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  1. Slightly hypothetical question. Is it easy to remove and refit the dash on a 1977 1500 Spitfire? The only reason I ask is that having found a template for the dash I was considering getting my Dad to make me a new one as the current one is, well actually fine as it goes, but looks like ply thats been varnished. My Dad was a woodwork master and cabinet maker in his spare time and since retirement has been doing more antique restoration - and I mentioned it to him and he has all the materials required to do a new one - with many different options for the veneer. Everything from Walnut, Elm, Oak Blackbean some are also in Burr some not!
  2. I’ve bought a mocol thermostatically controlled oil cooler for my spitfire 1500 now I know I probably don’t need one but let’s not go there. question is, does anyone have any pictures and advice as to how to fit it - pictures would be great as it comes with no instructions what so ever!
  3. I am considering self-restoring my 1977 Triumph Spitfire 1500 (North American model). The first hurdle I've encountered is a rusted frame at the junction of the rear cross member and left rear strut under the trunk (which I don't think is found on European models). Replacing the frame may be necessary. Does anyone know how interchangeable Spitfire frames are for models of different years or where to find that information? Thanks for any help you can provide.
  4. Morning all! My first post on the forum!! I am looking for an FC prefix 1147cc engine for a Mk2 Spitfire, can anyone point me in the direction of where I might find one? (GA/GD prefix would also work) I am based in Guildford, but happy to drive all over, I once drove to Blackburn for some other bits... Any help would be greatly appreciated! Cheers, Henry
  5. Wanting to take advantage of the lockdown and the good weather, I decided to attack some of the (hopefully) superficial rust on my Spitfire Mk3. While I knew the sills needed some attention along the seams, I decided to turn first attention to the dashboard top/scuttle where the windscreen frame rests on the scuttle. Rust was clearly bubbling out from under the windscreen frame seal. Having removed the windscreen frame it became obvious that a previous repair has included the addition of copious amounts of silicon sealant at the rear edge of the seal - as opposed to the front edge.. where it might have at least impeded the ingress of some water. I've cleared away the sealant and there is evidence of some (fairly professionally applied) filler in the scuttle already from an earlier repair. However, creeping rust has eaten into the scuttle and created a few small (<5mm) holes in the metal. So, how acceptable to clean up the rust, slightly enlarge the holes to remove some more of the rust, apply rust treatment, fill and repaint? I've already applies Kurust to the affected areas before I proceed further. The holes are just to the door-side of the left hand screen wiper shaft and normally concealed by the windscreen frame seal, and access underneath is somewhat limited - even with the glove box removed. Should I consider applying some fibre-glass support under the scuttle before starting on filling above. I'd quite like to avoid a 'minor' body repair becoming a major headache. I thought that there may already be a thread on this somewhere, but couldn't find one. Was I just looking in the wrong place? Thanks for any constructive feedback that anyone might have, I am sure this must be a common problem. Maybe I need to turn my attention to the sills for now and see what nightmare awaits me there. Thanks.. Graham
  6. Hi, I am midway through my complete resto of my 1973 GT6 MK3. I am planning to paint the chassis the same colour as the body (Mimosa Yellow) as I am under the impression this is how they were from factory. What is the best sort of transparent protection I can use over the top of this (if necessary) whilst preserving the yellow topcoat (I was thinking lacquer or something similar). I am keen to avoid underseal/waxoyl (this will obviously cover the mimosa yellow) other than injecting into the chassis box sections. The car won’t be drive as a daily runner so I think stone chips will be the biggest problem. However I want to be sensible as well so am open to whatever if it is the right thing. Has anyone done similar where they have kept the chassis the same colour as the body and was the topcoat paint enough to keep it protected or would you advise something else? Hope this makes sense Thanks
  7. Hi, So my next naive question is about the carburetor settings when you have a sports exhaust fitted to a Mk2 1966 Spitfire? My new restored Spitfire has a brand new stainless steel twin sports exhaust fitted. Now we're trying to tune the engine to get it to run a bit smoother, I noticed, by accident, in the Rimmers Parts book for the Spitfire that it says that if you have a sports exhaust fitted to will need to tune the carburetor accordingly and possibly fit new needles. I was wondering if anyone had fitted a sports exhaust and then made any carb adjustments? Any advice most welcome Cheers, Kevin
  8. Hi Guys, My first post here, I’ll be posting the restoration progress so far up here soon. I’m restoring a 1966 triumph spitfire. Irish built car and I cannot figure out the correct original colour. I have a good sample of it behind the dashboard and the paint is metallic green. Is anyone aware of a light/medium metallic green from triumph from this time period? So far, my best guess is the green found on the Aston Martin Zagato. The commission tag says 1 for the paint code. I am not sure if this is the original tag or has been replaced and the number copied wrongly. BMH cannot provide original specification as records weren't kept for Irish built cars. If it is not a standard Triumph paint colour, is anyone aware of how triumph would mark these commission number plates? If anyone has any info or opinions that’d be greatly appreciated
  9. Hi everyone, I'm looking for a radio for my Spitfire Mk3 (1968 year). Any suggestions? Where to buy? etc..... Thank you !
