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Found 24 results

  1. Hi all first time posting here. I have a Vitesse 6 that runs fine at low RPMs (up to 3.5K) or when cold. Once the car warms up or the revs exceed 3.5k or so the car develops an aggressive misfire/ splutteing and refuses to rev any higher. The misfiring continues to get worse as the car warms up to operating temperature, eventually causing it to stall even under no load at idel. To try and diagnose this issue: I have set the timing at idle with a timing lamp to 10° BTDC. Both the mechanical and vacuum advance work. I’ve also checked the mixture on the carbs (Stromberg 150CD without emission control); with the lifting pin, the revs increase briefly and then go below idle speed, but the misfire still persists. To see if the misfiring was caused by a lean mixture; whilst the car was misfiring I pulled out the choke, but this only made it splutter harder. Checking if the misfiring was caused by a rich mixture I made the mixture intentionally lean but this had no impact on resolving the misfire. I then moved onto the plugs, I found that they were sooty so I cleaned the soot off but the problem still persisted so I retried making the mixture richer or leaner, but had similar results. Thinking the problem was fuel related I took apart the fuel pump to see if the diaphragm or valves were clearly damaged, they weren’t. I have also checked the operation of the fuel pump when hot by lifting the priming lever, but fuel still came out of the pump. I then checked if fuel was getting into the bowls, expecting it to be a vapour lock issue on the carbs I removed the brass mixture adjuster on the bottom, there was plenty of fuel in the bowls, which were also cold. I then wondered if the misfire was caused by some kind of blockage between the fuel tank and pump so I ran the car off a fuel cell that used the cars mechanical fuel pump but the problem still persist. I then wondered if the problem was caused by a head gasket failure (at this point I’m clutching at straws) but there wasn’t any oil in the radiator or water in the oil. At this point I am stumped so would appreciate any help from anyone.
  2. Hello, anybody interested in knowing about my puma powered spitfire . Just completed. I have put a 1.7 variable valve engine in a spit just to see if I could do it. All work done by myself. Still testing but mot'ed and road going. Its a standard 1.7 125 hp puma engine. Fabricated exhaust, intake and mountings, rx8 5 speed box with the only thing I had made by someone else being the propshaft and conversion plate to marry the engine to the gearbox. Its running a standard ecu with pre and after lamba sensors. Wheels are 16 inch mgtf 11 spokes with uprated studs. Adjustable gas suspension. This is going to be rolling upgrade, the next being braking! Yes it is fast, the power though is solid with no noticeable power band, it just keeps going to the rev limit of 6700rpm. Don't know how this will progress but welcome questions . In the car pic I have already raised the front .
  3. Hi everyone, Is anyone able to identify this noise? I have had a local mecanic have a look at my car and he put a camera down the spark plug chamber and noticed a few marks on pistons 1 and 2 on the bore. He seems to think it could be Piston Slap. So when the car is cold and idling, it sounds quite loud (as shown in the video). Once warmed up, the sound at idle goes. However, when driving and putting load on the engine the noise comes back. Everytime when putting on load. I'm not a mechanic and my skills are limited to servicing and hope someone on this forum is able to help me in any way. Also, if anyone knows a good mechanic for these classic cars in Essex/Herts area, would be very grateful. Thanks Kev VID_20210712_094930.mp4
  4. Morning all! My first post on the forum!! I am looking for an FC prefix 1147cc engine for a Mk2 Spitfire, can anyone point me in the direction of where I might find one? (GA/GD prefix would also work) I am based in Guildford, but happy to drive all over, I once drove to Blackburn for some other bits... Any help would be greatly appreciated! Cheers, Henry
  5. Hello, i have seized oil drain plugs on the engine and diff and the oil fill plug on the gearbox. The car is a 1971 1300 Spitfire that hasn’t run for 22 years. It is now running and I want to change the diff and gearbox oil. The engine has been solved by a vacuum pump through the dip stick tube but I am stuck with the diff and gearbox. I have been using a 7/16” spanner and a hammer along with plus gas but no effect so far. I have also tried a bit of heat from a blow torch. I have been looking for 8 point sockets but cannot find the right size in the uk. Can anyone advise how best to loosen the plug. Does anyone have experience with one of the universal sockets? thanks, Jeff.
