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Information Required for Disassembly and Re assembly of the Vertical Link Hub Carrier Rotoflex Vitesse 2L Mk2


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Hi all, I may soon have to disassemble the vertical link/hub carrier on my rotoflex Vitesse. The problem is that the Official workshop manual that I have does not deal with this and is probably an earlier version. Does anyone know at what time the manual changed to include this information and where I might be able to purchase one  My manual does not have a date just a part number 512947 on the first page. Perhaps there was a supplement covering the dismantling and re assembly issued later? Thanks for any advice.

Pat

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Just wondering which aspects of the procedure you need extra information on. If one takes sections 3.122 to 3.126 in conjunction with 4.121 to 4.126 (of the 512947 op.s manual) are those sufficiently comprehensive? Or am I missing what's missing?

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21 hours ago, PatK said:

Hi all, I may soon have to disassemble the vertical link/hub carrier on my rotoflex Vitesse. The problem is that the Official workshop manual that I have does not deal with this and is probably an earlier version. Does anyone know at what time the manual changed to include this information and where I might be able to purchase one  My manual does not have a date just a part number 512947 on the first page. Perhaps there was a supplement covering the dismantling and re assembly issued later? Thanks for any advice.

Pat

Pat

The Canley Classics Website has some useful tips on how to set up the rear Hub End float if you plan on replacing the wheel bearings, here's a copy and paste

Note 4

"Replacement wheel bearings should be re-shimmed to give the correct end float/preload. In most cases replacing the equivalent shims and spacers from the old unit will give an acceptable result but if the hub has been replaced or the unit assembled from parts, then the following procedure should be followed. Fit bearing cups into vertical link. Fit outer race and outer shell into vertical link. Fit hub making sure it is fully down. Fit inner race. Put spacer and shims in place - measure across bearing inner race with straight edge and feeler gauge such that the hub and shims are 0.001 - 0.002 higher than an inner bearing race. Fit outer axle shaft fully home and tighten nut to 90ft/lb. You should feel VERY slight play - if you can feel end float, reduce shims - if preload, increase shims. When correct, take apart, grease and fit inner seal.

One final word of warning, don't assume that every garage (even classic car specialists) is capable of rebuilding roto wheel bearings. We have seen some shocking bodges over the years carried out on customers stuff brought into us after recent work by 'professionals'.  You need to assertain that who ever  you trust your rotoflex with has a proven track record with the stuff, is regularly practised in the art, and has a ready stock of shims/spacers, etc before he attacks it.

You have been warned!"

With regards to dismantling, ideally you will need a Hub Puller to remove the outer Hub/Bearing assembly, although I have seen the Outer Driveshaft drifted out with a large Hammer and a Brass drift, but a puller is better.

The Mk2 Hubs are not as tight a fit as the earlier Swing Axle hubs which definitely need a Triumph Specific Hub Puller

If your not planning on changing the Wheel bearings and the end float is current set correctly, then reassembly of everything is in the same order as removed, including any Spacers or Shims

You will need to Press or Drift carefully the outer Hub/Bearing back on to the outer Drive Shaft as there is an Interference fit on the splines (Don't try and use the large Nyloc nut to pull the hub into place or you are likely to strip the threads!) 

In fact check very carefully the condition of the thread on the outer drive shaft and the condition of the Outer Hub if you are swopping the Bearings

Good Luck and keep us posted         

Gary

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22 hours ago, PatK said:

Hi all, I may soon have to disassemble the vertical link/hub carrier on my rotoflex Vitesse. The problem is that the Official workshop manual that I have does not deal with this and is probably an earlier version. Does anyone know at what time the manual changed to include this information and where I might be able to purchase one  My manual does not have a date just a part number 512947 on the first page. Perhaps there was a supplement covering the dismantling and re assembly issued later? Thanks for any advice.

Pat

The part number quoted is correct for the GT6 / Vitesse manual, but the Mk 2 / Rotoflex information was added in the 2nd issue. The final edition is the 3rd issue, which includes the late GT6 Mk 3 supplements.

Gully

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9 hours ago, chrishawley said:

Just wondering which aspects of the procedure you need extra information on. If one takes sections 3.122 to 3.126 in conjunction with 4.121 to 4.126 (of the 512947 op.s manual) are those sufficiently comprehensive? Or am I missing what's missing?

