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Found 6 results

  1. I'm trying to work out what is the most likely cause of the rear end sag on my mk3 Spitfire, and work out why it seems to have gotten a whole lot worse. I've been fixing the car on the driveway for the past few weeks, and had already noticed a bit of a sag on the offside rear compared to the nearside rear. I could get three fingers between the top of the tyre and wheel arch on the passenger side, but only two on the drivers. Today, I took it out for a spin (only acouple of miles) too see how it was running, all felt ok (maybe a little bit 'floaty' at the back end). Now both tyres are sitting up inside the wheelarches, seems like hardly any damping when I do the bounce test, and both tyres appear toe out (I think that's the term, further out at the bottom than the top, opposite to when I jack it up). Is this more likely to be a tired leaf spring? Or shock absorbers? Or does it sound like something else has gone wrong? There was no knocking or bottoming out, even over speed humps.
  2. Hi, I'm trying to find a replacement inlet manifold for my mk3 spitfire 1300. It needs to be the one with the opening for the PCV valve on the top. Many thanks Matt
  3. Hi again. New day new problem, I'm having a problem with fuel pumps this time, in that they are refusing to pump any fuel when the engine is running. Both work fine on the external primer lever. The first pump was working ok, until I took it off to renew the fuel lines, and I decided to clean and overhaul the pump. Back on the car, it worked fine when pumped manually, but was not doing it's job with the engine running. I assumed I'd cocked up the overhaul somehow, so bought a new one. Same deal with new pump. I can pump fuel using the manual lever, but it won't run off engine power. Both have the same shape rocker arm to run off the cam. My initial thought was that I'd fitted the pumps incorrectly so the rocker arm was not engaging, but after some fiddling it looks like there is only one way they fit. Hook it under and bolt it in place. I don't know how I check whether or not the rocker is engaging with the cam, any tips?
  4. Hi. I seem to have developed a potentially dangerous problem with my dynamo that I can't explain. I've had some problems with starting and running recently, which I initially thought was fuel delivery related, but this afternoon I noticed an odd (not fuel) smell in the engine bay. The dynamo was hot and smoking lightly, so I immediately stopped the engine. It continued to make a bit of a crackling sound and produce smoke (had the fire extinguisher on standby at this point) before I realised I'd left the ignition on. I turned that off, and disconnected battery. After it cooled, I removed the dynamo and replaced it with an old one I had on hand. I only got as far as turning the ignition on before a little bit of smoke started coming out. Again, I disconnected the battery and left it to cool. To me, it seems like the battery might be somehow overloading the alternator in some way? Dynamo is connected the only way it can, with large spade connector (brown/yellow) to large 'D' connector, and smaller one (brown/green) to smaller 'F' connection. In terms of changes I have made recently which could have affected things, I've done the following; - Replaced coil with Bosch one about a week ago. Wired connected as per old one. -Replaced control box (after testing this and dynamo using method described in WSM) about a month ago. Wired up as per old control box (see pictures) The only other thing I've done is charge the battery (off the vehicle) which was showing 3/4 charge when I put it back on. It's very odd as I've had the car running fine and well with the wiring in this configuration (which i believe is correct) for a while, and this seems like a new fault. I haven't made any significant changes to the wiring or anything like that. Does anybody have any ideas? It's on a negative earth mk3 Spitfire 1300.
