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Showing results for tags 'rotoflex'.
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Hi. I'm recarpeting my Mk2 GT6 and all is going well but the carpet supplied for the heelboard has a lot of work to do, covering the tie rod mounts, passing over the transmission tunnel and up onto the shallow deck leading to the back axle 'hump'. Has anyone got any photographs of this area please? Thanks Ian
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rotoflex and bearing replacement GT6 mk2
Bob Horner posted a topic in Chassis, Suspension & Steering
One of the car's radius arm brackets had sheared on my rotoflex GT6. I supposed I could simply remove the existing bracket and fit new. As many with more experience will know, that was a vain hope. I therefore took off the hubs and in doing so, realised the rotoflexes were a bit cracked so decided to go the whole hog and rebuild the lot. Before I did this, I looked in depth at all the posts on here and elsewhere and they were very helpful and, when you get your head around how it all works and fit's together, its a logical, if slightly time consuming job. The purpose of this post is to point out a few issues I had and perhaps fill in some of the gaps in what I could find on the web. Getting the drive shafts off is pretty straightforward but you really need a spring lifter to do this. One man job. You also need to jack up the hub as well as the spring to get the spring eye bolt out easily - there is a sweet spot of alignment that a combination of the two produces it seems. I used a decent sized trolley jack under the lift and a smaller trolley under the hub/vertical link (see later for reassembly) Getting out the radius arm bracket bolt than runs through the hub is impossible without a press (or it was for me and countless others). I ended up giving them to my friendly local garage and it took him 5 mins and cost a bottle of wine. He told me that he put it on a press, applied pressure then heated it and they slipped out. I got 2 new brackets from what used to be Jigsaw on Ebay. The wishbone bolts came out fine and replaced with polybush from Paddocks. Fitted ok but supplied with 4 washers. I assumed one at each end and one at either inside end of the bushes but could not get those two in. In the end loft them off. Long bolts all treated to copper slip. Rotoflexes genuine from Robush - there is a thread on here about that. One of the reasons I rebuilt the hubs was because I didn't trust the previous restorer. It turned out that on one drive shaft the threaded end had been shortened and thus the nut was no where near fully engaged (presumably stripped it trying to put it together without a press). I had to buy a replacement near side vertical link (completely mullered - as was the wishbone - presumably trying to get it off). There was only a spacer and no shims on the shaft so not certain end float was correct. One of the hubs had seen better days so bit bullet and bought 2 new ones from Canleys (far cheaper than Rimmers). I pulled the hubs with the TSSC hub puller. I'm glad I had one as not sure if a normal three legged putter would have done it (a lot of people say it should but I was glad of the heftier item). The new hubs were far tighter on the shaft than the old ones. I found it impossible to get them fully on the shaft without using a press (only needed a couple of tons). Doing the job without a press would have been impossible for me and it certainly helps as you need to put it together and pull it apart a few times. It also means you don't knacker the driveshaft threads by using them to pull everything into place. In terms of shimming the hub, there is loads of helpful stuff on line. I used the Canley method but I found it hard getting an accurate measure using feelers. It looked like I didn't need spacers but on assembly and checking against the back plate with a dial gauge I ended up with a spacer. I found it confusing the talk of inner/ outer races and bearing cups etc. However, basically you need to fit the cups and bearings and then press through the hub to check the measurement. One point to remember is not to mix up your backplates! I did and had to take is all apart. Doh! The Canley end nuts and washers were a good investment (see another thread on this). Putting it back together was ok once I lined up the two jacks as noted above. At one point the angles are just right so you can slip a bolt through (a tap or two on the top of the link may be needed to get it all aligned) No brute force needed but I did need to get the car low enough a the rear to get enough lift on the spring (I have a hydraulic ramp). The other option would be to stand the spring lifting trolley jack on blocks. All in all, not as bad a job as is made out in my experience. The trickiest bit is the shimming and I would invest in a press if I didn't have one. Bob -
Hello, I need your help, the donuts and the leaf on my triumph vitesse was in a very bad state. So i decide to change it. I bought new donuts and found an old original leaf in very good condition. Now i try to reassemble but without success. I can't attach the vertical link to the leaf. The drive shaft (inner shaft) touch the chassis an blocked the rotation of the vertical link to allowe to attach the vertical link on the leaf. When i remove the inner shaft, i can attach the vertical link on the leaf. I already used the tool to raise the leaf so i don't understand why i'm blocked. I'd like to know if you have some tips and tricks to reassemble. If you want, i 'll make some photo to explain my problem. Thanks for your answer Alex
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Would any of you kind souls be able to tell me the position of the bolt hole in the chassis bracket for GT6 rotoflex. Anyone got side or end elevation drawings? WSM only has top and a rear but it’s obscured. The Vitesse one gives a vertical dim from the top of the chassis.
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Hello all, I’m after assistance again. Can I remove the rear spring of my rotoflex mk3 without disconnecting drive shafts from diff, brake hoses from chassis etc? I have a factory spec spring tool. -
I have straight radius arms on my Rotoflex mk3 GT6 but the manual shows them as offset. Which should it be? I can’t believe I’ve only just noticed this!
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GT6 mk3 rotoflex. Which hole in the (body) bracket should the radius arm be bolted through? Top or bottom?
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Hi guys, another problem with my ‘72 GT6, the driveshafts are touching the chassis on max droop. Damper mount conversion is fitted, are the dampers too long?