  6. Hi has anyone fitted a Sdi rover v8 into a spitfire, and is there any pictures thanks
  7. Hi so here is my problem i have swapped out old engine for a reconditioned one .car starts and runs have been out on the motorway but when accelerated away the car seens to have a misfire once car is in third gear or forth its fine .while sitting in traffic slight fluctuation on the idle dropping from 900 rpm to 500rpm then back up other than that as i said it starts and drives.im thinking electrical? But i know that i have new battery new plugs,leads the distributor and coil are unchanged. So if anyone can shed light on this and timming was done by guy who swapped out engine .thanks for looking regards Paul
  8. My engine seems to be using a lot of oil. But I can’t see where from. I can’t see any blue smoke in the exhaust (except when I was checking the inlet manifold for leaks and I dribbled some on the joint). I’ve not had a following car checking yet but the amount that I seem to be loosing I would expect to see a cloud behind me! i can’t see any obvious leaks - apart from an odd spot around the gearbox and diff areas there is nothing to note particularly. I do have a drip tray under the engine when it’s parked up, but that I think just has a bit of water in it. But I do have to check it again as it’s not disappeared in the heat so might be oil - it just doesn’t look like it.
  9. Hi All Wanted, a late GT6 MK3 short engine (domed piston), preferably in serviceable condition. Happy to have a full engine / all ancillaries too if you have them but they're not needed. Or a complete / compatible MK2/early MK3 engine in serviceable condition. Thanks Mick
  10. At some point in the nearish future, I will be stripping and rebuilding my Spitfire's engine. It's currently (As far as I know) standard - though is from a Dolly 1500! I don't want to build a racing engine, but would like to do some sensible upgrades to improve reliability and drivability. Whilst I don't have a bottomless budget, I would rather spend a few quid more now and not regret it later! I would like to fit a sports exhaust at the same time too. I've read that a Newmans mildroad cam is a good option, and payan gaskets are the best, but what bearings and rings? TIA
  11. The GT6 Oil Filter bowl and hence filter appear shorter in depth/height than the Vitesse and 2000/2500 Saloon as the GT6/Spitfire chassis is the same at the front as the Vitesse/Herald why would this be. I assume that the Vitesse would fit and clear the chassis/ side engine shields. Can anyone advise I'm curious and its of general interest only. Regards Grumpy Rabbit Peter T
  12. Hi guys A few tips if you don't mind as I'm sure some of you must have had the issue! LITTLE BIT OF BACKGROUND: 1147 Herald which I got back on the road 500 miles ago has been running perfectly as I have gradually increased the distances, speeds and time of trips. slightly longer trip last week on the M way so higher speeds than normal and a longer trip, all went well, nice smooth running. ISSUE: Once off the motorway,car started stalling when pulling up so no tick-over every time I pulled up. After a couple of roadside stops and some tinkering with the volume adjuster and tick-over screw, all was back to normal and the trip back was as smooth as the one out. I have taken the car out this week and instantly, the tick-over issue has returned and the car running generally rough. ACTIONS SO FAR Checked compression's, all good Re-adjusted the tick-over and volume adjusters Replaced soiled fuel filter Replaced (very soiled) air filter (which also smelt very fuel rich) Adjusted timing which appeared to be slightly out Removed & cleaned carb mixture jet Checked points gap Checked plugs gaps (rich deposits on plugs) CURRENT SITUATION: Tick-over now good when warmed up and choke pushed full in ISSUE: Car is now very under-powered compared to previously, particularly at the higher speed end, 50mph, doesn't want to go any higher with foot flat to the floor and it was slow getting to that point. OBSERVATIONS: Some back-firing and carb popping when accelerating and slowing Temperature good and stead Oil pressure good Vacuum same as previously was NEXT STEPS: Any thoughts welcome guys and gals but do you think I'm right to be looking at: Carburettor Fuel delivery Re-looking at the timing Like I say, any assistance, thoughts, ideas very much welcome. All the best Gary
  13. Hi i am sure this has been discussed before. But:- The oil pressure oil comes on after a short journey on tick over, i have no knowledge of the history or mileage of this engine. It runs well has normal power and burns little oil.I was preparing to do a bottom end rebuild, but thought prior to this i fitted a mechanical oil pressure gauge. On tick-over and up to running temperature the light comes on at 25lb Running in fourth at 50mph pressure is 75lb. Given these readings i feel the engine is in good health and probably has a oversensitive pressure switch. Should i stop worrying or continue with the bottom end rebuild. Your thoughts would be appreciated. Many thanks Allen
  14. Hi has anyone had issues with oil coming out between the cylinder head and block the distributor side (not rocker gasket or any were else). I am about to take the cylinder head off for the 4th time for the same problem. I bought my TR6 a 1972 CP PI in may 2016, took the cylinder head off and got D&G to convert it to unleaded and re work it. I checked the block for straightness all ok. Re fitted with cylinder head gasket after cleaning out all the stud holes fitted with new studs, nuts and washers. Tightened down to 70lbs ran like a dream but leaked oil. Had a chat to jigsaw who said quite common problem, try heldite round the oil feed channel between block and head, did the same as the first time. Still leaked. Did the cylinder head again with thicker washers and wellseal coated on head gasket block and head plus heldite round oil channel. Gasket part number I am using is is AJM387, I did a 5 year apprenticeship as a vehicle mechanic any help before I do this for the forth time would be appreciated. By the way this is my first time on a forum so sorry if I have not been clear. Cheers
  15. Hi guys, I have a question regarding the wiring on my 1972 Triumph GT6 MK3, and was wondering if anyone could help clear it up. I had a auto electrician come over a few days ago to help with the wiring who has worked on a GT6 before and couldn't get his head round the wiring set up which links the flamethrower oil to the distributor cap. I have included pictures of my current set up below. The engine turns over but doesn't run, this is due to there being no sparks on the spark plugs which tells me something isn't set up properly on the coil?? I may be wrong but if anyone can give me some advance on the wiring set up or send me pictures of their set up I would really appreciate it. Thanks! Jim.