  10. Hello folks, Firstly hello, I'm Jim from Chester. Just signed up here as my Godmother has given me hopefully a very early inheritance present of an original condition 77 Spitfire 1500 she's owned since 1980. She's now 82 and just downsized to a retirement flat with no garage and someone has the tough job of looking after the Spitfire which will be me. I'm in need of an accurate valuation for insurance purposes initially and any willing sponsors to fund tidying it up 🙂 Can anyone kindly recommend where I can get a good valuation please? Many thanks Jim
  11. I'm looking for the current whereabouts of a red, 1964 Mark 1, registration number BRU 566B. I wonder if anyone on here can help? I have a photo of me with the car - my father's car at the time - probably taken at the end of November 1964 or early 1965. My father has recently died and I'd love to see this car again. I believe the car is still in the UK (I'm in southern England).
  12. Hi, my Mk2 Spitfires total rebuild is nearing completion. I was discussing the doors locks with one of the guys doing most of the work, his view is not to bother fitting door locks, we've had two new outer doors skins so they would need holes drilled out etc, as they tend to not always work properly, and if anyone wants to break in they will just slash open the roof. He suggests fitting a Thatchem alarm instead. What do people think? Cheers, Kevin
  13. After my run out yesterday, I checked the temperature around the engine with my IR temperature probe. Specifically around the sump and bottom of the engine. I know oil has to be hotter than the water in the engine so that any moisture gets driven out - but what temperature should it be? I was reading over 100'C (107-110) at the sump in places - though the bottom of the sump was slightly lower than 100 - the top hose was around 85'C I discounted the temperature on the exhaust manifold side at nearly 150 on account its proximity! This was after a 15-20 mile run at upto 70mph on a dual carriage way but the last 5miles was between 30 and 40 due to the speed limit, so I assume would have cooled down slightly?
  14. In my ongoing bid to rid my 1975 Spitfire 1500 of the noises it shouldn't be making, I've moved on to the rattling noise that's coming from the fuel tank. It's quite unpleasant and seems to resonate at certain engine/ road speeds. I've had the sender unit out, and you can knock the tank and the rattle is still there, so it's not the sender. I'm wondering if it's the fuel pick up pipe touching the inside of the tank, or the nut not being tightened enough, allowing the olive on the pipe to vibrate in its seating, which I'm going to check over the weekend. The thing that confuses me slightly is that, according to the parts drawings I've seen, the pipe appears to be in two parts, the straight part inside the tank, and the shorter pipe with the 90 degree bend on the top of the tank. This seems strange to me, shouldn't it be just one pipe? Can anyone enlighten me? Thanks, Simon
  15. You may have read my post about holiday disaster. I've now got the car running. But the 1st time I tried to select reverse the lever just swings round to the right as though there is no reverse gate . If I'm carefull I can find the reverse gate but the gears grind a little before engaging. I think the breakdown people must have forced something trying to find reverse . Any ideas of what I need to look for ? Is there a stop that could've been broken , or linkage problem? This is single rail , I really have had enough of this experience.
  16. Some advice please. I'm looking to fit a set of inertia seat belts into my Mk2 Spitfire. I have two fixing points at the moment, rear wheel arch and transmission tunnel. I obviously need a two more fixing points , I guess somewhere on the floor behind the seat near the door for the one and a second on the rear wheel arch? . If I do this I'd need some sort of spreading plate on the floor pan and inside the wheel arch to bolt to? Does anyone have any advice or pics as to the best place to fit and how please? Any thoughts most welcome, thank you.
