Offside front disc pipe leak.

[Stratton Jimmer]

I had noticed a slight seepage of brake fluid from the union where the rigid pipe joins the flexible pipe to the offside disc on the Sixfire. Yesterday I separated the joint, cleaned it up and refitted the whole thing. Came to bleed the brake and as my lovely assistant pressed down on the pedal, I spotted a very fine jet of brake fluid emerge from what must be a pin prick hole in the rigid pipe. Oh bother! Two tasks now, 1. Get a new pipe and 2. fit new pipe. So here is the question:

Is there any easy way of changing this pipe without pouring loads of Dot5 all over the driveway? Any advice would be most welcome.

[KevinR]

I’d be more concerned about working out why there was a pin prick hole there ?

was it an old steel pipe that had corroded ?

if it was, how may other steel pipes are there left on the car just waiting to do the same thing ?

if it was a copper or cunifer pipe, did something abrade through it, and if so, is the same thing about to happen on the other side

[Stratton Jimmer]

I fear that it was abrasion. I have examined the other pipes and they are looking good. This pipe had been bent into shape - badly by the look of it.

[dougbgt6]

55 minutes ago, Stratton Jimmer said:

Is there any easy way of changing this pipe without pouring loads of Dot5 all over the driveway?

I replaced the master cylinder top with a piece of cling film and the same again over the joint once separated. A few drips, but not the whole lot! And only the worked on corner needs re-bleeding.

Doug

[Stratton Jimmer]

3 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:

I replaced the master cylinder top with a piece of cling film

Yes, causing a vacuum in the master cylinder should prevent too much leakage. What is so annoying these days is the lack of local brake pipe makers. Back around 1987 I was rebuilding my Series 2a Landy and a local spares shop made every brake pipe for me as and when I wanted them. Unfortunately, that shop closed when the proprietor retired and there's nowhere in this area that I can find who will make pipes anymore. I have ordered one from Canley.

[Patrick Taylor]

Cling film might tear when the reservoir cap is replaced; a piece of polythene bag would be sturdier.

[Colin Lindsay]

12 minutes ago, Stratton Jimmer said:

What is so annoying these days is the lack of local brake pipe makers. Back around 1987 I was rebuilding my Series 2a Landy and a local spares shop made every brake pipe for me as and when I wanted them. Unfortunately, that shop closed when the proprietor retired and there's nowhere in this area that I can find who will make pipes anymore. I have ordered one from Canley.

You should try making your own. Relatively cheap, once you have the equipment, a doddle to do (really!) and a tremendous sense of achievement when it's complete. I love doing it.

[Stratton Jimmer]

2 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

You should try making your own.

You are right Colin, although my requirements are so infrequent that it may be a false economy to invest in the pipes, fittings and tools required.

[NonMember]

You could see whether anyone in your local group has the tools? I know I'd be happy to lend mine to members of the Cambridge area.

[Stratton Jimmer]

4 minutes ago, NonMember said:

You could see whether anyone in your local group has the tools? I know I'd be happy to lend mine to members of the Cambridge area.

Good thinking. I will send a Whatsapp to them as I suspect that Colin and Ben might have such a thing.

[Pete Lewis]

a blob of blue tack to block  the resevoir cap breather hole works better than film over the reservoir  

Ive have all you need to make a new pipe but we are a good few miles apart to luton 

Pete

[Stratton Jimmer]

Thanks for the offer Pete but as you say, Luton is rather afar. Colin from the local group has replied to my Whatsapp message to say he has the makings too. He's a bit nearer - only 30 miles distant so hopefully he and I can work something out.

[johny]

2 hours ago, Stratton Jimmer said:

I had noticed a slight seepage of brake fluid from the union where the rigid pipe joins the flexible pipe to the offside disc on the Sixfire. Yesterday I separated the joint, cleaned it up and refitted the whole thing. Came to bleed the brake and as my lovely assistant pressed down on the pedal, I spotted a very fine jet of brake fluid emerge from what must be a pin prick hole in the rigid pipe. Oh bother! Two tasks now, 1. Get a new pipe and 2. fit new pipe. So here is the question:

Is there any easy way of changing this pipe without pouring loads of Dot5 all over the driveway? Any advice would be most welcome.

If not a braided or spring protected hose you could clamp it as recommended in the workshop manual but frowned apon by some fellow Triumphites🤔

[Stratton Jimmer]

It's the rigid copper pipe Johny. Part number 309700.

[johny]

yes the one from the hose to the caliper? If so by clamping the hose no fluid will come from the MC and you only have to mop up whats in that pipe itself.... 

[Stratton Jimmer]

Not that one, but the one from the three way to the flexible that runs from the nearside underneath the engine to the bracket above the trunnion.

[johny]

3 hours ago, Stratton Jimmer said:

I had noticed a slight seepage of brake fluid from the union where the rigid pipe joins the flexible pipe to the offside disc on the Sixfire. Yesterday I separated the joint, cleaned it up and refitted the whole thing. Came to bleed the brake and as my lovely assistant pressed down on the pedal, I spotted a very fine jet of brake fluid emerge from what must be a pin prick hole in the rigid pipe. Oh bother! Two tasks now, 1. Get a new pipe and 2. fit new pipe. So here is the question:

ahhh now its getting clearer😆 Yes in that case clamping wont help and I think you might as well drain the MC completely through the caliper bleed valve...

[Badwolf]

I used the cling film method for my clutch master cylinder last year. Never though of the blue tak method but not sure that my lid would be air tight. I my case, I sealed the top with a couple of layers of cling film, strong elastic band around the top, unscrewed the union and immediately fitted a nipple cover over the end of the gland. The result was no loss of fluid and no need to bleed the clutch...BUT... do bleed the brakes when done. Clutch failure is annoying. Brake failure might be fatal.

[dougbgt6]

1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

a blob of blue tack to block  the resevoir cap breather hole works better than film over the reservoir  

If you've got blue tack! 

The mirror in my daughter's last rented house fell off the bathroom wall and smashed the sink. It had been installed with blue tack! One of the many reasons they've moved.

Doug

[Colin Lindsay]

2 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:

If you've got blue tack! 

We have. Blue Tack.

[Badwolf]

Colin - Wrong web site again!!!

[Wagger]

 I salvage the blocked conical nozzles from silicon sealant 'Syringes'. Use them to block tubes by jamming them in. Old Fairy liquid caps sometimes fit over pipe ends too. They dissolve if left too long so don't leave things overnight.

[Stratton Jimmer]

All done now. The pipe from Canley arrived quite quickly. I then discovered that my smallest bender was for 1/4 inch pipe. AB tools got a 3/16 die to me in a day and a half. Pipe duly bent, fitted and system bled. I used the cling film method and only needed to bleed the offside front. I did check the other three but all were clear. The old pipe had two unnecessary bends in it. Thanks for the advice chaps.