Hi Chris, many thanks for your reply, I have just checked my ops manual 512947 ( Big red cover with large Triumph and GT6 letters on the cover ) and have found that it goes from page 3.121 and jumps to page 3.201,  that section has been removed, also Chris I have just found that the section 4.121 to 4.126 is also missing. It looks like these sections were removed before I bought the manual on e bay. So I have no information on how to overhaul the vertical link and set it up correctly. I also have a Haynes manual and although they have a drawing of the rear rotoflex drive section, there is not one section in the manual on how to do the job. Did Triumph issue a service bulletin on how to do this job? It does seem strange that both sections have been removed from the manual.  Thanks Chris.  Pat

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1 hour ago, Gully said:

The part number quoted is correct for the GT6 / Vitesse manual, but the Mk 2 / Rotoflex information was added in the 2nd issue. The final edition is the 3rd issue, which includes the late GT6 Mk 3 supplements.

Gully

Thanks Gully, I think my manual is the second issue, but reading page 2 about amendments, it would seem that someone has removed the relevant sections 3.122 to 3.126 and 4.121 to 4. 126 possibly to amend them and failed to do so. I guess that I will have to look for another official manual on e bay. Thanks Gully.  Pat

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2 hours ago, Gary Flinn said:

Pat

The Canley Classics Website has some useful tips on how to set up the rear Hub End float if you plan on replacing the wheel bearings, here's a copy and paste

Note 4

"Replacement wheel bearings should be re-shimmed to give the correct end float/preload. In most cases replacing the equivalent shims and spacers from the old unit will give an acceptable result but if the hub has been replaced or the unit assembled from parts, then the following procedure should be followed. Fit bearing cups into vertical link. Fit outer race and outer shell into vertical link. Fit hub making sure it is fully down. Fit inner race. Put spacer and shims in place - measure across bearing inner race with straight edge and feeler gauge such that the hub and shims are 0.001 - 0.002 higher than an inner bearing race. Fit outer axle shaft fully home and tighten nut to 90ft/lb. You should feel VERY slight play - if you can feel end float, reduce shims - if preload, increase shims. When correct, take apart, grease and fit inner seal.

One final word of warning, don't assume that every garage (even classic car specialists) is capable of rebuilding roto wheel bearings. We have seen some shocking bodges over the years carried out on customers stuff brought into us after recent work by 'professionals'.  You need to assertain that who ever  you trust your rotoflex with has a proven track record with the stuff, is regularly practised in the art, and has a ready stock of shims/spacers, etc before he attacks it.

You have been warned!"

With regards to dismantling, ideally you will need a Hub Puller to remove the outer Hub/Bearing assembly, although I have seen the Outer Driveshaft drifted out with a large Hammer and a Brass drift, but a puller is better.

The Mk2 Hubs are not as tight a fit as the earlier Swing Axle hubs which definitely need a Triumph Specific Hub Puller

If your not planning on changing the Wheel bearings and the end float is current set correctly, then reassembly of everything is in the same order as removed, including any Spacers or Shims

You will need to Press or Drift carefully the outer Hub/Bearing back on to the outer Drive Shaft as there is an Interference fit on the splines (Don't try and use the large Nyloc nut to pull the hub into place or you are likely to strip the threads!) 

In fact check very carefully the condition of the thread on the outer drive shaft and the condition of the Outer Hub if you are swopping the Bearings

Good Luck and keep us posted         

Gary

Thanks Gary, that is so kind of you to put this on your post, it was most helpful and I have copied it and put it on file. Many Thanks Gary.    Pat

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1 hour ago, ahebron said:

I am assuming that the hubs have been removed from the car as no one mentioned the oxy/acetylene, hacksaw and BFH.

Thanks Hebron,  no the hubs have not yet been removed from the car, which will be a next winter job, as the doughnuts have a few small cracks in them, and I will probably replace them with CV joints. If you thought that removing these hubs was a pain, then compared to removing the hubs from a Lotus Elan with the Colin Chapman alloy struts and hubs, this has got to be easier. I do however have a proper hub puller and have removed one of them before.  I was really looking for the official Triumph data on re assembly and re shimming should it be necessary to renew the bearings when I do the job.  Pat

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