  5. Hi everyone, this might be a bit if a basic question, but I'm struggling to find the answer. While doing an ignition system service, I noticed this connector (highlighted in picture) on the back of the vacuum unit, which isn't connected to anything. It looks like it has an 'E' next to it, and seems to be internally linked to the earth point on the top of the distributor. All my instincts say there should be a wire connecting this to an earth point, but I can't find a loose wire in the engine bay, and the Haynes manual doesn't mention a great deal about the vacuum unit. Can anyone confirm if this should/shouldn't be connected to earth? I've had some issues with a lumpy idle, and can't get the engine to idle below about 1200 rpm (hence why I'm using the club shop ignition service kit), could this have something to do with it? Maybe causing vacuum unit to not work properly or at all? Many thanks Matt
  6. Hi everyone, I'm a new member of TSSC and a first-time Spitfire owner, So I just thought I'd introduce myself any my new project; My new car is a 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3, currently finished in a rather poor coat of (I think) Primrose Yellow. The original paint code (26) I believe refers to Wedgewood Blue, It seems a previous owner decided to have a go himself with some spray cans at some point, and the effect is....not good. In terms of history, the previous owner insisted that the indicated mileage of just 2,700 was correct, though i'm naturally dubious. Apparently the owners for the first 30-years were in the Royal Navy, and only used the car as a runabout when back in Portsmouth. Even so, I don't believe a 40-year old car with six previous owners on the logbook could have done so few miles, so i'm working on the assumption that 102,700 is more likely. Having checked the previous MOT history as far back as I can, the car seems to have been MOT'd every year since at least 2004, but has covered only a little over 100-miles in that time. So it has spent most of the last 14-years (at least) standing around rather than being used. Mechanically, the engine sounds good and seems solid, if a little down on power, but does not seem to have been cared for in recent years. I spent the bank-holiday weekend working through When I removed the air filters, they were marked up as last changed in 1993! so I'm working on the assumption that it has not been properly serviced in the last 25-years. The incorrect oil filter was also fitted, and when I drained the oil it was very thin and black. When the cooling system was drained, only about 2-litres of 'brown soup' came out, and several of the hoses were almost completely blocked, as well as the thermostat being absent. The dynamo also seems to be completely dead. The electronics are in right state, again, I think one of the previous owners had a go himself at some point. There are random wires and connectors all over the place, additional switches of indeterminate function have been added, and there are poor earths (either rusty or painted in the home-respray) everywhere. Due to the issues listed above, and the unclear history, I've decided to adopt an 'if in doubt, replace with new' policy as a general rule. No doubt this will lead to me becoming intimately familiar with the deeper depths of the Rimmer Bros catalogue over time . As the car has already been significantly changed by previous owners, I'm not going to go for hardline originality, but will concentrate on making it as useable as possible through sensible upgrades where appropriate, but i'll try and keep it looking fairly standard externally. The jobs i'm currently working on or have planned (in no particular order) include; 1) Oil change, with correct filter and grade of oil (I used Millers Classic Sport 20w50). 2) Replace faulty dynamo, and voltage stabiliser if required. 3) Remove aftermarket electric fans. 4) Replace radiator with new full-width kind, along with all cooling system hoses. 5) Replace water pump. 6) Install correct thermostat. 7) Replace air filters/box with K&N filters, set up carbs to suit, reduce idle speed (currently idles at 1500-1800 rpm!) 8) Check HT-leads and re-gap spark plugs (all seemed OK). 9) Fuel gauge not working - check gauge, wiring, earths, and sender unit. 10) Trace wiring for unknown switches, remove or rewire as necessary. 11) Check complete braking system (seemed fairly poor performance, despite front discs/pads being nearly new, seized calipers?) 12) Check suspension system, and lubricate as required. 13) Check gearbox/diff/etc oil levels, and lubricate as required. 14) Possibly replace steering wheel for smaller item - I'm quite tall and have some difficulty getting in/out. 15) Respray - The current paint finish is really poor and i'm not a big fan of the colour. I'm thinking of either going back to the original Wedgewood Blue, or for Old English White. 16) Additional mirrors - I think they are known as overtaking mirrors(?) placed on each front wing. I cant see the passenger side mirror at all from my seating position. 17) Interior - Re-cover seats (a few tears in each). 18) Hood - doesn't seem to fit right, leaving a small gap at the front at top of windows/windscreen. Remove and re-fit to see if that helps. 19) Locks - There appears to be a different key for every lock, and the bootlid lock does not work. Replace with new if available. 20) Hopefully...drive it as often as possible! I have owned a few classics in the past (Austin Allegro, Lambretta Li125), but have not had one for a few years now. I decided a Spitfire would be a good/easy project to get me back into things, and I was able to find a solid enough example of the model I was after (Mk3 1300) to play with. I'm probably going to be a regular on these forums, asking for help with the random gremlins that will now doubt arise. I'm also hopefully going to try and get to some shows this summer, though as a visitor rather than an exhibitor (the photos don't do justice as to how bad the paint finish is), and hopefully get to meet some of the TSSC community . -Matt
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