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Found 6 results

  1. After my run out yesterday, I checked the temperature around the engine with my IR temperature probe. Specifically around the sump and bottom of the engine. I know oil has to be hotter than the water in the engine so that any moisture gets driven out - but what temperature should it be? I was reading over 100'C (107-110) at the sump in places - though the bottom of the sump was slightly lower than 100 - the top hose was around 85'C I discounted the temperature on the exhaust manifold side at nearly 150 on account its proximity! This was after a 15-20 mile run at upto 70mph on a dual carriage way but the last 5miles was between 30 and 40 due to the speed limit, so I assume would have cooled down slightly?
  2. Hopefully someone can advise. I have read up on this and the suggestions range from "don't worry about it" to "rebuild the engine"! Herald 13/60 When starting from cold the idle oil pressure is around 30 PSI, which seems to be about correct. As the engine gets hotter the idle oil pressure drops. Eventually reaching 0 PSI if stuck in traffic. At 3000 revs it's always 35+ PSI whether hot or cold, it's only the PSI at idle that changes. The car is not losing oil and runs fine. I have recently changed the oil which has made no difference. I am using "Comma CLA20505L 5L 20W/50 Classic Motor Oil" (this was recommended somewhere, but can't remember where). So my first thought is the oil itself, getting too thin when hot. Any recommendations? Second thought would be the oil pump, but I'd rather not change that if it doesn't need it. Are these symptoms a problem anyway? Thanks in advance.
  3. I'd appreciate latest thinking and advice / recommendations for oil for the differential (also gearbox / overdrive). Many thanks -
  4. I've spilt some oil on my tarmac drive - not just the Spitfire, but my old Land Rover as well. I used cement to soak up the majority of it, but I do have a large stain and some smaller drops. Whats the current wisdom for getting most of it off - given that I don't want to damage the surface anymore than it already is. I have done a search as I thought I'd read something about it - but can't find it now.
  5. In the W/shop manual, there’s a reference to a special oil for d type od and box. I certainly didn’t use anything special in a recon box way back in ‘89. Does anyone know of any such oil? I’ve bought standard mineral for mine.
  6. Hi, Im just getting my 13/60 ready for its first MOT in a long long time, I did the timing and tweaked the Carb and I was planning on giving it an oil change however. Im a bit disappointed by how much oil is already seeping from the front of the engine. I know it is fitted with the Triumph throughput system where you put it in the top and it comes out the bottom but its more than a drip. On inspection it seems to be the usual culprit, stripped threads on the Sump bolts into the sealing block. Ive done a search but Im still unclear how hard this would be to change in situ ? Are the replacement alloy sealing blocks worth the money and are they standard for all the 4 cylinder engines ? Also I read something about wooden spacers - or did I dream that bit. The oil that is in the engine is very thin, Ive bought some decent 20/40 so that may be less leaky but I will need to address this at some time just trying to gauge how much of a job. As usual all asistance gratefuly received Steve
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