replaced soiled fuel filter Replaced (very soiled) air filter (which also smelt very fuel rich) Adjusted timing which appeared to be slightly out Removed & cleaned carb mixture jet Checked points gap Checked plugs gaps (rich deposits on plugs) CURRENT SITUATION: Tick-over now good when warmed up and choke pushed full in ISSUE: Car is now very under-powered compared to previously, particularly at the higher speed end, 50mph, doesn't want to go any higher with foot flat to the floor and it was slow getting to that point. OBSERVATIONS: Some back-firing and carb popping when accelerating and slowing Temperature good and stead Oil pressure good Vacuum same as previously was NEXT STEPS: Any thoughts welcome guys and gals but do you think I'm right to be looking at: Carburettor Fuel delivery Re-looking at the timing Like I say, any assistance, thoughts, ideas very much welcome. All the best Gary
  21. Hi All Thought I would start a thread to document the build of my 948 convertible . It's my first Triumph. If any kind and I will definitely need some advice and help as I go along. So thought this would be the perfect place. A quick recap on the purchase - I found the car over two years ago - one owner for over 40yeara - ex race car driver here in Sri Lanka and the car was raced for many years in the 70s and 80s. During that time the cars body had been modified quite a bit and at some point a make shift roof was fitted along the way I have attached a few pictures of how I found the car. Long story short I checked the registration and the numbers seem to match - a quick email to the heritage trust in the U.K. Confirmed that it was a original 948 convertible. Extremely chuffed about that I picked it up immediately. Car has been in storage for the past year as I was traveling for work but we have started work for the past new months.
  22. Hi All Greetings from Sri Lanka! I recently picked up a bit of a rough restoration project a 1960 Herald 948 Convertible. The car is currently is storage and i hope to start the restoration of it soon. This is my first triumph of any sort and looking for some advice and guidance with the restoration project - as an convertible herald is quite a rare thing in Sri Lanka - and i want to do the restoration justice. The car has had a rough life - with it being raced around a few hill climbs in the 70's and 80's and being subject to a few body modifications along the way - including a home made hard top. Will upload pictures soon. Hope to pick you brains on the bits and bobs as we go along. best, Shane
  23. I bought my Herald last year and returned it home to the UK from Germany. It is fitted with LHD headlamp lenses (see pic) and I need to change these. I'm looking for advice..... Should I upgrade them to halogen? There seems to be quite a lot of choice. Can anyone recommend anything ? Thanks in advance, Berty
  24. Just thought I'd share a slight mod my mate Rob came up with for the bonnet Catch on my 13/60. My latest Herald suffered from the classic "Bonnet catch pops open when going along" syndrome. In order to prevent this we have angle grinded a small radius on the catch for the roller to sit it - this holds it much better and prevents it popping open (see pic) Don't go too mad with the grinder though otherwise you'll never get the bonnet open again ! The purists may not approve, but my bonnet has not popped open for the last year so I'm very pleased. Cheers... Berty
  25. Hi Just joined TSSC and was hoping for some advice please. My herald 1200 1963 convertible driver door is out of alignment in that the top part is further away than the bottom. The car has a bit of tub spread that I have improved and this is the worst alignment issue I cannot resolve. The door needs to slammed shut hard and can be difficult to open as I guess it is catching on the striker plate. I've had the car 3 years and have regularly driven it but want to improve it now and get involved in the TSSC community. Thanks to anyone who can give me advice. Andrew
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