  16. Hi all, I was just wondering why some GT6 MK3's have the ignition coils attached to the body and some attached to the engine? Originally I believe they were attached onto the engine but there are mountings on the front of the body for the ignition bracket along with the wiper motor device. I have attached pictures below of my set up before and after repositioning it. is there earthing issues if its attached to the body? I much prefer it attached to the body, but what is best body or engine? and what is original.. Any clarification on this topic would be much appreciated. Regards, Jim.
  17. Hi all I am looking to have my GT6 Mk2 engine rebuilt but because my engine has been modified already, I'm looking for a company /somebody who will recognise whats non standard (like high lift cam profiles etc) and properly set it up to suit the components or recommend a change. I'm thinking it needs a specialist beyond the norm. I actually rebuilt it myself many years ago but I can't remember what I did to it now - and frankly it never ran well Can anybody recommend anyone please? Many thanks for any advice Rich
  18. Hi, Im just getting my 13/60 ready for its first MOT in a long long time, I did the timing and tweaked the Carb and I was planning on giving it an oil change however. Im a bit disappointed by how much oil is already seeping from the front of the engine. I know it is fitted with the Triumph throughput system where you put it in the top and it comes out the bottom but its more than a drip. On inspection it seems to be the usual culprit, stripped threads on the Sump bolts into the sealing block. Ive done a search but Im still unclear how hard this would be to change in situ ? Are the replacement alloy sealing blocks worth the money and are they standard for all the 4 cylinder engines ? Also I read something about wooden spacers - or did I dream that bit. The oil that is in the engine is very thin, Ive bought some decent 20/40 so that may be less leaky but I will need to address this at some time just trying to gauge how much of a job. As usual all asistance gratefuly received Steve
  19. Hi all, Adamant on becoming a classic car driver / enthusiast and found a nice 50year old triumph 1300 FWD within budget. Been to view it, needs a bit of TLC cosmetically but undergone a decent amount of mechanical works and it's just passed an MOT no advisories. My only real concern is the way the engine sounded, there was quite an obvious clattering sound which grew as the car accelerated. I'd be grateful if you could see the attached video and give me any idea of if I should be concerned as a first time buyer of a classic about this kinda noise. Is it normal or a serious underlying condition? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqOQTXzJW2o&feature=youtu.be My only other concern was looking up into the engine bay from under the car, there was some oil present on the front of the engine, I was with the guy with several hours though and none ever dripped down to the floor, so uncertain if this is an old issue. Appreciate its not the best angled photo but the best I could do I'm very appreciative of any help and hopefully in the next few days I might have myself a cracking piece of history and become an active member of the forum (y) Regards -Si
  20. Hi guys, So, currently sitting in my garage is a late model Spitfire 1500 which has not been on the road for 10 years. The bodywork seems good, interior is a little tatty (or missing) But no great concern. The problem is, the engine won't start. It turns over,pumps fuel (which is fresh) but no start. The questions are, therefore, what should I be looking at? What perils usually lurk within a Spitty that hasn't moved in 10 years? As far as the engine is concerned, there's no spark from the coil (put the lead out next to bodywork to check), should I replace it? I'm presuming I'll need to sort out everything under the dizzy cap. To that end is it worth switching to electronic ignition? Or should I sort the old points condenser system first? As far as electric ignition can anyone recommend one, and any to avoid. Right. That about covers it for now. Sorry if it's a lot but I'm new to this game so please be gentle. this car has been inherited from my dad so I'd like to get her up and running. Thanks in advance for your help, Jonathan
  21. Can anyone help with regard to a problem I cannot resolve. I have a 1972 GT6. Apart from sports exhaust and K&N filters the engine is pretty much standard. The engine has developed a problem when it gets to full operating temperature. Starting up and running while warming up it is fine. After about 10 to 15 milles and under load the engine looses power and runs very roughly. I have to ease of the throttle and allow the car to accelerate very slowly and even then it is constantly missing. If I stop and allow it to cool a bit it runs smoothly again until it heats up. The carbs were replaced about two years ago and colourtune shows them to be set correctly. The timing is correct. I have fitted new HT leads, coil, distributor cap and rotor arm. All made no difference. The car has electronic ignition. I have just set all the valve clearances and although the car then started running better the old problem came back after 30 or 40 miles. I am running out of ideas and getting fed up of buying new parts that make no difference. Anyone got any ideas where I should look next? Thanks.
