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Found 5 results

  1. Hi All, I have replaced the standard temperature heat gauge with a combined oil and heat as per picture. The original gauge needle only got to exactly the same place as you can see in the picture on the new gauge (the original being the electrical one and the new one being capillary). I assume that as both are reading the same they are both OK and correct (it would seem to be a bizarre coinsdence if both read wrong). I have checked and it seems to be fitted with the standard 82c thermostat, question is, should I change to an 88c thermostat to see if I can get the needle to mid position where it should be ? The 1500 has been fitted with a wide radiator so cools better, but I don't think that's why it won't get hotter as the stat controls release temp from the head to the rad. The engine runs fine, I just want to see what would happen if I can get the needle to the mid position, I presume it will better running at nominal temp rather than a tad lower as at present. Any thoughts ?
  2. Just thought I'd share my experiences. I've just put a GT6 mk2 back on the road. It's running on a late Mk3 engine. Despite idling happily without overheating as soon as I drove it, the temperature gauge started rising in to the red. The engine was flushed with all sorts (including Fernox) but vey little crud came out from flushing and the drain at the rear of the block refused to do anything but dribble slightly (despite, bits of wire wiggling etc). The heater was lukewarm at best (although did help a bit to cool the engine if on full with the fan blowing). In the end bit the bullet, took off the cylinder head and after protecting cylinders etc with cloths, had a good go at cleaning out the rear of the block. Not surprisingly full of crud and scale. It didn't take too long and had it cleared out and running clear with water. The head was also pretty gummed up so treated that to a flush with phosphoric acid (40% strength bought off ebay). This latter substance is somewhat controversial - John D swears it wont work (only read his posts after buying it on someone else's recommendation). Anyway, it fizzed away for a few days and cleaned up things a treat. As the head was off I was sure I could rinse it out thoroughly so decided to risk it. Cleaned up the head, lapped the valves, got a new gasket and put it all back together. Far more hassle changing a diff. All working well, engine now not overheating, rear drain working perfectly. Heater is proper hot (not necessary I gather in a GT6 but nice to see it can work as expected). Moral of (my) story. Bite the bullet, don't arse about flushing and re flushing. Don't replace all manner of items (bought a very nice aluminium rad which I'm sure I don't need but then it does reduce a bit of weight up front!), water pump etc. Chances are your overheating issue is a cruddy block (especially if the drain doesn't work) and you may as well have a go at sorting it. Bob
  3. I WILL BE FITTING A REVOTEC ELECTRIC FAN KIT TO SPITFIRE 1500, THEY SUGGEST PLACING THE TEMPERATURE SENOR IN THE BOTTOM HOSE. TO ME THIS SOUNDS A GOOD IDEA AS YOU ARE THEN MONITORING THE COOLED WATER TEMP. BUT I SEE THAT MOST PICTURES I'VE SEEN OF PEOPLES CARS WITH E FANS THEY'VE PUT THE SENSOR IN THE TOP HOSE. IT HAS AN ADJUSTABLE HEAT RANGE SO I SUPPOSE I CAN SET TO A TEMP I'M HAPPY WITH . WOULD BE INTERESTED IN PEOPLES OPINIONS..
  4. Hi all I have just gone to replace the thermostat on the 1147 1965 Herald, firstly I found there isn't one fitted, so, fitted one to very quickly find out why there wasn't one fitted!! I now understand that the early 1200's didn't have a temperature gauge installed so this one has had a modified thermostat housing installed with a temp sender unit in the top, trouble is, the gauge intrudes so much that the housing wont go back on with a thermostat in there! Anybody had a similar issue? I'm wondering if there is anywhere I can get a shorter gauge to fit or alternatively, if I install a standard housing, would I have to install a later water pump housing to get a gauge on or is there any other way? As always, many thanks in advance for any advise. Regards Gary
  5. Hello, last summer after a very slow hot drive on the M25 my radiator over boiled as I arrived at my destination. On further investigation I found the fuse housing had melted on my kenlow fan, and it was no longer working. following morning I topped up the radiator and i noticed steam escaping the radiator core once warm, and the fan did not respond despite new fuse, and housing. I decided to flush the system with a rad weld cleaner before using rad weld to try and resolve the leak a couple of months later and refit my old mechanical fan. The car has been stranded at my parents, so I'm tinkering with it once ever 3 months at the moment. Anyhow, I ran the car yesterday, and after 10 minutes or so, just before I was about to switch it off to drain the cleaner, I noticed coolant escaping from the weephole under the water pump. i'm certain the car was not over heating at this point, anyway I switched it off immediately. I didn't see any steam from the core this time. And it wasn't steam, but water from the weep hole. What do people suggest I do next? Dave.
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