Having trouble removing sump plug.

[Pete Lewis]

can you  get someone  to  weld a big Nut on the remains????

Pete

[JohnD]

1 hour ago, johny said:

oh dear, must be in a bit of a state now then? Heat next?

See above

[johny]

15 minutes ago, JohnD said:

See above

yes I know you already suggested it, well done👍

[Wagger]

You really need to try and file two sides parallel and flat. Then use the Moles that have flat jaws. Run the engine to working temperature and spray freezer on the plug if you can find some. From your photo looks like left side of sump, so the moles need pushing towards the rear of the car as it is a RH thread. Not always obvious which direction when laying under. Plug needs to rotate anticlockwise.

Otherwise it's gonna be weld something to it, or remove the sump.

Hate this method but, you could pump the sump oil out like some do on their moderns via the dipstick hole.

 

 

Edited May 15, 2022 by Wagger
Clarification.

[Mike]

Problem is I’m doing this lying on my back with the car on axle stands. I’m rapidly thinking take to my classic car guy and pay him to do it. The other thing is the replacement part turned up yesterday(see picture) that someone on page 1 suggested. It doesn’t appear tapered so need to order another. I’m positive the part number quoted on Page 1 was not correct now it’s landed.

 

[Pete Lewis]

thats definitely  the wrong type of plug 

 

washer  sealing plug      James Paddock Limited - Triumph Stag, Spitfire, TR6, TR7, GT6, Vitesse, Herald Parts and Spares Specialists. DRAIN PLUG MAGNETIC C/W SEALING WASHER ALL MODELS(155660)

std plug 

MkI 2 Litre Engine, Manifolds and Carburettors : Canley Classics

114774

and many others 

Pete

[Chris A]

Yes the Paddock version is correct for a non tapered version. Tapered is also available. The photo of the version I posted is tapered, no washer needed nor space for it. The supplier I bought it from used the same code for it as the Paddock one. I think mine was bought from a French source.

[PeteH]

Took some photo`s of my Engine Earlier, For reference, and the Plug does indeed appear to be a tapered square head type:-

[Colin Lindsay]

2 hours ago, Mike said:

Problem is I’m doing this lying on my back with the car on axle stands. 

If you can get sufficient access, file two of the opposite faces perfectly flat so that they'll take a spanner, the best fit you can get - preferably top and bottom faces.

Put the spanner onto the sump plug, as horizontal as you can make it, put a jack under the spanner, and jack up. Once the entire weight of the car gets onto it, it'll shift.

[PeteH]

If you have access to a welder?. Drive a large nut over the damaged square, weld the nut to the the Plug, you can then use a socket to remove the plug, which with any luck will have eased with the heat from the welding?.

Pete

[johny]

3 hours ago, Mike said:

Problem is I’m doing this lying on my back with the car on axle stands. I’m rapidly thinking take to my classic car guy and pay him to do it. The other thing is the replacement part turned up yesterday(see picture) that someone on page 1 suggested. It doesn’t appear tapered so need to order another. I’m positive the part number quoted on Page 1 was not correct now it’s landed.

Seems to be a right mess as some sites say 22G2115 is suitable for the Vitesse and even Moss describes it as tapered: Plug, oil filler & level, tapered, 3/8" BSPT (moss-europe.co.uk)

[Mike]

Thanks Colin and Pete, I wrongly took the advice of Johny earlier and ordered the part number he gave the link to. I even double checked the part number he gave. That’ll teach me. 
 

I’ll order a magnetic one from Canley tomorrow and have one more go. Oddly though my originality obsession is making me lean towards a like for like replacement. 

[johny]

4 minutes ago, Mike said:

Thanks Colin and Pete, I wrongly took the advice of Johny earlier and ordered the part number he gave the link to. I even double checked the part number he gave. That’ll teach me. 

Only passing on info from various websites and, as always, everything on here is only free ADVICE....

[Iain T]

As I said previously a Gold Plug IP03X is the correct thread and taper, made of quality stainless steel and has a very strong magnet. Opie oils and many others sell it. It isn't a  standard fitting.....it's better! 

Getting enough leverage while laying under the car can be difficult. I can't budget my propshaft to diff nut and bolts, the last person to tighten them must have starred in Terminator! 

Good luck 

Iain

[Mike]

2 hours ago, johny said:

Only passing on info from various websites and, as always, everything on here is only free ADVICE....

I appreciate that but maybe if unsure of accuracy then don’t post. The money is not a concern however “free advice” shouldn’t cost £4.50 inc postage. If I had not spotted it and actually managed to pull the plug without a replacement I’d have been up the proverbial without a paddle. 

[johny]

As I say theres more than one site that show the item as tapered and suitable for a Vitesse plus I recommend you always check any advice received on here (or any forum) with other people/manuals/suppliers before acting on it....

[68vitesse]

11 hours ago, Iain T said:

As I said previously a Gold Plug IP03X

If it is NPT it will leak, it needs to be NPTF which is designed to be fluid tight without a sealant.

Made this mistake when I drilled and fitted a drain plug to the differential.

Removed some badly damaged drain plugs with a Stilson, as previously suggested, then welded a large nut on.

Regards

Paul.

[Wagger]

Looking at the photo of the actual plug, a very small stilson would be required as there is not a lot of clearance all round.

 

 

[Josef]

3 hours ago, 68vitesse said:

If it is NPT it will leak, it needs to be NPTF which is designed to be fluid tight without a sealant.

Made this mistake when I drilled and fitted a drain plug to the differential.

Removed some badly damaged drain plugs with a Stilson, as previously suggested, then welded a large nut on.

Regards

Paul.

I thought the sump plugs were BSP (3/8” I think?) not NPT, or are they different names for the same thread?

[Colin Lindsay]

2 minutes ago, Josef said:

I thought the sump plugs were BSP (3/8” I think?) not NPT, or are they different names for the same thread?

3/8 NPT and 18TPI - have a look at this thread as there are plugs on the market that don't fit.

 

[68vitesse]

From my Vitesse manual.

Gearbox and back axle plugs listed in manual as 3/8 x 18 N.P. Dryseal plug. 

https://www.asme.org/codes-standards/find-codes-standards/b1-20-3-dryseal-pipe-threads-inch

 

 

Regards

Paul.

 

 

[Wagger]

Until Mike (the poor guy) can get the plug out, this is a bit academic. I have just been out to my spanner sets and found that a 15mm twelve point socket and flat ring spanner will fit a 1/2inch drive bar. A 7/16 a/f one fits the 3/8inch square drive. Dunno what the size the plug is, but I have hammered a socket onto one of these and then used a Stilson or a curved mole grip on the socket itself.

Try a/f, metric and whitworth. There may be a really close one. Worn ones will be tapered, so would hammer on more easily.

[Badwolf]

Oy, who's been nicking my piccys????...bill is in the post!!

[Colin Lindsay]

17 minutes ago, Badwolf said:

Oy, who's been nicking my piccys????...bill is in the post!!

Bill is in the post and the Czech is in Prague.

Wait until you find one of your pics watermarked by, and featured on, another Triumph site... that really gets your goat up!

[daverclasper]

41 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Wait until you find one of your pics watermarked by, and featured on, another Triumph site... that really gets your goat up!

What!. Don't know what the watermark actually means?, though I guess some rights to the photo?.

What site, if your allowed to mention?