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Found 8 results

  1. Hi all Thoughts please. I have an Accuspark distributor fitted to my GT6 and it works well. I’ve got one on my TR4 and it’s lasted well also. However, bought a spare for the GT6 as I’m doing the RBRR with Club triumph and have had to swap a distributor (old points one) on the event once before. Anyway, thought I’d do a trial fit with clamp and all so could quickly swap and the timing would be spot on. However on fitting I couldn’t get it timed properly because to get number 1 cylinder lined up I needed twist It so far clockwise the vacuum unit fouled the block. Looking at it realised that the key way in the distributor was not aligned with the end of the rotor arm. In my experience all my triumph engines have the rotor arm pointing at about 8 o clock for number 1 cylinder in line with the slot in the drive gear but on this distributor it was just beyond 9 o clock when slotted home in the drive which was at 8.00 o clock. I queried this with Accuspark and they said it’s quite common for them to be out of alignment and I should move all the plug leads around one so number 1 was at 9.00 o clock etc. This would work of course but it seems bit of a bodge and somewhat confusing compared to all the other distributors I’ve seen. The Accuspark already fitted has no 1 at 8 o clock. I was going to reply and tell him I wanted to send it back but just wondered if he got difficult, whether I was being awkward myself? welcome any thoughts Bob
  2. Just a quick post hopefully to help someone who is fitting a moto lita wheel. I had real problems fitting it without the horn sounding either constantly or intermittently as the metal wheel earthed against the horn ring. The trick for me was to make sure the sliding joint that moves the steering wheel backwards and forwards was pulled far enough back by releasing the lock nut and loosening the Allen bolt so when the wheel was tightened on to the splines and taper there was enough clearance to stop the wheel contacting the horn ring. Also, if you remove the wheel and, like me tap the inner column with a drift to break the taper, don’t forget that doing so will probably push the inner column inwards and reduce the afore mentioned clearance and cause the horn to sound again. Took me a while to work that one out! You also you may find positioning the outer column nearer the dashboard helps get a bit more clearance. Hopefully may help someone work all this out quicker than me!! Bob
  3. One of the car's radius arm brackets had sheared on my rotoflex GT6. I supposed I could simply remove the existing bracket and fit new. As many with more experience will know, that was a vain hope. I therefore took off the hubs and in doing so, realised the rotoflexes were a bit cracked so decided to go the whole hog and rebuild the lot. Before I did this, I looked in depth at all the posts on here and elsewhere and they were very helpful and, when you get your head around how it all works and fit's together, its a logical, if slightly time consuming job. The purpose of this post is to point out a few issues I had and perhaps fill in some of the gaps in what I could find on the web. Getting the drive shafts off is pretty straightforward but you really need a spring lifter to do this. One man job. You also need to jack up the hub as well as the spring to get the spring eye bolt out easily - there is a sweet spot of alignment that a combination of the two produces it seems. I used a decent sized trolley jack under the lift and a smaller trolley under the hub/vertical link (see later for reassembly) Getting out the radius arm bracket bolt than runs through the hub is impossible without a press (or it was for me and countless others). I ended up giving them to my friendly local garage and it took him 5 mins and cost a bottle of wine. He told me that he put it on a press, applied pressure then heated it and they slipped out. I got 2 new brackets from what used to be Jigsaw on Ebay. The wishbone bolts came out fine and replaced with polybush from Paddocks. Fitted ok but supplied with 4 washers. I assumed one at each end and one at either inside end of the bushes but could not get those two in. In the end loft them off. Long bolts all treated to copper slip. Rotoflexes genuine from Robush - there is a thread on here about that. One of the reasons I rebuilt the hubs was because I didn't trust the previous restorer. It turned out that on one drive shaft the threaded end had been shortened and thus the nut was no where near fully engaged (presumably stripped it trying to put it together without a press). I had to buy a replacement near side vertical link (completely mullered - as was the wishbone - presumably trying to get it off). There was only a spacer and no shims on the shaft so not certain end float was correct. One of the hubs had seen better days so bit bullet and bought 2 new ones from Canleys (far cheaper than Rimmers). I pulled the hubs with the TSSC hub puller. I'm glad I had one as not sure if a normal three legged putter would have done it (a lot of people say it should but I was glad of the heftier item). The new hubs were far tighter on the shaft than the old ones. I found it impossible to get them fully on the shaft without using a press (only needed a couple of tons). Doing the job without a press would have been impossible for me and it certainly helps as you need to put it together and pull it apart a few times. It also means you don't knacker the driveshaft threads by using them to pull everything into place. In terms of shimming the hub, there is loads of helpful stuff on line. I used the Canley method but I found it hard getting an accurate measure using feelers. It looked like I didn't need spacers but on assembly and checking against the back plate with a dial gauge I ended up with a spacer. I found it confusing the talk of inner/ outer races and bearing cups etc. However, basically you need to fit the cups and bearings and then press through the hub to check the measurement. One point to remember is not to mix up your backplates! I did and had to take is all apart. Doh! The Canley end nuts and washers were a good investment (see another thread on this). Putting it back together was ok once I lined up the two jacks as noted above. At one point the angles are just right so you can slip a bolt through (a tap or two on the top of the link may be needed to get it all aligned) No brute force needed but I did need to get the car low enough a the rear to get enough lift on the spring (I have a hydraulic ramp). The other option would be to stand the spring lifting trolley jack on blocks. All in all, not as bad a job as is made out in my experience. The trickiest bit is the shimming and I would invest in a press if I didn't have one. Bob
