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GT6 Mk1 and Mk2/GT6+ Parts Catalogue is it a worthwhile purchase


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Hello All,

I been busy getting my GT6 called Bertie on the road now that summer has really arrived. I recently purcahed via the club shop the Triumph GTMk1,2&3 and the Vitesse 2-Litre workshop manual which is MAGNIFICENT (beats the Haynes manual [blue cover] hands down in detailed photo and illiustrations.). In the back of this workshop manual I disovered the reference to Spare Part Catalogue see attached image.

Who has bought this and is it good / good value? and is it an essential companion/must have

My primary interest is to find part numbers for bolts nuts and fixing. Fror example, finding the part numbers for the bolts holding my air filter box to my Stromberg CD150, finally after much googling they are the same part as a Dolimite 1850 and purchased them from Volksbolts. Another challenge is finding the right size screws for the Petrol pump diaghram - the chaps who on the car before me seemed to use one size screw driver regardless of the size head and same with the philips screw driver, so they need to be replaced once I have knowledge. 

Thank you 

 

John

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I have an original GT6 Mk1 catalogue which is invaluable for the exploded diagrams plus the part number; not only do you see how things fit together, and what's missing, but the part was often used on other cars and can be obtained by using the part number as a search; often more cheaply too. 

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1 hour ago, Badwolf said:

I also have a full parts list, but these days tend to try the C*nley online version first. It also has the advantage of breaking your heart and wallet when you see the prices!

Am I the only sneaky sod who confirms the part number from the diagram then searches elsewhere for cheaper? :)

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26 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Am I the only sneaky sod who confirms the part number from the diagram then searches elsewhere for cheaper? :)

I thought that's how we all did it! I have even done a 'blanket' internet search for a part number, but as we know putting the word Triumph in a global search can bring up some rather 'interesting' results

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All,

Thank you for you guidance and comments above, I took the plunge and ordered the Parts Catalogue and it arrived today. Very pleased with the diagrams / Illustrations as well as the part indexes. For benefit of future readers to the forum I have attached some pages.
 

I smiled with @Badwolfcomments about the heart break on knowing the prices of parts wh en using  C*nley online version of the catalogue. My concern with the C*nley online catalogue is how many parts say "Not Available" and no third parties seem to see an opening/opportunity to produce them. For example, Rimmer Bro's and Paddocks cant even source me a Mk1 Choke Cable (I pulled too hard and the plastic handle came off the cable where it had been swagged, now arildited back on as a temporary fix).

Thanks 

John

 

 

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Try oiling the cable over its full length (insitu) with a cable oiler as used on M/Cycle cables in older times, you'd be surprised how easy the choke operates. Just watch out for the oil weeping out of a non plastic sheathed outer winding cable sheath, plenty of rags to protect the carpets etc.

Attached is pics of the cable lubricator with an extract from an article I did for my local clubs magazine. 

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the trouble with many of the chokes is the open wound sprial outer is routed via the heater intake plenum 

in comes the rain and the cable rusts inside 

its easyenough to pull the cable out and grease it then fiddle it back in getting a greasy cable all over the dash and hands  

to sleeve it with some tube where it breaks out into atmosphere is a worthwhile improbement 

some  repro cables are now sleeved with a light plastic sleeving 

the design was never expected to be in use 50years on   

Pete

 

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Pete I always had issues with removing the piano wire choke & heater valve cables, when trying to re-insert it it always got stuck on the internal spiral winding, it was easier after straightening the inner cable end (lightly hammering on an anvil) and filing it into a point so the ragged edge from a sheared cable end wasn't an issue, even then it reqd a  bit of push and pulling to get it through making me wonder how much grease got thro to the end of the cable/sheath?

Hence I still use the scooter/motorbike lubricator with protection rags, appears to last upwards of 10 years between repeats but that is with the milder Aus weather& garaged cars! 

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