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  1. Hi all. Once more back to the TSSC oracle…. Following restoration of my GT6, I have yet to properly fettle my engine which is still in run in phase. The engine was properly reconditioned and I refurbed the carbs & fuel pump myself. I did set the carb floats height according to the W/shop manual. I noticed that the carb to manifold gaskets were looking a little oily on top (pic 1) which led me to look closer and underneath the gasket area is very oily (oily gunge). Seems to be worse towards the front. Pics 2 & 3. Wondering what this could be? Possibly related. When I first started the engine after rebuild, quite a lot of fuel washed out of the air intake side of the carb. I also had a weird problem once after I parked up for 5 mins after a short run and the engine wouldn’t start (there’s a thread on this). Now I wonder if it flooded. I haven’t taken the air filters off to take a look yet. As ever, all advice appreciated. Rich
  2. Hi all Since restoring my GT6 (completed this year) my car has been as good as gold starting. But today I had a problem which I can’t see any obvious explanation for. As I haven’t driven the car for about 2 weeks, turned over quite a few times before the fuel got through the system. The battery did suffer a bit as a result but all was running fine so off I went (note to self always prime the pump after a period of non use). First stop petrol station where unusually I filled it to 3/4 full (1st time since rebuild). Started fine. Next stop Sainsbury’s, 5 mins turned off, turned over fine but would not start or even bite. In the end battery started struggling. Baffled. Left it for 20 mins whilst I nipped home (courtesy of a very kind fellow shopper) to get some tools. Tried again without doing anything, started on the key.😮 - Electronic ignition - Low mileage inline fuel filter (ahead of pump) Any ideas? Thanks all. TSSC advice always the best. Can’t be looking like a classic car loser at Sainsbury’s!! On the positive side had some lovely comments at the petrol station. Some very nice people out there 😏 Rich
  3. The plastic chrome trim (finisher) running along between the top of the door card and the bottom of the door capping on my GT6 doors is beyond repair. Although it's in the parts manual, it has no part number and appears to be not available anywhere. I've looked around for something similar (including Woolies) to no avail. Has anybody come up with any innovative alternative please? Profile as below (the curved bit sits on top of the door card and is no more than 3mm) Many thanks Rich
  4. Long shot but wondering if anyone has a weathershield / Britex vinyl sunroof / frame they would sell me, from a GT6. Just finishing the restoration on my car (which had a sunroof). I had a guy restore mine but as most of the metal work was shot he used a doner from another car without telling me it was different. The gaps between the cross braces are wider leaving a large unsupported area at the back. Need the correct doner for him to sort it out 😩😩 anyone help?😬😬 much appreciated. Rich
  5. Hi I have a Mk2 GT6 with a 2.5 engine and fast road cam. The car has been running on Stromberg 150 carbs, which are clearly not right for the engine, and a V3186 manifold (not sure what that's from). I have acquired a pair of Dolomite Sprint SU HS6 carbs that I intend to fit, but wanted to check a couple of points before making any expensive mistakes! The Strombergs pretty much touch the bonnet, so the SUs wouldn't fit the current manifold without fouling. What is my best option? My understanding is that the standard GT6 manifold would work clearance-wise if adapted to the larger carbs, but I gather they aren't well balanced, and there also don't seem to be many around. Are there other options? Any advice on needles and air filter also gratefully received! Thanks.
  6. Does anyone know which headlining support stick goes where, ie: front, mid, rear. Mine are colour coded green, white and red. Also, I’ve repaired the roof front section and in doing so, I didn’t refit the hook pieces that play a part in the fitting of the lining. Have I dropped a (young bull) in doing so and need to fit them. I still have one complete with it’s knackered end that used to be attached to the car. I’ll remake them in stainless and bond them to the roof. I’ll need positions though so, can anyone send me a marked-up picture or a drawing? Thank you.
  7. Hello everyone. Just come to fit the bright trim (plastic not ss) into the screen seal on my 6 and it doesn’t look right. The seal looks different to others on this forum and I can’t imagine how the trim fits in, and stays in. Canley Classics seal and Rimmer bros bright trim. All suggestions and help will be most appreciated.
  8. Does anyone know the current keeper of the above vehicle, are they possibly a club member? My reason for asking is I'd be interested to talk to them about work they've had done on the car. Thanks, Paul
  9. Hi all I'm thinking of using nylon air pipe to carry fuel front to back, as an alternative to the steel pipe, like this one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Flexible-Nylon-Tubing-30-Metre-Coil-Pneumatic-Air-Pipe/110815841282?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D225114%26meid%3D0d16ccaa54834d368defacc332011f3e%26pid%3D100276%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D122850372975%26itm%3D110815841282%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2060778%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWeb%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2060778.c100276.m3476= Does anyone know how nylon pipe stands up to Ethanol please? Any views? Many thanks Rich
  10. Hi. After a near miss this week with perished fuel lines, I'm replacing all my fuel pipes with new R9 type. The current installation routes the pipe around the front of the engine to the front carb and then onto the second carb. My question: if I swap over the float chamber tops, can I route the fuel lines to the rear carb first so I can route fuel line around the rear of the engine? To me this looks straightforward, but want to pick your collective brains and knowledge before I do something obviously daft. Thanks.
  11. Repeating a "Stolen in Bishops Stortford" message from Gary Aldam on TSSC Facebook page:
  12. I’ve started a new thread on this as it seems feasible, but I might need your assistance. The MGBGT channel’s bend is only 3 to 4 mm different, when the parts are meshed, see picture. I measured them, did some CAD, and that measured 3.8 mm, see CAD screen shot. I’ve tried the MG channel with a GT6 rubber inside it on the glass, it fitted and slid along it easiily, the compliance in the rubber helping I’m sure. I’ll need to get new brackets made in slightly thicker mat’l as I can’t do them thin with bent sides as per original, anyone help there?