  17. Hi Everyone. Triumph newbie here - proud new owner of a special built by my Uncle in 1970 and handed over to me last Saturday. I've always wanted to own this car ever since I saw it as a 5 year old, and now my dream has finally been realised! However, I have to admit, I've not done any significant work on any car since I changed the brake pads on my Citroen GSA in 1993, so I may well have to turn for help here, as I'm currently running a quite finely tuned 2 seater sports car with a modified 1300 Herald engine sporting a profiled cam and twin Weber carbs. Help! Interested in any events going on in the South, especially around the Brighton area, tips, hints and general advice welcome! Cheers, Dom
  18. I have a 1972 Spitfire, restored by a PO about 10 years ago, the drive shaft UJ's replaced some 8 years ago, some 3000 miles of travel since then. In the last couple of years the car has developed a rear end knocking noise that is relational to road speed. Only noticeable at low speeds and mostly appears once car has run a mile or so. I have not been able to trace it. I have a tame professional mechanic who had his own garage with years of experience with classic cars. He has not been able to trace it, mind you it seems to dissappear for a few miles once he has had his hands on checking the rear end. He tells me not to worry, old cars have rattles and knocks. I still drive it but am concerned that it will reveal itself when something brakes. My question to the forum is whether there is something about the Spitfire rear end drive geometry that could mask worn UJs or UJ float from such a mechanic? He is very experienced with Minis. Has restored cars and at least one GT6 so does know his stuff. I am going to get him to do my pre-season safety check soon, so are there any suggestions the forum could give me to pass on. I have waded through this topic reading all the knocking stories! The one that seems most likely is whether it needs wider gauge clips to stop end float.
  19. After having trouble with after market sender units I finally got what I think is an original . It looks the right design came in a box and has Wipec marked on it. However when I fitted it ,in I hope the only position it will go, an empty tank still reads 1/3 full. I realise I can bend the arm slightly to set this or it might be catching somewhere. But I can fit it with the arm and float either behind or in front of the petrol feed pipe going to the outlet of the tank . Any advice on which side it should be would be welcome.
  20. I WILL BE FITTING A REVOTEC ELECTRIC FAN KIT TO SPITFIRE 1500, THEY SUGGEST PLACING THE TEMPERATURE SENOR IN THE BOTTOM HOSE. TO ME THIS SOUNDS A GOOD IDEA AS YOU ARE THEN MONITORING THE COOLED WATER TEMP. BUT I SEE THAT MOST PICTURES I'VE SEEN OF PEOPLES CARS WITH E FANS THEY'VE PUT THE SENSOR IN THE TOP HOSE. IT HAS AN ADJUSTABLE HEAT RANGE SO I SUPPOSE I CAN SET TO A TEMP I'M HAPPY WITH . WOULD BE INTERESTED IN PEOPLES OPINIONS..
  21. Hi all, Curious to see whose going to Spa Classics? Is it a big number drawing event for the club? And is it a worth while little trip? All the best, Sam 😋
  22. Hi there guys, As said I’m looking for a original slatted boot rack for my Spitfire 1500 as I’m planning on a blat too France and want to carry some extra fuel and luggage. I’ve searched high and low and haven’t been able to find one, I know they exist but not sure if they were intended for the American market hence my struggle. Any leads would be appreciated. Thanks, Sam
  23. Hey everyone, thought I’d introduce myself as I’ve recently got my hands on a Spitfire. Having had a Daimler XJ40 and MX-5 mk2 (race prepped) beforehand. Already covered just over 600 miles in her having bought it back in January as my new year resolution..whoops. Have had the diff rebuilt and the carbs. Is running the original drive train and the original engine, having had a cosmetic restoration in 2012. Anyway, more to come no doubt! But for now have these naughty little pics.. Cheers, Sam
  24. Hello all! I bought my spitfire 1500 when I was 20, almost 4 years ago now! I joined the club after meeting them at the Classic Car show at the NEC in November. Since getting the car I've leant a lot about how to look after it properly. I've undertaken quite a lot of tasks including: rebuilding the alternator, replacing the hood, replacing the brake and clutch cylinders, getting the radiator refurbished, and lots of painting (under seats, the entire boot area, and underneath the master cylinders) My most recent project is a full engine rebuild! As with everything I've done so far, this is the first time doing such a task. I've learnt a lot so far, and I'm sure I've got a lot more to learn! I was hoping to find out if any other members of the club knew of anywhere in the Gloucestershire area where I could get my Crankshaft reground, and the valves hardened so I can run it on unleaded fuel. Any advice on the engine rebuild, and anything else for that matter would be warmly welcomed! Nathan
  25. I didn't know where to put this, hope "General" is ok! Hey guys, While refitting the dials after changing my dash the speedo drive extended out from it's plastic casing, I managed to get it back in a little way but there's still a gap, see picture attached. It now doesn't seem to want to push back into the casing any further, has anyone come across this before? I'm hoping the answer isn't "get a new cable" because it looks like a right arse of a job! Thanks all, Simon
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