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  1. Hi, I bought a boxed automec brake pipe kit labelled "GT6 Mk3 " by the seller at Stafford today. However he couldn't confirm if the kit was complete or for which model/variant it was for so I haggled and got a good price and can always resell if it's not suitable for me and I can confirm which car it's for. Can anyone advise me as to how I can confirm if it is for a GT6 and, if so, which one? The packaging has the reference GB 6224 printed on it. Many thanks, ps It's many, many years since I've attended a TSSC event and I thought Stafford excellent but where have the all the GT6s disappeared to?
  2. Hi, Can I remove the tailgate hinge assembly by simply removing the bracket bolts and lift it out? Will I encounter potential issues with the spring being under tension and are there any other issues I should be aware of? Thanks.
  3. Hi, Has anyone any experience of the above: manufacturing/material/build quality etc. Also, any advice on where I might get my hands on a decent second hand pair would be appreciated. Paul
  4. Hi, Can anyone please advise if Spitfire doors and GT6 Mk3 doors interchangeable? Given the GT6 has the quarter light frame I assume some mods may be required. Any help much appreciated. thanks, Paul
  5. Hi, Can someone please let me know what material the rear air vent filter (part number 624400) is made from. I'm guessing it's foam but I'd appreciate confirmation. Thanks, Paul
  6. Hi, I'm looking to purchase a pair of CD150 CDSE carburettors for my early GT6 Mk3. Ideally I'd like models 3369L and 3369R which I believe would have been fitted originally and operate with the Smiths' emission valve so will not have the breather tube connectors. If you can help please let me know. In addition, any advice on suitable alternative models to the above and the pros and cons associated with them will be appreciated. Thanks, Paul
  7. From the album: GT6 Mk3 Respray