  13. Ayup folks. I’m rebuilding the dashboard of my ‘72 GT6 and I’m at the heater controls. They’re due a deep-clean (topical) with some brake cleaner and a light lube. What lube have you used at the slides and pivots? PS: Who knew that the screen demist ducts and the wiper tube battle for the same space?
  14. Does anyone have totally original gutters on their MK3 GT6? I’ve repaired mine as per the picture because I found more than one picture in a book which looked like this. I just wondered how an original car’s gutters terminate. When I got my car they were square ended and looked as if someone had just cut off a rotten section and filed them square.
  15. Good afternoon all, I’m refitting doors, drop glass and quarter-lights etc on my GT6 mk3 and I was wondering just what gaps to expect/go for. Are they always the same all around or different across the bottom compared to ends? Are both ends always the same? I’ve seen many with comparatively huge gaps to the bonnet and also not parallel. I assume that the rear gap is quite important as the latch Mech needs to fit around the striker plate.
  16. I’ve noticed a comment regarding tubular manifolds, that the 3to1 collector is actually a slip joint and the perils of this. I introduced my own flexi joint (axial and radial flex capable) under the gearbox of my GT6 as it did indeed all look a bit too rigid. Has anyone else tried one of these on the road? My car’s still work-in-progress.
  17. Would any of you kind souls be able to tell me the position of the bolt hole in the chassis bracket for GT6 rotoflex. Anyone got side or end elevation drawings? WSM only has top and a rear but it’s obscured. The Vitesse one gives a vertical dim from the top of the chassis.
  18. Hello all, I’m after assistance again. Can I remove the rear spring of my rotoflex mk3 without disconnecting drive shafts from diff, brake hoses from chassis etc? I have a factory spec spring tool.
  19. On my GT6, both trunnions have the same part number on. Aren’t they handed because of the left hand or right hand Acme thread on the, also handed, vertical links? The part number on the trunnions is 645627 & they have Stanpart on too. Is it possible to incorrectly build using the same v link and trunnion on both sides? Will the steering arm still go through the v link and fix properly?
  20. Just thought I'd share my experiences. I've just put a GT6 mk2 back on the road. It's running on a late Mk3 engine. Despite idling happily without overheating as soon as I drove it, the temperature gauge started rising in to the red. The engine was flushed with all sorts (including Fernox) but vey little crud came out from flushing and the drain at the rear of the block refused to do anything but dribble slightly (despite, bits of wire wiggling etc). The heater was lukewarm at best (although did help a bit to cool the engine if on full with the fan blowing). In the end bit the bullet, took off the cylinder head and after protecting cylinders etc with cloths, had a good go at cleaning out the rear of the block. Not surprisingly full of crud and scale. It didn't take too long and had it cleared out and running clear with water. The head was also pretty gummed up so treated that to a flush with phosphoric acid (40% strength bought off ebay). This latter substance is somewhat controversial - John D swears it wont work (only read his posts after buying it on someone else's recommendation). Anyway, it fizzed away for a few days and cleaned up things a treat. As the head was off I was sure I could rinse it out thoroughly so decided to risk it. Cleaned up the head, lapped the valves, got a new gasket and put it all back together. Far more hassle changing a diff. All working well, engine now not overheating, rear drain working perfectly. Heater is proper hot (not necessary I gather in a GT6 but nice to see it can work as expected). Moral of (my) story. Bite the bullet, don't arse about flushing and re flushing. Don't replace all manner of items (bought a very nice aluminium rad which I'm sure I don't need but then it does reduce a bit of weight up front!), water pump etc. Chances are your overheating issue is a cruddy block (especially if the drain doesn't work) and you may as well have a go at sorting it. Bob
  21. I have straight radius arms on my Rotoflex mk3 GT6 but the manual shows them as offset. Which should it be? I can’t believe I’ve only just noticed this!
  22. Hi, I am midway through my complete resto of my 1973 GT6 MK3. I am planning to paint the chassis the same colour as the body (Mimosa Yellow) as I am under the impression this is how they were from factory. What is the best sort of transparent protection I can use over the top of this (if necessary) whilst preserving the yellow topcoat (I was thinking lacquer or something similar). I am keen to avoid underseal/waxoyl (this will obviously cover the mimosa yellow) other than injecting into the chassis box sections. The car won’t be drive as a daily runner so I think stone chips will be the biggest problem. However I want to be sensible as well so am open to whatever if it is the right thing. Has anyone done similar where they have kept the chassis the same colour as the body and was the topcoat paint enough to keep it protected or would you advise something else? Hope this makes sense Thanks
  23. Anyone else had issues with a new speedo cable for GT6 mk3 with overdrive? Please see attached picture, the black one is the new one. The end fittings are wrong: too small at the od 90 degree drive and too big at the rear of the speedo.
  24. I recently replaced my fuel pump, the result of which was a leak from the inlet pipe when parked facing downhill. 🙄 I temporarily stopped it with an o-ring and ordered new tube and fittings, which arrived today. The olive on the tube is a very close fit. Are there any trade secrets for assembling fuel connections easily without damaging the olive or tube? TIA
  25. Evening all. I’ve swapped every one of the higher loaded bolts in the suspension for correct length ones. No more threads resisting shear liars thank you. But, the bolts refuse to go through the steel tube inside the front/lower bushes, they go through the chassis brackets though. Has anyone else experienced this? Surely I don’t need to take out the tubes and ream them.
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