Replacing VL with Canley modifications

[alan.gilbert_6384]

Hi All,

Just planning my next attack on the old VLs, this time I thought i would ask before I got stuck.  I am planning (that's the first thing to go out the door when the attack starts) to reuse my stub axles on the new Canley set up.  So I've noticed a rather large taper that these fit into.  This could go one of two ways, move the nut up to the top of thread and give it some hammer, or the bloody thing is in for life, in which case i need new stub axles.

 

Has anyone got any experience or tips for this ???

Thanks very much

[Pete Lewis]

yes its a taper that gets a good grip   the threads are soft so they will deform if wacked 

i would suggest really heat the carrier  the hole always expands  more than the stub axle 

Pete

[Clive]

Unless my memory is playing tricks, I am certain I used a length of metal tube over the threads that sits on a flat ring section of the stub axle. Needed an almighty wack, but came clean out. Heat is a good idea, I should have got the old blow torch out...

[alan.gilbert_6384]

1 minute ago, clive said:

Unless my memory is playing tricks, I am certain I used a length of metal tube over the threads that sits on a flat ring section of the stub axle. Needed an almighty wack, but came clean out. Heat is a good idea, I should have got the old blow torch out...

Thanks Clive, is the tube on the wheel bearing side and the nut for the bearing used as a load ?

[Clive]

4 minutes ago, alan.gilbert_6384 said:

Thanks Clive, is the tube on the wheel bearing side and the nut for the bearing used as a load ?

No, tube over the back of the stub axle. Hit tube with medium hammer. Hard. then it pings out.

Tube has to be a good fit. It was a bit I had in my "assorted bits of metal" cupboard. Possibly a bit of steel gas pipe or similar.

[68vitesse]

Removed a stub axle on my Vitesse, broken VL, by removing nut then holding stub axle and laying the VL on a sledgehammer where the axle passes through then hit the other side of the VL with your biggest lump hammer.

Essentially you are shock squeezing the axle hole in the VL between the two hammers, hammering the end of the axle will as said only damage the threads.

Sledgehammer not essential, but a solid piece of steel i.e. an anvil is needed, violence is required.

Regards

Paul.

[NonMember]

I've done it a variant of Clive's way, using the nut to protect the stub-axle thread. I wasn't worried about damage to the nut as it's just a standard nyloc and easy to replace. A bearing puller with a slightly pointed middle will also sometimes work, particularly if you apply heat at the same time.

[alan.gilbert_6384]

16 hours ago, clive said:

No, tube over the back of the stub axle. Hit tube with medium hammer. Hard. then it pings out.

Tube has to be a good fit. It was a bit I had in my "assorted bits of metal" cupboard. Possibly a bit of steel gas pipe or similar.

Ahhh, so the tube sits on the shoulder of the stub axle, at the smaller end of the taper which goes through the VL and the outer diameter of the tube will pass through the hole in the VL when the axle comes out ?

[Pete Lewis]

you got it       it does  protect the threads 

be prepared to bounce it all round the workshop  

and after a refit   please  receck the nut after a few miles ....

Pete