    © Chris Bottomley

  8. From the album: GT6 Mk3 Respray

    © Chris Bottomley

  9. From the album: GT6 Mk3 Respray

    © Chris Bottomley

  10. From the album: GT6 Mk3 Respray

    © Chris Bottomley

  11. ChrisJB


    From the album: GT6 Mk3 Respray

    © Chris Bottomley

  12. Hi, I currently have the heater unit out of the car and wondered if anyone can advise on any of the the following: 1. The heater blower seal and the seals to the water inlet/return pipes are perished. Having looked around I can't find replacements at the usual places and so am assuming they are no longer available. Can anyone please confirm this is the case before I start to make replacements? 2. Is it possible/practical/sensible to open the heater unit up? Having successfully performed and survived the multiple contortions required to remove it I just want to clean the thing up as much as possible before the repeat performance required to re-install it. 3. Does anyone have any recommendations for replacement air distribution hoses? Most of mine are torn so I'm looking to replace them all. 4. When removing the unit the heads on the bottom two bolts sheared off. I've got a little length on each and have tried a few ways to ease them off but I've not yet been able to budge them. I'm planning to gently heat them next but before I do I thought I'd ask if anyone has any suggestions on techniques/tools etc. Many thanks, Paul
  13. Hi all, A couple or so years ago the rear spring was replaced on my rotoflex GT6. Knowing the new springs have a habit of giving positive camber, I specified a half-inch lowering block. Over the first 6 months the spring was fitted, the rear gradually lowered to the point where the block could be removed and retain negative camber. I've procrastinated about doing the job for a while, but really should get around to it. My question is how best to go about the removal? I really don't want to take the spring out completely, so have been mulling over the following approach: 1. Jack up the rear of the car 2. Remove the spring holding plate and studs from the top of the diff 3. Carefully partially lower the car so the spring lifts sufficiently from the diff to remove the lowering block 4. Jack up the rear again, replace the studs and bolt down the holding plate (ensuring the locating pip locates in the top of the diff) Will this work? The car has CV shafts in place of the rotoflex couplings, so less force involved there! Thanks in advance for your thoughts! Gully
  14. Hi, I've just spent a really 'wonderful' week or so ? removing bitumen underseal and the attached 'sound deadening felt' ?? felt from the entire underside of the bonnet and now have it back to bare metal and, of course, associated areas of rust all of which, fortuneately, are treatable. The reason I removed it was it looked awful and I want the bonnet underside to look 'smart' and also so I could see what the underseal was hiding. Leaving aside what I've found which will cost me to fix, I'm in a quandary as to what to now do with the bonnet underside. I'm leaning towards spraying it with stone chip and then over coating it with a colour to match the external colour. I'm not sure this is the best thing to do and would appreciate any views/opinions, product recommendations etc. from anyone out there who's had a similar challenge and come up with a solution. Also, if I do use stone chip paint would I use a conventional primer under it? I'll be grateful for any advice, thanks, Paul
  15. Hi, My GT6 was manufactured in October 1970 but not sold, taxed and insured etc. until 1972. How should I legitimately refer to it ? Should I say it's a1970 or a 1972 car, and, does it matter? I don't want to misrepresent it. thanks, Paul
  16. Hi, Is the inner wheel arch outer section (909351/2) welded at all to the front wing (909663/4)? I have one that is and one that isn't?. Life's never dull with a Triumph. Paul
  17. Hi, I've started to strip the paint off the car to bare metal in preparation for a re-spray. The last re-spray was done 30+ years ago. I did a test strip on the area just in front of the windscreen and found evidence of filler. Expecting the worst I stripped the whole area and found just solid steel. I then stripped a rear wing and found exactly the same. The complete wing has a skim of filler over it and underneath is sound and cleans up nice and shiny. I'm guessing I'm going to find more of the same when I tackle the next area. Does anyone have any ideas as to why someone would skim filler over apparently sound panels? Or am I just being thick and missing something obvious? Thanks for any help.
  18. Hi, I'm looking for a pair of Stromberg 150 cdse carbs for an early GT6 Mk3. If anyone can help please let me know. Thanks, Paul
  19. Hi, Earlier today, after 25 years of separation, I did a trial fitting of the bonnet. Suddenly the car looked like a Gt6 again! I've realised, though, that the hinge pivot points should have bushes in them (part number 624508). Having checked in the usual places it appears they are no longer available. Can anyone please advise me as to what I can use in their place or provide any guidance that may help me move on. thanks, Paul
  20. Hi, Having spent a pleasant afternoon cleaning 25+ years of grime off my carbs and manifold as I prepare for a rebuild I've ended up with a question. A previous owner fitted a pair of SU carbs. As you can see from the pic they've incorporated a small piece of an aircraft carrier landing deck as, I assume, a spacer. Is my spacer assumption correct or is there another reason for this arrangement? I'm happy to stay with the SUs if I can't find suitable Strombergs and I just want understand why they are so much further away from the manifold than the Strombergs would be. Thanks in anticipation. Paul Carburettor.pptx
  21. Hi, Sometime ago I acquired a pair of Stromberg 150CD carbs with a manifold. I've been able to verify the manifold via its Stanpart reference as correct for the car. What I haven't been able to do is identify if the carbs are CD or CDSE. Can anyone please enlighten me as to how to tell the difference? Many thanks, Paul
  22. Hi, I've managed to rescue my master cylinders which weren't in fact so much seized as just encased in years of crud (red rubber grease). I'm now proposing to refurbish them as there's no obvious signs of damage to the bores - in fact the brake m/c is spotless while the clutch m/c has some residual coating which, I'm pretty certain, I can easily remove - or the other components. It's 50 years plus since I last did a refurb and I can't remember for the life of me if I should grease all of the piston assembly (piston, spring, rubbers etc.) or just the piston. Can someone advise me please as to what's best practice these days and should I use grease at all or just use brake fluid to lubricate? Also, once I've refurbed them it'll be some months before I reinstall them so would I be better delaying the refurb until until I'm ready to install? many thanks, Paul
  23. I'm in the process of restoring my car which has been standing warm and dry for 20 years plus. I've started to strip the master cylinders, which are off the car, and found they're in a poor state with aged, coagulated fluid. Consequently the "internals" won't budge. I've cleaned out as much crud as I can and put fresh fluid into the reservoir in the hope it'll seep through the bore and maybe ease things. If anyone has any other ideas as to how I might able to " get the insides out" I'll be very grateful. Paul
  24. Hi, Can anyone please advise me if it's possible to remove the top dashboard panel (part no. 815281) (the piece with the ashtray in it) without stripping out the facia and instruments? I'm going to need some repairs to the lip the rubber window seal goes over. On an otherwise sound windscreen aperture a few inches have just rotted away. many thanks, Paul
  25. Hi. New member but long time GT6 owner. I have owned the car, on and off, since 1978. During the last period that the car was with the other owner ( don't ask, it's a long story ) he fitted a stainless steel exhaust. The car starts from cold very well and runs nicely. If the car is parked after a run of a few miles it will not restart until the engine has cooled down. Looking at the mods he put on I'm assuming the following and would be grateful for any comments you may have :- The stainless exhaust goes right to the head directly under the inlet manifold. The carburetors now have circular air filters fitted which have done away with the airbox and pipes to the grill as fitted as standard. I have had the exhaust 'wrapped' in an attempt to cure the problem but it persists. My assumptions :- The stainless exhaust is radiating heat in large amounts directly onto the inlet manifold. The air filters are pulling in very hot air from within the engine bay. Removing the airbox and pipes does away with cold outside air coming into the engine. I think that all of the above is causing the fuel in the inlet manifold to vapourise prior to hitting the carbs. My current thinking is to return the car to it's original specification. I have a refurbished cast iron manifold and an airbox and pipes ready to fit. My question is that prior to fitting these and a standard exhaust does anyone have any other suggestions please. Thanks.
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