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Found 2 results

  1. One of the car's radius arm brackets had sheared on my rotoflex GT6. I supposed I could simply remove the existing bracket and fit new. As many with more experience will know, that was a vain hope. I therefore took off the hubs and in doing so, realised the rotoflexes were a bit cracked so decided to go the whole hog and rebuild the lot. Before I did this, I looked in depth at all the posts on here and elsewhere and they were very helpful and, when you get your head around how it all works and fit's together, its a logical, if slightly time consuming job. The purpose of this post is to point out a few issues I had and perhaps fill in some of the gaps in what I could find on the web. Getting the drive shafts off is pretty straightforward but you really need a spring lifter to do this. One man job. You also need to jack up the hub as well as the spring to get the spring eye bolt out easily - there is a sweet spot of alignment that a combination of the two produces it seems. I used a decent sized trolley jack under the lift and a smaller trolley under the hub/vertical link (see later for reassembly) Getting out the radius arm bracket bolt than runs through the hub is impossible without a press (or it was for me and countless others). I ended up giving them to my friendly local garage and it took him 5 mins and cost a bottle of wine. He told me that he put it on a press, applied pressure then heated it and they slipped out. I got 2 new brackets from what used to be Jigsaw on Ebay. The wishbone bolts came out fine and replaced with polybush from Paddocks. Fitted ok but supplied with 4 washers. I assumed one at each end and one at either inside end of the bushes but could not get those two in. In the end loft them off. Long bolts all treated to copper slip. Rotoflexes genuine from Robush - there is a thread on here about that. One of the reasons I rebuilt the hubs was because I didn't trust the previous restorer. It turned out that on one drive shaft the threaded end had been shortened and thus the nut was no where near fully engaged (presumably stripped it trying to put it together without a press). I had to buy a replacement near side vertical link (completely mullered - as was the wishbone - presumably trying to get it off). There was only a spacer and no shims on the shaft so not certain end float was correct. One of the hubs had seen better days so bit bullet and bought 2 new ones from Canleys (far cheaper than Rimmers). I pulled the hubs with the TSSC hub puller. I'm glad I had one as not sure if a normal three legged putter would have done it (a lot of people say it should but I was glad of the heftier item). The new hubs were far tighter on the shaft than the old ones. I found it impossible to get them fully on the shaft without using a press (only needed a couple of tons). Doing the job without a press would have been impossible for me and it certainly helps as you need to put it together and pull it apart a few times. It also means you don't knacker the driveshaft threads by using them to pull everything into place. In terms of shimming the hub, there is loads of helpful stuff on line. I used the Canley method but I found it hard getting an accurate measure using feelers. It looked like I didn't need spacers but on assembly and checking against the back plate with a dial gauge I ended up with a spacer. I found it confusing the talk of inner/ outer races and bearing cups etc. However, basically you need to fit the cups and bearings and then press through the hub to check the measurement. One point to remember is not to mix up your backplates! I did and had to take is all apart. Doh! The Canley end nuts and washers were a good investment (see another thread on this). Putting it back together was ok once I lined up the two jacks as noted above. At one point the angles are just right so you can slip a bolt through (a tap or two on the top of the link may be needed to get it all aligned) No brute force needed but I did need to get the car low enough a the rear to get enough lift on the spring (I have a hydraulic ramp). The other option would be to stand the spring lifting trolley jack on blocks. All in all, not as bad a job as is made out in my experience. The trickiest bit is the shimming and I would invest in a press if I didn't have one. Bob
  2. Please will one of you kind souls either tell me where to get the rotoflex hub end float setting spacers (not the 0.003” shims) from or, tell me the inside and outside diameters, and I’ll get some made. Part #’s 152483 to 7 in the attached image. Thank you.
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