  22. Hello all, I have a 1979 (could be 78) spitfire 1.5...I have had it for nearly a year pretty much problem free until a rather worrying incident heading down the m4. The engine began producing a horrible sound, like something had snapped off inside. I pulled over, called the AA - who could only tell me there was something seriously wrong - and the car returned on the back of a lorry. I have a video that I shall try to upload, where you can hear the sound. Note the car would still drive, but obviously the death rattle became worse with acceleration. Another thing to note is that when reversing in the weeks leading up to this, the engine would clunk nastily. However it seemed fine going forwards. Two questions: Firstly any idea what it is? Secondly: I live in Reading and the car is in my garage, anybody know where I can get it repaired by somebody who knows spitfires - and is not too expensive and close. Thanks for your potential time and help! below is the youtube link for the sound from the engine. https://youtu.be/qbquZhd6Mes
  23. Hi.. I have a 1500 Spitfire. The car failed its MOT as the CO emissions are too high. Unfortunately the garage I took it to is not able to tune the engine. Time is getting a little tight. Is there anyone who can help? A local MOT garage they can recommend? Thanks.
  24. Dear TSSC members, I'm new to the club, and new to forums for that matter, so interested to see how this works. I bought a lovely 1973 GT6 MK3 in the summer. Previous owner lavished much love and attention to restoring the body work, but other factors meant he needed to sell before getting stuck into the inner workings. I've had a great couple of months using it, but I think time has come for improvements. Whilst it makes a lovely noise, depressing the accelerator produces more noise, but no discernible performance! Max speed is 80mph at 5000RPM. Interestingly, a rolling road test at CCK Historic in Sussex recorded good oil pressure and good compression, but only 61BHP at back wheels. Another factor is engine temperature gauge is off the scale (hot side) within 3 minutes of driving normally, but a laser heat recorder fired at different parts of the engine indicate its actually running at correct temperature. I have changed the temperature sender unit, but same result. Anyway, I am getting off subject here. The overdrive has recently failed, and speaking to people 'in-the-know' it sounds as if the Conical clutch is worn out. Symptons are strange rev fluctuations in gears 2-4 (regardless of position of switch, which is now always 'out'), and the car now won't reverse. That was a bit awkward in the Waitrose car park when it first happened! I have therefore taken the decision to have all three items reconditioned at the same time over the coming few months. Not only that, but I want my engine improved to the best available road-going performance (this one isn't for racing). I have chatted with a few 'suppliers' including CCK in Sussex, Southern Triumph in Bournemouth, Jigsaw Racing in Corby, Slark Race Engineering in Amesbury and the TSSC themselves. The general consensus is that Gearbox and O/D is a fairly simple overhaul, with no special options. Engine however can have various bells and whistles, all at cost. It seems a 'stage 2' overhaul with the stromburgs to be replaced with SU (from Dolomite, or machined to fit), would create the best outcome at sensible cost (a relative term, but I imagine this will all cost a bit North of £5-6K?). I note talk of Weber Carbs, but they are apparently excessive for these cars. I Also note talk of putting a TR6 engine in the GT6 (and now would be the time, if ever), but no significant advantages over getting my own 2.0 litre engine running well. I am leaning towards Jigsaw for all this, but all suppliers are knowledgeable, and seem to offer a slightly different angle and opinion on the subject. The purpose of this lengthy post, is to see if anyone else has jumped through these hoops, in particular with Jigsaw, and have any thoughts! Thank you.
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