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  1. I need the (3.8" x 1 1/2" ? ) stud which screws into the left hand carb body (1980 Spitfire 1500) and has a hollowed out 1/2" hex head into which you insert the end of the choke operating connecting shaft to the other carb. The stud on mine is sheared off flush in the carb. As you can tell I don't know what it's called and can't really find it mentioned anywhere ! The ones for the throttle connecting shaft are most likely the same. Perhaps you can even tell me what the darned thing is called to make my search easier ? Thanks, Tim
  2. I’ve bought a mocol thermostatically controlled oil cooler for my spitfire 1500 now I know I probably don’t need one but let’s not go there. question is, does anyone have any pictures and advice as to how to fit it - pictures would be great as it comes with no instructions what so ever!
  3. Hi guys, I'm thinking of selling my 1977 Spitfire 1500 but I don't really know how much its worth. I bought it last year as a project for £3800 and now it has an mot and rebuilt engine, mostly new interior. The paintwork isn't great and it has the GT6 bonnet. I don't know why but I'm only 18 and that's what came with it when I bought it before I knew more about the cars. The rear diff has an oil leak although I can fix it and the seals are relatively cheap. The overdrive works and the gearbox and clutch are good apart from a slight rattle in first. The tyres all have plenty of tread on them and I have a hard top and a soft top. Although you cant see out of the back windows on the soft top and the hardtop really wants some TLC - it's the wrong shade of red and theres patches of rust at the bottoms and a tear in the head lining. The rear carburettor wobbles although doesnt leak. The headlights have been changed to h4's. The best thing about it is there is no rust and no underseal as the bloke I bought it from changed the majority of the panels. I have all the receipts for what the previous owner did to the car and it was something around £6000 in total. If any of you have an idea how much it's worth or you need more pictures or descriptions I look forward to your replies. Thanks in advance,Luke
  4. For years I've been having problems with the parking switch on my wiper motor. Normally lasted 6 months.. Now I had bought another one and fitted it during our lockdown. It already failed after 2 weeks (and only put my wipers on once to clean my windscreen) Opened it up, cleaned it all up inside (burned contacts) & it was working again... until the first rain shower last week.. So... I've now put in a microswitch. But its very very tight ! Last 2 days been testing it and works great. I do need to make another one, as i need to remake it a bit to be even better. Original vs. prototype no.1
  5. Hello again. So, after 15 years or so, the old girls is running again. I’ve started on the fluids, greasing etc. I’m waiting for oil, coolant, new hoses etc so I thought I’d look at the brakes and I’m confused! Just for a change. The disk callipers at the front have silver bleed screws (one of which seems completely seized - is replacing just a matter of unscrewing the old one and fitting a new one?). The rear passenger hub seems to have a standard bleed nipple (whatever the ‘standard’ is) but the driver’s side drum doesn’t. It just seems to have a screw head. Is that normal? Should I replace it for a nipple? I haven’t refurbed/replaced the master cylinder (yet) but I remember the brakes being pretty rubbish before. Is fitting a servo easy/recommended/possible/worth it? Cheers for your help again. Jonathan
  6. Hi all. Since a few weeks we have been in lockdown here in Belgium. I drive a Spitfire 1500 (1978) as a daily car, 114.000miles in 6,5 years and now just done over 187.000 miles on it (yes original engine, pistons and head never been off). Engine needs another head because of oil use, but will be done on another time. I had some rust on the front valances (where new 7 years ago). As i know that they rust away at always the same spot, I bought 2nd hand fibreglass ones. Fixed them, repainted them etc
  7. I replaced my wiper motor today as the old one was well past its best and didn't park and looked crap to be honest. Got one from Canley classic's plugged it in and it didn't work Took the cowling off to check the switch - no good - but did have power - didn't have power at the plug apart from the permanent feed for the park function. After much faffing and frustration - came down to a poor earth. The bolt the two earth's are tied to wasn't fully home. 🙄 Need a beer now as I could have finished it about an hour earlier 😜
  8. When I put the dash back in the car it looks like the flasher relays took a bit of a hit and the case fell off the one and the indicators now operate very slowly! So I thought I'd just replace them -- but can't work out what I need! There are two units - so match up with the wiring diagram I have, but not sure if I just need two GFU2124 or one and a GFU2204 Any one any ideas!
  9. The fuel gauge on my car has been replaced and hasn't read very well for ages- doesn't get anywhere close to full when it is and doesn't indicate empty either! So this afternoon, as I had run the tank down a fair bit (Though less than I first thought!) I dropped out the sender and eyeballed the float and adjusted it by bending the wire - both down a bit and towards the back of the car - as I think it was hanging up on the front edge of the tank where it expands. I also measured the resistance - extreme reads of 30ohms and 240ohms - I thought standard was 20 and 200Ohms so not sure how much that will affect anything and even if you can get a direct replacement! Now is reading just under 1/2 full - the level is above the shelf inside the tank. So I'm going to run it some more and see what happens - and I have a spare tank in the boot should I actually run out!