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Hi, As part of my Spit6 (MK2 rotoflex rear suspension) rebuild I'm looking for the following 3 parts NOS if possible: 148976: “bracket assembly, mounting, radius arm to vertical link – LH” 149051: “rear hub and stud assembly” 214817: “back plate assembly, RH” I have the opposite hand of each of these, and one hub, so would be great to be able to make up the sets.. For the bracket assembly I'd be happy with a good secondhand original one (with the brake hose location features). Many thanks, Richard.
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Please will one of you kind souls either tell me where to get the rotoflex hub end float setting spacers (not the 0.003” shims) from or, tell me the inside and outside diameters, and I’ll get some made. Part #’s 152483 to 7 in the attached image. Thank you.
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I've just fitted some wider rear wheels to the back of my gt6 and have noticed that the driver side rear wheel is almost an inch further back in the wheel arch than the passenger side. Passenger side seems quite central where as driver side is noticeably not centred. So my question is how much movement do you have on the chassis to body mounts and could I loosen mounts and square up both rear wheels to the wheel arches? The car drives straight and doesn't scrub the tyres so I'm assuming it has to be body mounts not being in line rather than rear suspension components not being in line also my car doesn't appear to lean at all either side so I'm hoping I can just loosen the body mounts and nudge the driver side of the body back 1/2 inch to an inch Anyone have any experience with fitting a body to a chassis and know how much play there is? Thanks Dan
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Hi all, A couple or so years ago the rear spring was replaced on my rotoflex GT6. Knowing the new springs have a habit of giving positive camber, I specified a half-inch lowering block. Over the first 6 months the spring was fitted, the rear gradually lowered to the point where the block could be removed and retain negative camber. I've procrastinated about doing the job for a while, but really should get around to it. My question is how best to go about the removal? I really don't want to take the spring out completely, so have been mulling over the following approach: 1. Jack up the rear of the car 2. Remove the spring holding plate and studs from the top of the diff 3. Carefully partially lower the car so the spring lifts sufficiently from the diff to remove the lowering block 4. Jack up the rear again, replace the studs and bolt down the holding plate (ensuring the locating pip locates in the top of the diff) Will this work? The car has CV shafts in place of the rotoflex couplings, so less force involved there! Thanks in advance for your thoughts! Gully
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My front passenger brakes squeal when braking and squeak slightly without braking so I ordered a set of anti squeal shims only to find when fitting them that I have 2 different calipers on my car the driver side has larger diameter pins that hold the pads than the passenger side Now I know this isn't right but I'm struggling to work out what calipers i should have and ill probably need to replace yhe brake pipe to the caliper as im under the impression that one side is metric and one side is imperial My car is a 1972 Rotoflex gt6 What I've read is 72 onwards is metric and up to 72 is imperial Which do I go for?
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Does anyone still have an unused Canly Classics CV kit they intended to fit but maybe didn’t and then you sold the car? How about a used kit that you removed from your Vitesse / GT6 before you sold it? I am interested in either option if anyone still has one. Good money waiting for the right one. Please e-mail paul@theclassicmoulton.co.uk with your items for sale, ideally with some pictures so that we both know what we are dealing with. Thanks. P.S. I know other kits are still available but I specifically want the (now obsolete) Canley Classics kit. ? -
I've been looking at replacing my rear be a drums as I think they have warped but when looking i can only find drums for sale at over £50 each and that seems steep to me so I was wondering if anyone else has replaced theirs and if so where did they get theirs from and how much were they? I've found A pair of spitfire drums for £20 so surely gt6 drums can't be 5 times more expensive
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Hi all, my current chassis is rotoflex but i will be changing that to a non rotoflex chassis and adding brackets so i can still use all the rotoflex suspension. i've no issues with this bit. however the rotoflex handbrake cable guides are on the body and the non-roto chassis has them on the diff. mounts. the million dollar question.... can i just use a non-roto handbrake cable ? i can't see why not but i thought i would ask. cheers paul
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Well, my Vitesse passed its MOT with a couple of advisories: Binding front calipers and rear wheel bearing play getting excessive. I made a start investigating the rear wheel bearings. I had gone to some trouble fitting and shimming new bearings at the same time as converting from Rotoflex donuts to CV driveshafts, so was surprised that they were a problem. Anyhow, I pulled the nearside hub only to reveal the shattered remains of the spacer ring and some mangled shims, hopefully you can make these out in the attached photo. It looks like I must have got something fairly catastrophically wrong during assembly. The next step is to remove the driveshaft to find the rest of the spacer ring and probably replace the bearings. The driveshaft conversion were fitted when at the rolling chassis stage and now I am a bit baffled as to how to remove them with the body in place. I have it unbolted from the diff but can see no way to manoeuvre it past the diff to withdraw it from the vertical link. Can anyone out there who has done this conversion point me in the right direction for taking a shaft out? I am hoping it is not necessary to disassemble the vertical link from the car in order to proceed but it is looking increasingly likely If anyone has any suggestions as to what is likely to have gone wrong and caused the damage, I would love to hear them too. Cheers, Keith
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Rotoflexes changed + UJs on both sides - Currently the Rotoflexes still have metal banding . Is it best to remove banding when installed or prior to install ? Thanks in advance Paul -
Can anyone help? I'm in the process of a nut and bolt restoration of my Mk3 GT6 which has rotoflex drive shafts fitted. I like the idea of the Canley Classic CV kit, but wondered if anyone has any experience of fitting and running them, which they can share with me before I commit to buy.
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From the album: GT6Chris
