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cooling hose/thermostat housing help


garypowell
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Hi guys, please forgive me if this seems a very simple problem I should have solved myself. Hopefully I can attach a photo to help. Basically I have just purchased a GT6 MK3 and in the process of going through everything to put it back on the road after 7 years of being off the road. I am scanning all the topics carefully before asking questions but being new to the forum may miss some topics. Tonight I fired the engine up and filled the cooling system to check all the hoses for leaks etc. What's a little puzzling for me is that there seems to be nowhere for the hose that comes from the radiator filler to go to, there is an obvious overflow pipe and bottle missing but I'm sure the larger hose should go somewhere. I searched for pictures of the engine bay and found some thermostat housings have 2 hose facilities but some have just 1, if mine had 2 then the hose would have somewhere to go. Any help would be welcomed, I don't want to run the engine too much without this being solved first.

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This is discussed an illustrated on page 113 of JohnThomason's Spitfire anfd GT6 "Guide to Originality", where it is described as a means to overcome airlocks due to the radiator filler being lower than the water level in the cylinder head.

 

If you have any difficulty finding one, let me know.  I have one I'll never use!

 

John

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Thanks John, I have found that book on Amazon so will order it to go with my Haynes manual and GT6 gold portfolio book, I reckon between them three I should get all the help I need. The link Clive provided for the thermostat housing seems a good price and it seems to be in stock but many thanks for the offer. Of course I will keep the other one just in case I experience the air lock issue.

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Good shout Doug, I think for the price of a hose set I should replace the lot, I already decided to do all the fuel lines and will probably overhaul the full braking system as the brake master cylinder is empty so there is a problem somewhere. I also thought the cowl at the front of the rad looked out of place and it is somehow bolted through the radiator!

I'm in no rush so will be sure to check everything over methodically, the engine has a reground crank and new pistons and runs very sweet. The feeling I got from the previous owner of 10 years is he had spent a fair bit of time and money but not had any fun time so I suppose a lot of niggley bits is a lot to face for some. I did a lot of similar jobs recently on a Midget with 22 MOT fails and although it will be frustrating at times I am sure the GT6 will be well worth it. I think it was wise to join the club, there's plenty of reference material and help.

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If I may be so bold....

 

The quality of the moulded hose sets is appalling, very short lifespan. I would happily use heater hose bought off the roll, but the rad hoses and possibly some others need to be shaped.

Not sure if silicone sets are available. Yes, more expensive, but cheaper in the longer term.

 

Worth cleaning the water system thoroughly too. A good hose flush through, including the drain tap on the block (below number 5/6 manifold, may be solid crud behind the drain and need prodding about to start it moving) and then some cleaning agent will really help. On another fori there has been talk of using the foot section off a pair of tights to make a filter for the top hose to catch crud. Worth a real thought, there will be lots of it. 

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Agree with Clive about the flush.

 

Silicon hose sets are available from the CLUB SHOP! Although they are expensive, they last along time, depends how old you are, and how long you intend to go on....... I chose ordinary, off Ebay! :mellow:  

 

When you do the fuel line there's two short rubber links that will have ceased to be rubber! one is in the passenger side rear wheel arch and the other is rising up under the sub frame towards the fuel pump. This is a better place to have the fuel filter.

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On fuel hoses, do NOT use anything marked as R6. You want R9 which is rated for modern fuels.of course the retailer will say otherwise, and R6 is suitable for injection. However,cit does not last very long at all, as the ethanol in today's petrol attacks it.

Thanks again Clive, I wouldn't have considered that. I did plan on getting the fuel lines in the pre-packed 1m kits from a motor factors and I presume they would be for modern fuels, of course after closer inspection over the weekend I may decide to do from the tank to the carbs right through and may need a full kit as I don't know just how much work the previous owner has done and sometimes it's safer to do it yourself to be sure it is right.

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