1969Mk3Spitfire Posted June 16, 2022 Report Share Posted June 16, 2022 Does anyone have any experience of using this test, if so, what for and was it helpful and informative? Any recommendation of a Brand? They are plentiful on ebay for around £25......any good for occasional use? I'm trying to track down a sooty plug issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 16, 2022 Report Share Posted June 16, 2022 well can be useful but a normal compression test would give you good results but if an oil control ring has failed i doubt either would show that up if the compression rings were all Ok you get correct compression but wont remove oil from the bore have you tried a colour tune if there is oil in the burn you get a good flash of yellow showing up ???? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted June 16, 2022 Report Share Posted June 16, 2022 Cant see any advantage of a leak down tester (uses compressed air supply to pressurise cylinder) over a conventional compression tester except that you would need the first if for some reason you cant spin the engine over on its starter motor. Surely the latter should give a more accurate idea of the engine condition as its in movement plus of course it doesnt require an air supply... With a compression tester the accuracy (so quality and price) isnt that important as youre comparing cylinder readings as much as anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wagger Posted June 16, 2022 Report Share Posted June 16, 2022 You are gonna get the same people (including me) repeating themselves. It sounds like your plug is sooting up due to oil in the chamber. The cheap checks are to see if you can wag the inlet valve fom side to side when it is closed with the rocker box off. That will identify a worn vave guide. If you can see the guide, start up and observe if it is sliding up and down. That will identify if it is loose. If it is loose or worn, then oil will be sucked in every time the valve opens. If those tests yield nothing, then it requires head and sump removed in order to remove the piston and examine the oil control ring. The state of the bores and combustion chambers should reveal differences. A temporary fix may be to fit a different grade of plug on that cylinder. One that gets hotter. I cannot remember which way the numbers go but I know that N4's were hotter that N5's on my bikes. This is a tedious problem and I do sympathise having had a similar experience recently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now