  10. When I took the car out last weekend (and previously to be fair) I noticed a ticking from the back passenger side. Its not prop as the speed isn't that fast compared to the road speed any thoughts as to what it might be? Cv joint I guess is favourite? The bigger question is, can I still drive it safely like that? i was hoping to do a 160mile round trip tomorrow to a model air show near Grantham - especially since it’s its 42nd Birthday 🎂
  11. This might be obvious but when fitting the seat base to the rear of the frame should the basket go under or above the 2 tabs on the rear of the seat frame ? Trying hardctonfit drivers side but it keeps popping out and up at the front.
  12. I think I’ve probably asked this before but anyway. I asked my dad today about making me a new wooden dash for my Triumph Spitfire 1500 it currently has what looks like a plywood dash varnished to look like real wood. It doesn’t look bad but isn’t right. He used to be a teacher and cabinet maker. He still restores antiques. Trouble is he is getting on a bit and his wrists are going due to arthritis and probably abuse over the years hitting things! And he is 82 this year So if I’m going to do it I need to get him to do it sooner rather than later. He has a massive selection of veneers - everything from burr walnut, burr elm to oak and Australian black bean - and some even he doesn’t know what they are. He has enough of the burrs to mirror match them. i think they were originally walnut? So should I keep it original or go for something a bit different? - though I’ll not be going mad! It’s not a show car - certainly not original and will never be that way.
  13. Hopefully the right place for this one! With the approaching Christmas holidays - I've been planning some work on my Spitfire 1500. Replacing front and rear shocks, and front springs - have already bought all that is required to do the job - I hope! Change the studs for the new wheels I've just bought. Get the bonnet to fit better - its too low on the one side so rattles on the bumper - just needs adjusting. And the headlamps need to be made to fit better - they are a little looser than I'd like. And I need to fit the oil pressure gauge properly And drive it!
  14. When I replaced the front shocks, I found the one brake disk shield bracket had sheared off - hence the rattle I'd been unable to trace! The question is, stainless steel or standard - given that standard seem to be almost impossible to find (Except Canley Classics!) I still have to replace the studs to fit my new wheels - so seems as good a time as any to change them - but what nuts for the standard wheel (The spare basically) - I've got Freelander ones to go on. Though do you need to split the disck from the hub to change them?
  15. On the basis that the Club shop is now shut, I thought I'd ask here! I bought some new brackets for the Master cylinders from the Club shop and thought I'd have a look at changing them tonight whilst the bakeoff was on. Clutch came off easy enough - I have a bag of UNF bolts and thought I would replace the ones holding the cylinder onto the bracket - and can't find the right size one - even the originals won't go in. ? They go about halfway in and then go tight. I've tried some metric bolts and they are worse. It might just be that the nut is slightly distorted from being welded - but don't want to wreck them without being sure of the size! Oh and this is for a Spitfire 1500.
  16. I ordered a Heritage certificate a week or so ago and it arrived this morning. Makes for interesting reading! It was built on 20th April 1977 - registered in August that year. It was originally Brooklands Green - it's now Blue. It had a beige interior - now its black. Options included Radial tyres, Centre arm rest, Map light (Where's that?) Dipping interior mirror (Not looked!) Exterior mirror, inertia belts and laminated windscreen. Also has the original engine number - Fm/85847-HE - which I know was changed before I had it and I've changed it since. Door key isn't the same as the original either!
  17. My engine seems to be using a lot of oil. But I can’t see where from. I can’t see any blue smoke in the exhaust (except when I was checking the inlet manifold for leaks and I dribbled some on the joint). I’ve not had a following car checking yet but the amount that I seem to be loosing I would expect to see a cloud behind me! i can’t see any obvious leaks - apart from an odd spot around the gearbox and diff areas there is nothing to note particularly. I do have a drip tray under the engine when it’s parked up, but that I think just has a bit of water in it. But I do have to check it again as it’s not disappeared in the heat so might be oil - it just doesn’t look like it.
  18. I bought a Moss Honed rocker shaft kit a week or so back and decided to replace it as the original has been a bit tappety since the engine was replaced. Fairly simple job thought the pedestals were quite tight both off and on. Some interesting score marks on the old shaft and quite a bit of pad wear which won’t have helped the setting of the tappets. Old rockers on the bench with new adjacent. new in the car. Old shaft and rockers on the bench I’ll need to check the tappets again once the engine has cooled down and check to make sure the oil is getting up ok. Early days but sounds better - and since setting the clearance on the dizzy drive it seems to have better oil pressure - but I’ve not got the engine proper hot yet as I just went for a short run to my parents and back.
