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Found 2 results

  1. Hi all Thoughts please. I have an Accuspark distributor fitted to my GT6 and it works well. I’ve got one on my TR4 and it’s lasted well also. However, bought a spare for the GT6 as I’m doing the RBRR with Club triumph and have had to swap a distributor (old points one) on the event once before. Anyway, thought I’d do a trial fit with clamp and all so could quickly swap and the timing would be spot on. However on fitting I couldn’t get it timed properly because to get number 1 cylinder lined up I needed twist It so far clockwise the vacuum unit fouled the block. Looking at it realised that the key way in the distributor was not aligned with the end of the rotor arm. In my experience all my triumph engines have the rotor arm pointing at about 8 o clock for number 1 cylinder in line with the slot in the drive gear but on this distributor it was just beyond 9 o clock when slotted home in the drive which was at 8.00 o clock. I queried this with Accuspark and they said it’s quite common for them to be out of alignment and I should move all the plug leads around one so number 1 was at 9.00 o clock etc. This would work of course but it seems bit of a bodge and somewhat confusing compared to all the other distributors I’ve seen. The Accuspark already fitted has no 1 at 8 o clock. I was going to reply and tell him I wanted to send it back but just wondered if he got difficult, whether I was being awkward myself? welcome any thoughts Bob
  2. Hi all, trying to sort a misfire out on my Gt6 mk1. Initially I thought it was the coil, had a good read of the posts on here, and thought I’d covered everything. So open to suggestions really. it happens when hot, on a day like today, car starts to lose power, eventually coughing, spluttering and finally backfiring when under load. Let it cool down all fine again for a bit. I’ve looked at the ballast situation, looked at my wiring and no obvious signs of ballast resistor or wire, straight forward white/red from starter to fuse board, white to coil from ignoition. No pink flecks or white and yellow wires so have assumed not ballast. Changed to a good quality coil of 4.5ohm, same imp as rubbish inter motor one that was on there ( on local tuners advice, it’s the only one he had! ) changed back to points and condenser, to check the module, still got the problem? I’ve assumed it’s not fuel as I’ve had this problem before and you don’t get all the backfiring ‘popping’ stuff with the power drop. The engine has only covered a few thousand miles since rebuild, but the only thing I didn’t touch was the distributor. It does appear to have a slightly wobbly base plate, I was considering replacing with an complete electronic unit from the club shop if the module was found faulty, but I don’t think that’s the problem as the points proved. Was planning to take it to SEM next weekend, but not looking to hopeful at the moment. ☹️ As always any help appreciated. Thanks hag
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