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Found 4 results

  1. Hello, i have seized oil drain plugs on the engine and diff and the oil fill plug on the gearbox. The car is a 1971 1300 Spitfire that hasn’t run for 22 years. It is now running and I want to change the diff and gearbox oil. The engine has been solved by a vacuum pump through the dip stick tube but I am stuck with the diff and gearbox. I have been using a 7/16” spanner and a hammer along with plus gas but no effect so far. I have also tried a bit of heat from a blow torch. I have been looking for 8 point sockets but cannot find the right size in the uk. Can anyone advise how best to loosen the plug. Does anyone have experience with one of the universal sockets? thanks, Jeff.
  2. I'd appreciate latest thinking and advice / recommendations for oil for the differential (also gearbox / overdrive). Many thanks -
  3. Would be so grateful for some advice on this. Concerns my Triumph Spitfire 1500 (1977). Getting a noise as the title suggests - not a rhythmical, consistent knocking sound, it's a more random crunching/clattering sound which doesn't seem to be related to speed/particular gears/cornering/braking. I expected to find something loose getting caught up in the drivetrain somewhere, like you would expect a bag of bolts going round and round one of the rotating parts to sound, but again there's nothing immediately obvious visually. Really baffled. I've ruled out UJs, wheel bearings and prop shaft. The diff would be the obvious candidate but it's already been reconditioned (by a specialist firm) recently after becoming worn and producing the classic rhythmic knocking sound. The guy who reinstalled the diff (mechanic relation of mine) assures me that he doesn't believe this NEW noise is coming from there. But after poking around he is talking about checking the leaf spring first and seeing if anything stems from that, but I just can't see how a rotational sort of noise could be anything do do with the leaf spring or suspension... I fully agree there may be another noise coming from the suspension at the moment, but I think it's two separate issues. Can anyone advise on the right course of action before I go on an expensive wild goose chase?! If anyone is near Eastbourne and thinks they might be able to lend an expert opinion, let me know! Or if anyone recommends a specialist near Eastbourne that could also be very helpful. Cheers Ben
  4. right finally rejoined, now i can annoy folk on here instead of facebook again! 1971 gt6 mk2 rotoflex with rover V8 and 5 speed box - weak link is the diff. trying to avoid putting the subaru one in that is sat on garage shelf. So as some of you know I ejected the rear of my diff out the back of the car a while ago, got a temporary diff and now finally took that out to begin (some kind) of rebuild. Both are now stripped on the bench leaving just the pinion in each. What I have: - my 'original' 3.89 ratio GT6 six bolt housed diff with front large castle nut - so I have a solid spacer. - It has large carrier bearings and a very nice tight but smooth differential in it with copper shims - the rear housing as said was shattered by a pinion tooth wedging under crown wheel - so I have another 6 bolt tail I will use. - My pinion has lost one of its baby teeth but the CW looks okay. - This diff WAS nice and quiet. The temporary diff - is the holy grail 3.63 but with a spitfire front bracket, 4 bolt rear case, and a shallower nylock front nut - so it should be a collapse spacer. - it has smaller carrier bearings and the differential is sloppy with approx 0.8mm of play moving a single gear in/out - The crown wheel has a bit of burring at the edge of the troughs of about 7 teeth and a scored line on the edge of the wheel (not the teeth) of the same number of teeth. - This diff whines on load of acceleration or deceleration. Any advice at this point is appreciated. I cant afford to get the diff sorted by someone brilliant so as neither owes me anything I wish to try myself to make a tough (as possible diff with what I have. This is what I think i should do: 1. use my GT6 front housing 2. use my spare 6 bolt rear case (tapped for a drain plug) 3. use the 3.63 CWP matched set (even thought potentially still noisy) 4. use my solid spacer (doing all the difficult pre-load and shimming i know will need doing) **** Can you use a solid spacer on a pinion that uses a collapse spacer?? **** 5. Use my gt6 carrier with the larger bearings 6. replace all seals and bearings. Questions: 1. will the solid spacer go on the pinion off the other diff? (solid is a stronger) 2. are the output shafts stronger on the gt6 diff? (the shafts look the same but the spitty one has sealed bearings) 3. I'd read that the later (TR7 4 speed) carriers were stronger, but are they stronger than my gt6 one? Thank you everyone :-)
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