Bonnet stays.

[Paul Amey]

In my kit of bits for putting my Vitesse together are two thick rods with a long adjustment nut in the middle. They are bonnet stays. Now does one end attach to the bonnet hinge assembly and the other to the cross member mounting near the front top wishbone  fitting? Any advise on this would be appreciated, thanks.

[johny]

Theres a great diagram and photos and instructions in the free to download Triumph workshop manual from vitessesteve.co.uk. Far easier than trying to describe how to build one on here👍

[Gary Flinn]

Paul

This should Help?

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fforum.tssc.org.uk%2Ftopic%2F7189-vitesse-bonnet-hinges-what-goes-where%2F&psig=AOvVaw1tettTX6RTNp3GZ6p7-mNN&ust=1652800336081000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CAoQjhxqFwoTCJjlrpmn5PcCFQAAAAAdAAAAABAD

Regards

Gary

[Paul Amey]

5 hours ago, Gary Flinn said:

Paul

This should Help?

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fforum.tssc.org.uk%2Ftopic%2F7189-vitesse-bonnet-hinges-what-goes-where%2F&psig=AOvVaw1tettTX6RTNp3GZ6p7-mNN&ust=1652800336081000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CAoQjhxqFwoTCJjlrpmn5PcCFQAAAAAdAAAAABAD

Regards

Gary

Thank you.

[Paul Amey]

5 hours ago, johny said:

Theres a great diagram and photos and instructions in the free to download Triumph workshop manual from vitessesteve.co.uk. Far easier than trying to describe how to build one on here👍

Thank you.

[Colin Lindsay]

19 hours ago, Paul Amey said:

In my kit of bits for putting my Vitesse together are two thick rods with a long adjustment nut in the middle. They are bonnet stays. Now does one end attach to the bonnet hinge assembly and the other to the cross member mounting near the front top wishbone  fitting? Any advise on this would be appreciated, thanks.

They run from the front turret bolt - the bolt above the front top wishbone arm (remember to push it through before fitting the wishbone as you'll never get it in there after the wishbone is fitted) and under the engine side valence which the same bolt holds in place, to the inside face of the lower bonnet attachment where the bonnet tube attaches. One end has a sharper angle than the other so it's the side that goes to the turret and angles downwards. Before fitting take them apart and clean / grease the threads, it makes them easier to adjust when fitted. Remember they're a reverse thread on one side so that as you move the centre nut section each arm moves in the same direction at the same time so both in or both out as you turn. You can't get them mixed up as the threads will not engage, but you can damage them trying. I usually (recent activity excepted!) adjust the bonnet first with the rods detached, then adjust the rods so they'll slip straight onto the end of the bolt, and use them only for very fine tuning if any.

[daverclasper]

6 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

adjust the bonnet first with the rods detached, then adjust the rods so they'll slip straight onto the end of the bolt, and use them only for very fine tuning if any.

My bonnet/wing to door gaps have always been on the large side. Maybe need at least 5mm pull in. The current gaps are parallel.

Possible/worth a try, adjusting the rods?

Ta 

[Pete Lewis]

lets just say the tie rods control the  angle of the drop links and should connect to the bonnet pivot bolt  not the chassis bolt of the drop link 

the angle of the links adjusts the height /gaps fit it anywhere else and the first speed hump will wreck your fight  to make things fit 

Pete

[Colin Lindsay]

38 minutes ago, daverclasper said:

My bonnet/wing to door gaps have always been on the large side. Maybe need at least 5mm pull in. The current gaps are parallel.

Possible/worth a try, adjusting the rods?

Ta 

It's worth a try but there's a lot of geometry involved and as I've found recently, disturb one part and you disturb others. As the rods go back they also raise, due to their angle. Any of my other Heralds, all 1200s, adjusted perfectly first time, but the most recent 13/60 was a long drawn-out nightmare mostly due to PO bodges. Look along the top of the scuttle, the edge across the top rear of the bonnet, and see what the gap is like there. You can't adjust that bit no matter what the sides are like so if there's no room to move there that's it. The bit which I found caused problems recently was the rear of the wheelarches, if they hit the bulkhead they'll have to be adjusted to give any rearwards movement.