  4. Well pleased with the new dash I received today from Classical Dash. Highly recommended. I see they have some bad press on the web. Their products are excellent (or my dash is anyway) - it's their business skills that are shyte and lead to customer concern. Ian Bond who runs the company is chronically poor at answering email or the phone or returning calls which makes for a fraught transaction. Don't let that put you off. It's his company that supplies Rimmers et al (he tells me!) and my dash was £65 cheaper direct from him than from Rimmers. I did try to veneer my original dash myself btw, which is another story I will relay sometime. Overall my advice would be if you are handy and you like a project, go ahead - but for me I was never happy so changed tack and bought one from a professional. I am handy and a perfectionist. The trouble is you learn as you go along and it's very easy to chip the veneer around the tiny gaps between guages / switches (1st effort). If it is a GT6 you have the 3 sections to contend with, making it important to align the sections to ensure grain consistency (the sections themselves don't directly align as the centre section is narrower than the 2 sides (2nd effort). Also I see all types of veneers, laquers and varnishes being used - but it's very important to get it right as it won't last. I veneered it twice and although they looked very good to everone else, I was never really happy and it took a lot of effort. In the end bought one and looking at it I doubt many non professionals could match the quality. Pictures below don't do it justice. Just my view. I know many people are very happy with their creations! Incidently, the colour of the new dash certainly doesn't match my old one. Clasical Dash had warned me that I may be surprised. They say this is the original colour, using the same techniques - and will naturally fade over time. But I only have their word for that! Rich
  5. Hi all I wonder if any one can help with this one. I have a mk2 GT6 that has been converted to overdrive (not by me). I have noticed that recently, when the car is cold it behaves oddly in that it seems to be going into and out of overdrive. Although, it may be more like a clutch slipping - the revs rise but the speed does not - or rather does not straight away - if you apply power it seems to take up drive. Once warm, it behaves normally - in and out of overdrive with no undue delay and no issue of revs rising or falling. There is some vibration at higher speeds (70 plus) which I think is the prop - the UJs were changed and I think it needs balancing. I don't think its electrical as all the wiring/switches were new (done by me) and checked and all seem to be working fine. I know there are a couple of clutches in an overdrive and confess I don't fully understand how they work! Oil levels checked and ok. Its not long been back on the road (it was a part restoration that I finished) Thanks in advance for any contributions. Bob
  6. I finally got around to repairing the screenwash/pump switch on my GT6 Mk2 that someone, in its past, had butchered replacing the plastic knob with a crudely shaped piece of wooden dowel. I had picked up a similar looking switch on ebay a couple of years ago but one of the electrical connections was different (smaller) and one was a female connector so I hadn't fitted the switch. I decided to take the plunger rod from the donor switch to replace the (butchered) plunger from my switch and fit a new knob. Taking the donor switch apart it became obvious the inner pump would be damaged beyond repair so I figured an upgrade to an electric switch would be a good idea. So this is my solution if it helps anyone. Parts used: 1 Lucas style push button switch (0-485-01) momentary 10A horn (Durite) - EBAY 1 Plastic bush (148926) lower wishbone rear (rotoflex)- GT6 and Vitesse 2 x 1/2 self tappers and small washers. 2" by 1/2" strip of neoprene pond liner (a couple of turns of insulation tape would work just as well) Method: Remove the knob (there's a small hole underneath the shank, push a thin rod in to release the nylon locking clip) and withdraw the knob. Remove the pump/switch from the dashboard. Remove the white pump inlet/outlet end (I drilled a series of small holes around the inlet/outlet nozzles, joined them up and pulled out the remnants, a spring and rubber diaphragm. At this point I swapped the donor plunger with my butchered plunger but you shouldn't have to do that it can stay in place. Remove the 'Lucas' switch mounting nut (not shown) but leave the mounting washer. Wrap the neoprene around the switch body (a couple of turns of insulation tape will do) and slide it into the suspension bush as shown. Now place the assembly into the pump body and and check the fit against the plunger; the whole assembly should fit snugly against the plunger with it's domed head seating in the switch depression. NB The switch has a small amount of travel before it switches so you can mount it without a gap to the plunger. If you're happy with the fit drill two small 'pilot' holes (180° apart on the horizontal) through the outer pump body and just mark the bush inside. Now remove the switch, and drill through the bush. Align holes and screw the self tappers through the pump body and into the bush; to cut a thread. Take out the self tappers and (to prevent damage to the switch I filed the sharp points off the screws to make them blunt). Put the switch/bush assembly back together and position in the pump body with the holes aligned. Replace the self tappers using thin washers and job done, 'a period' modification that can be repaired or replaced. You'll need an electric pump and a couple of wires but that's the easy bit. Hope this helps someone. Thanks for all your help. Ian
  7. Hi all Further to my thread re slipping overdrive, I picked up a recon overdrive box off EBay. The seller said it was from a mk1 Gt6 and said it had been uprated byFitchetts 2 years ago. I thought it would be worth swapping for my current box and overdrive. Anyway, I spotted it was a J type rather than D type and I assumed the overdrive was the uprated bit but it seems it is a dolomite three rail as when I got it home, the spline is different and the number on the case suggests it’s from a 1850. What clutch plate will I need to fit it? Is it as simple as that? Bob
  8. Wondering if anybody has any ideas on what to do wrt renovating the external vent covers on the rear sides of my Mk2 GT6. The originals are chrome and pitted. I would imagine a rechrome would be difficut and not great without a lot of filling but I don't want to paint them body colour or black. 2nd hand they are in the hens teeth category. I have never seen any on fleabay in years of searching. All advice appreciated. Many thanks Rich
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