  19. Ever since I’ve had my Spitfire 1500 the fuel gauge at best reads just over 1/2 tank. I had a look today and I have 10v at the sender when disconnected and when it was pretty much empty- I think! (dipped it and it had about 2” fuel in the tank) it was giving out about 5v - which to my simple mind suggests 1/2 tank. I’ve not checked it again now I’ve filled it up to be fair, but any thoughts on the potential issue.
  20. Following on from guppy’s oil issue I decided to check the end float on my dizzy drive tonight. Pulled out the dizzy, removed the pedestal and removed the existing gaskets. Pulled the drive gear out, Slipper a washer over the drive end and dropped it back in again. Refitted the pedestal nipping up the nuts and measured the gap with feelers and got 52thou in the gap. Removed the washer and measured it’s thickness and it was 60thou - I used a dial gauge because my calipers don’t do thou ?. Then I checked the feeler thickness and they measured 56 thou. So by my calculations I don’t need any gaskets in - but I put the thinnest I have which is 6thou so that’s an endfloat of 10thou which is too big? I did measure the gasket thickness using the dial gauge in the same way and it came in at 4thou. So on that basis it’s about 1thou too big a gap So Does it need a gasket?
  21. I have a real weird issue with my oil pressure on start up. Which I think I've worked out what is happening. Basically, I start the engine and the oil light goes out almost straight away. The pressure gauge builds up, then falls, then builds up, then might fall again, then builds up and sits at 90psi ish. Then as it warms up drops back to 50psi ish - even hotter and it drops another 10psi or so. The lower the oil level, the more times its seems to oscillate. I think what is happening, is that the pump basically is pulling the oil out of the sump quicker than its dropping back in - until its warm enough. I've had a look at the dipstick tube to see if the marks are in the right place and compared it to the engine I took out. Current engine on the right, old engine the left. Current engine tube length 30mm or 1 3/8" Old tube length 1 1/4" So given the marks on the old and new are about the same in the engine, any ideas why the oil return is slow? Assuming that the oil level is actually correct in both cases! The old engine came out of a Dolly, the new one is a Spitfire engine. I am going to change the oil anyway soon and put Millers 20/50 in which might get done next weekend unless I get some time one evening this week.
  22. I've taken the Spitfire (1500) out this afternoon to some friends and went past a speed radar sign and I'm pretty sure it said I was doing 35, when I was showing 30 on the speedo. So wondered what the rough speed should be for say 3000rpm in 4th (non OD)? When I'm at 3000rpm, the speedo is showing about 50, but based on the attached spreadsheet, 3000rpm should be about 55/56mph? gearspeeds.v2 lr.xls
  23. Following on from this topic but not the same, I have an issue with my column. When I changed my steering wheel, I found a couple of screws wedged in around the top mount by the crinkle bit of the column - around UKC5664. Clearly they shouldn't be there and so I removed them. Now I've been out in the car, I do get some rotation on the outer column - steering is fine in that there is no slop so the bushes etc seem ok. But when the steering column mounted switches rotate a little - its disconcerting! The obvious thing is to replace UKC5664 and UKC5665 - but they are NLA - but they shouldn't be a really tight fit so that the column can collapse in a head on (Not planning on that one!) So the other place I can see to tighten or replace something is the bottom mount and the felt pad (608223) - but is this really going to do anything? Or am I missing something? I really don't want to bodge some screws back in the top mount!
  24. I've recently fitted a "new" engine to my spitfire - it came with carbs so used them as they look fine and everything moves nice and free (especially the choke, which on my old engine tends to stick - and the throttle which i had to fit extra springs to get it to close the butterfly properly) But I've noticed some things - like they don't seem to have overflow pipes like my old ones. But I think they are newer - I've not checked the part number yet. Anyway, apart from that, any ideas what needles and I guess springs, should be fitted? The cam is just a Newmans road cam, so not wild, but the exhaust is a 421 stainless manifold and has been matched to the head.
  25. I've had slightly low oil pressure since installing the new engine - today I decided to fit a new spring (And was slow to rise after the initial start) - I bought a couple of new ones last year of different poundage to fit in the old engine. Took the one out of the old engine and compared the spring with the "new one" and seemed very similar - took the one out of my new engine and is similar - but about 1/4" shorter So fitted the new one (out of the bag) - started her up and the oil light went out straight away (its been stood for a month I would think) though did come back on briefly - but the gauge was rising nicely and then went out. Slight rev and the pressure then rose to around 90psi - before it would get to about 60 on startup and a good few seconds with the pressure low and the oil light on (But no rattles from the engine) Let it idle whilst i checked for leaks and the like and after a few minutes was happily sitting at 25psi at idle. Before it was 10 after the same sort of time. I've not driven it in anger yet, but hope to later on. What sort of pressure should I be seeing? And what length should the springs be?
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