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  1. Does anyone know which headlining support stick goes where, ie: front, mid, rear. Mine are colour coded green, white and red. Also, I’ve repaired the roof front section and in doing so, I didn’t refit the hook pieces that play a part in the fitting of the lining. Have I dropped a (young bull) in doing so and need to fit them. I still have one complete with it’s knackered end that used to be attached to the car. I’ll remake them in stainless and bond them to the roof. I’ll need positions though so, can anyone send me a marked-up picture or a drawing? Thank you.
  2. Does anyone know the current keeper of the above vehicle, are they possibly a club member? My reason for asking is I'd be interested to talk to them about work they've had done on the car. Thanks, Paul
  3. Does anyone have totally original gutters on their MK3 GT6? I’ve repaired mine as per the picture because I found more than one picture in a book which looked like this. I just wondered how an original car’s gutters terminate. When I got my car they were square ended and looked as if someone had just cut off a rotten section and filed them square.
  4. Good afternoon all, I’m refitting doors, drop glass and quarter-lights etc on my GT6 mk3 and I was wondering just what gaps to expect/go for. Are they always the same all around or different across the bottom compared to ends? Are both ends always the same? I’ve seen many with comparatively huge gaps to the bonnet and also not parallel. I assume that the rear gap is quite important as the latch Mech needs to fit around the striker plate.
  5. Hello all, I’m after assistance again. Can I remove the rear spring of my rotoflex mk3 without disconnecting drive shafts from diff, brake hoses from chassis etc? I have a factory spec spring tool.
  6. I have straight radius arms on my Rotoflex mk3 GT6 but the manual shows them as offset. Which should it be? I can’t believe I’ve only just noticed this!
  7. Evening all. I’ve swapped every one of the higher loaded bolts in the suspension for correct length ones. No more threads resisting shear liars thank you. But, the bolts refuse to go through the steel tube inside the front/lower bushes, they go through the chassis brackets though. Has anyone else experienced this? Surely I don’t need to take out the tubes and ream them.
  8. Hi everyone, I'm looking for a radio for my Spitfire Mk3 (1968 year). Any suggestions? Where to buy? etc..... Thank you !
  9. GT6 mk3 rotoflex. Which hole in the (body) bracket should the radius arm be bolted through? Top or bottom?
  10. Hi guys. I’m assuming that the best way to get a grommet around the wiper motor wiring on a GT6 mk3 is to extract the push-ons from out of the multi-plug and slip a grommet over the (much smaller) connectors / wiring rather than the multi-plug, and then to insert the elec conn’s back into the plug. Has anyone done it this way or is there a better way? Picture attached, not my car though, the lower of the two grommets. As always, your help is most appreciated.
  11. My rear nearside flexible is somewhat tight /different to o/s. Is this union correctly mounted? Should the fixing be the other side of the vertical port, giving more room for the flexible to operate in?
  12. I've just fitted some wider rear wheels to the back of my gt6 and have noticed that the driver side rear wheel is almost an inch further back in the wheel arch than the passenger side. Passenger side seems quite central where as driver side is noticeably not centred. So my question is how much movement do you have on the chassis to body mounts and could I loosen mounts and square up both rear wheels to the wheel arches? The car drives straight and doesn't scrub the tyres so I'm assuming it has to be body mounts not being in line rather than rear suspension components not being in line also my car doesn't appear to lean at all either side so I'm hoping I can just loosen the body mounts and nudge the driver side of the body back 1/2 inch to an inch Anyone have any experience with fitting a body to a chassis and know how much play there is? Thanks Dan
  13. Not impressed with the connectors on the looms available from the usual so I made my own. Aforementioned connectors offered next to no retention. I made my own loom using Japanese bullet connectors which fitted perfectly into the round recesses of the switch and, using a blade to open the connector a few thou to aid push-on, the retention on the switch is perfect too. I bent the ends a tad which helps to guide the wires u/neath the switch and into the lever. The whole lot runs through 1/4” pvc sleeving which goes through the lever and does a splendid job of protecting the wires.
  14. My car seems to demist the passenger side of my windscreen at least twice as quick as the drivers side if not faster and I was wondering if anyone else has this same issue? I've checked all the hoses and all are sealed with no splits, my heater flaps are adjusted evenly and still I have superior airflow from the passenger side to the point where I've considered longer pipes and swapping them over (if there's space to do so) The only cause I can think of is the fact that the passenger side outlet from the heater box is higher up than the driver side
  15. Anybody know how the drain tube fits to the GT6 mk3 fuel filler. I only have a boss (on the left in picture) with a plain, thru hole. Am I missing a fitting of sorts, perhaps a pressed-in steel tube? I have a rubber elbow (with nylon tube) for the breather to push onto the barbed fitting on the right, which is screwed in.
  16. Okay so my car is a 1972 gt6 mk3 with overdrive and Rotoflex rear and recently I've noticed a lot of play in the Gearstick and when leaving for work today it's lost the spring for selecting reverse which makes it awkward for selecting 1st as I have to lift the stick to avoid selecting reverse. Now I've had bother with jumping out of 4th gear occasionally and it seems to have been getting slowly more frequent and the other day jumped out of 2nd a couple of times too. So my question is has anyone got any ideas of what may be broken / caused this? I might pull the tunnel in the morning when I get home or may just make do this week and tackle it this weekend depending on how I feel in the morning
  17. My front passenger brakes squeal when braking and squeak slightly without braking so I ordered a set of anti squeal shims only to find when fitting them that I have 2 different calipers on my car the driver side has larger diameter pins that hold the pads than the passenger side Now I know this isn't right but I'm struggling to work out what calipers i should have and ill probably need to replace yhe brake pipe to the caliper as im under the impression that one side is metric and one side is imperial My car is a 1972 Rotoflex gt6 What I've read is 72 onwards is metric and up to 72 is imperial Which do I go for?
