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Rear bearing


cliff.b

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well you want the shaft horribly worn or really good and not somewhere inbetween😬 The needle bearing presses into the housing and has no location on the shaft so its the roller bearing that fixes where the shaft runs relative to the housing...

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17 minutes ago, johny said:

well you want the shaft horribly worn or really good and not somewhere inbetween😬 The needle bearing presses into the housing and has no location on the shaft so its the roller bearing that fixes where the shaft runs relative to the housing...

Ok. Just been reading again and think I understand. So the needle bearing should come away with the hub when it's removed and then you drift it out?

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Yes the needle bearing and outer ball bearing are both pressed into the hub/trunnion housing. The taper on the outer end of the axle is only to keep the actual hub flange (the bit with the wheel studs) in the correct place.

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12 minutes ago, Josef said:

Yes the needle bearing and outer ball bearing are both pressed into the hub/trunnion housing. The taper on the outer end of the axle is only to keep the actual hub flange (the bit with the wheel studs) in the correct place.

Right, got it now.

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yes the needle roller comes out with the hsg. the main wheel bearing is very tight on the drive shaft but the bearing is a loose fit in the hsg.

support the brg hsg in a vice and belt seven bells out on the shaft to remove it 

there are some adaptors to convert the hub puller to a bearing housing drag  but ive always managed with 2 shreaded wheat approach 

there is a dift it  back on dimension in the wsm but its just to get the shaft through enough to fit the hub and start the nut 

when done up tight it pulls the brg hsg. and back plate into the correct position

the shaft is a right tight fit  as there is no register on the shaft it sits there with all the cornering loads buy tight fit alone  

Pete

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34 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

yes the needle roller comes out with the hsg. the main wheel bearing is very tight on the drive shaft but the bearing is a loose fit in the hsg.

support the brg hsg in a vice and belt seven bells out on the shaft to remove it 

there are some adaptors to convert the hub puller to a bearing housing drag  but ive always managed with 2 shreaded wheat approach 

there is a dift it  back on dimension in the wsm but its just to get the shaft through enough to fit the hub and start the nut 

when done up tight it pulls the brg hsg. and back plate into the correct position

the shaft is a right tight fit  as there is no register on the shaft it sits there with all the cornering loads buy tight fit alone  

Pete

When reassembling, would you grease the shaft where the needle bearing is going to sit?

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Id put grease along the whole end of the shaft to help the seal and bearings all slide along. Grease can also be worked into the bearings before installation and then of course once all assembled you'll pump in grease through the nipple until the housing is full...

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42 minutes ago, johny said:

Id put grease along the whole end of the shaft to help the seal and bearings all slide along. Grease can also be worked into the bearings before installation and then of course once all assembled you'll pump in grease through the nipple until the housing is full...

Does the taper & key need to be kept clean and grease free

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its worth a check that with all the pulling and pushing the hub flange has not been bent   

or drum wont fit flush  etc  if bent they can  be skimmed in a decent lathe  ( studs out ) 

make sure on re assy that the unused square hole in the trailing shoe is at the bottom  ie opposite way up to the leading shoe 

common they can be upside down 

pete

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3 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

support the brg hsg in a vice and belt seven bells out on the shaft to remove it 

Always wondered about this if I understand it correctly?. If it's a tight bearing on the shaft, then does it not stress the race a lot, as the load is taken up by the inner bearing area/part?. 

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As the bearing is located in the housing theres not much else you can do as theres no way to pull on its inner race as would be kindest. Even the manual shows a special tool that pulls on the housing while pushing the shaft through the bearing although of course this is less stressful to the bearing than whacking. However its all a bit academic as in the end most people would put a new bearing in even if the old was not the problem and this would be pushed in using its inner race. 

Note though that the thread on the end of driveshaft does need protecting if whacking as its soft and theres another recent thread on here showing a mangled one☹️  

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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

its worth a check that with all the pulling and pushing the hub flange has not been bent   

or drum wont fit flush  etc  if bent they can  be skimmed in a decent lathe  ( studs out ) 

make sure on re assy that the unused square hole in the trailing shoe is at the bottom  ie opposite way up to the leading shoe 

common they can be upside down 

pete

Yes, one shoe on each side was upside down when I got the car, along with a host of other things that were done incorrectly.

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youre cheating    its OFF !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!   

 many need to be left on tight overnight hoping its popped of by the morning 

others bounce and chase the thing for hours 

next you will be telling us the shaft just fell out the bearing .......oh so simple     NOT   for the rest of us     some jobs are fight it to a standstill

luck you 

Pete

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1 hour ago, johny said:

It must have been off recently! Or was the nut not fully torqued up?

Well it was part way through a body off refurb when I got it last year, so it could well have been apart then.

But if so, why has it failed now? Might be clearer when I get it fully dismantled.

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