My usual MO (and this has worked perfectly well for years as a one-man operation) is to jack up the two lower curves of the bonnet tube, one jack and a block of wood to protect the paint under each, then disconnect the bonnet rods completely and loosen the bonnet brackets making sure the jacks keep the bonnet level and the gaps parallel; the rear of the bonnet will rest on the seal across the bulkhead. Loosen the bonnet cones so they can move backwards with the bonnet but don't raise or lower them. If the bonnet moves back when pushed to closer gaps (and the doors don't hit the wings as they open) - great, raise or lower the jacks if the gaps aren't parallel, tighten up the front bolt of the bracket, wind the bonnet rods so they slip over the lower bolt, fit the nut / washer and tighten all up. If it won't move, you'll have to work out what the obstruction is and if it can be overcome. You might want to protect the painted edges to avoid chipping if they make contact. I've always gapped the bonnet this way with all brackets removed and only fitted them once I'm happy all is in order; I also don't like pulling the bonnet about by turning the rods alone. Early Heralds didn't have them! 

[daverclasper]

Thanks so much, very detailed and comprehensive 

[Paul Amey]

On 16/05/2022 at 16:13, Gary Flinn said:

Paul

This should Help?

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fforum.tssc.org.uk%2Ftopic%2F7189-vitesse-bonnet-hinges-what-goes-where%2F&psig=AOvVaw1tettTX6RTNp3GZ6p7-mNN&ust=1652800336081000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CAoQjhxqFwoTCJjlrpmn5PcCFQAAAAAdAAAAABAD

Regards

Gary

Thanks Gary, I beleive your not far from me? We live in Denby.

[Paul Amey]

On 17/05/2022 at 11:54, Colin Lindsay said:

They run from the front turret bolt - the bolt above the front top wishbone arm (remember to push it through before fitting the wishbone as you'll never get it in there after the wishbone is fitted) and under the engine side valence which the same bolt holds in place, to the inside face of the lower bonnet attachment where the bonnet tube attaches. One end has a sharper angle than the other so it's the side that goes to the turret and angles downwards. Before fitting take them apart and clean / grease the threads, it makes them easier to adjust when fitted. Remember they're a reverse thread on one side so that as you move the centre nut section each arm moves in the same direction at the same time so both in or both out as you turn. You can't get them mixed up as the threads will not engage, but you can damage them trying. I usually (recent activity excepted!) adjust the bonnet first with the rods detached, then adjust the rods so they'll slip straight onto the end of the bolt, and use them only for very fine tuning if any.

Thanks, I could have a problem here then as I have not disturbed the suspension wishbone at all but have the bonnet adjustment rod hanging on a hook on the garage wall !

[Colin Lindsay]

10 hours ago, Paul Amey said:

Thanks, I could have a problem here then as I have not disturbed the suspension wishbone at all but have the bonnet adjustment rod hanging on a hook on the garage wall !

You need the bolt to be long enough to go up through the turret, the bonnet rod and the engine side valence, but because it's so long it won't fit into the available gap above the wishbone if the latter is already fitted. 

[Gary Flinn]

11 hours ago, Paul Amey said:

Thanks Gary, I beleive your not far from me? We live in Denby.

Paul

Yes, I live in Ripley so quite local to you, are you in Denby Village?

You will have to come to one of our Local Derwent Valley TSSC Meetings, not sure what's happening for the June meeting but if you fancy a run out on the 18th we are attending the new Museum at Ambergate, the Great British Car Journey also on the 19th of June it's our Peak Run, a 70 to 80 mile ride up around the Peaks

Regards

Gary  

[Paul Amey]

1 hour ago, Gary Flinn said:

Paul

Yes, I live in Ripley so quite local to you, are you in Denby Village?

You will have to come to one of our Local Derwent Valley TSSC Meetings, not sure what's happening for the June meeting but if you fancy a run out on the 18th we are attending the new Museum at Ambergate, the Great British Car Journey also on the 19th of June it's our Peak Run, a 70 to 80 mile ride up around the Peaks

Regards

Gary  

I will be at the museum I hope on the 19th. The Vitesse is nowhere near ready so I will probably attend in my XJS.

[Paul Amey]

2 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

You need the bolt to be long enough to go up through the turret, the bonnet rod and the engine side valence, but because it's so long it won't fit into the available gap above the wishbone if the latter is already fitted. 

Argh, you see the rods were in a box in the boot when I got the car, so I'm taking the wishbones off by the sounds of it. Thanks for the advice.