  18. My car seems to be running okay so I cleaned my plugs last week to check the colour so after 100 miles this is the colour of them and was wondering should I lean the mixture off? The outer ring is black with carbon but the centre and electrode is virtually uncoloured I've always been told to aim for a tan/brown colour and these plugs are making me think it's rich and lean at the same time? What's your opinion? Thanks
  19. Hi everyone, I've got a really confusing idling issue that I just cannot find the solution to. It's on a Mk3 Spitfire (FD engine) 1300. The engine seems to have developed an irregular misfire and/or very rough idle (please see the two videos below, as they show it better than I can explain!) which I cannot seem to remedy, no matter what I do. The revs can vary wildly (sometimes as much as between 1500-3000rpm) running fast or nearly stalling, with no apparent pattern as to when it will/won't misfire. I have swapped in and out various components (list below) and re-set and adjusted the timing, mixture, and idle speed screw settings every which way I think I can with no results. There is good supply of fuel to the carbs, and the car has run well on this same tank of fuel before (so I don't think it's contaminated) and a good spark from each plug. If I had to describe it (and I am clutching at straws at this point), I would say it seems like the timing is maybe 'wandering', with the time of spark meaning the odd late/early/missed detonation. It's an AC Delco distributor. I don't have much knowledge about distributors, but could the centrifugal weights sticking cause this sort of issue? I haven't had chance to get my timing light out yet to see if there is anything noticeable there. Video 1 (Revs) Video 2 (Engine bay) I have swapped around and used various different combinations of the following components: - HT Leads (old set & new club supplied set) - Plugs (original Champion N9YCC & new Bosch WR7DC+) - Condenser (original & two new ones) - Points (original & club supplied set) - Distributor cap (original & club supplied) - Rotor arm (original & club supplied) - Coil (original & new Bosch) I have recently replaced the following: - Float chamber needle valves and floats. Also cleaned thoroughly, breather hole clear, valves moving freely, appears to be good fuel flow. - Air filters. I have reverted back to standard from the K&Ns I had fitted before, until I can get things running right. I have been running without air filters while trying to get the idle to settle. - Cable from coil to points (had no effect) - Cable from distributor base plate to outer casing (replacing the cloth covered original, had no effect) I have also done the following engine jobs, but before this problem arose (so hopefully won't be a part of it): - Replace manifold gasket and seal with blue Hylomar - Replace and seal around carb/manifold gaskets with Loctite 574 - Thoroughly clean and check carbs, needles, jets, etc. - Fuel pump - All fuel lines, mostly rigid copper line with Codan R9 flexible hoses in the necessary places. - In-line fuel filters (glass), one after tank, one after pump. Both appear full with good fuel flow. Any thoughts greatly appreciated... Matt
  20. I've been looking at replacing my rear be a drums as I think they have warped but when looking i can only find drums for sale at over £50 each and that seems steep to me so I was wondering if anyone else has replaced theirs and if so where did they get theirs from and how much were they? I've found A pair of spitfire drums for £20 so surely gt6 drums can't be 5 times more expensive
  21. My cars a mk3 gt6 currently running a 2000 saloon engine twin hif carbs with distributor from what I believe to be a 2500 pi engine with no vacuum advance and was wondering is there any real difference between a standard gt6 distributor to the pi distributor? The reason being is I seem to have a flat spot around 3500rpm and a lack of power after that and I'm trying to work out possible causes Any input is greatly appreciated thanks
  22. I've been looking at the availability of wheels in the standard 4x95.25 pcd on my mk3 gt6 hand noticed that bigger triumphs run a 4x114.3 pcd and was wondering if anyone knew if the hubs were interchangeable between the 2 The other option I've seen to change pcd is the alloy hubs drilled any pcd I've seen for sale ( can't remember what site) and running adapters on the back but ideally I'd like to stay away from adaptors Has anyone on here changed their pcd or is everyone running standard wheels?
  23. So today I fixed my overdrive which is now working flawlessly but unfortunately after only a handful of miles my engine has decided to bite the bullet and will certainly need rebuilding My current engine is a 2500 pi engine running twin hif44 carbs so ideally would like to replace it with another 2500 but would consider any 2000 engine As well if anyone has one lieing around that they'd part with for some money's I intend on rebuilding my current engine anyways but for quickness would like a 1 in 1 out to retain use of the car whilst rebuilding
  24. Okay so after adjusting the brass arm for the overdrive to take out the slack I can now manually activate my overdrive with the back wheels in the air idling in 4th gear by pulling on the arm but my solenoid will not pull it but will hold it if switched on and pulled over manually if you understand what I mean? Is this a faulty solenoid? Would a new solenoid have the strength to pull the arm on its own? Or are there other issues at play here?
  25. So my car jumps out of 4th gear every now and then and was wondering if anyone had any ideas what may cause this? It only ever happens in 4th and not every time but I'm planning on pulling the transmission tunnel soon anyways to see if I can get my overdrive to work and also check my reverselight switch so I will be having a look to see if there is anything obvious that's causing it to jump out but any suggestions of what to check would be much appreciated thanks
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