Barry Kemp Posted November 18, 2015 Report Share Posted November 18, 2015 So I'm in the early stages of refurbishing my Herald scuttle panel and I need to remove the Delaney heater box (the square one). There's one screw at the top but appear to be two fixings at the bottom, one at each end of the box that iareimpossible to get to as they are under the box. Any ideas on how to get the box off? . Do I just lever it up - or is there some fiendish fixing I don't see? Thanks, Barry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 18, 2015 Report Share Posted November 18, 2015 Never removed a delaney but on the smiths there are 2 studs with nuts either side of the air flap box hold the base in place together with the single fix on the baulkhead. its in on your back and head up the pedals , and a 7/16 spanner and socket , There could be a flap cable to disconnect also. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david lewis Posted November 18, 2015 Report Share Posted November 18, 2015 i seem to remember that i also had to unscrew 2 nuts under the dash and also the heater distribution cable then it just lifted out .it was quite easy to do,it was also easy to fit back in except that the rubber grommet on the air intake disintigrated so i have temporarily fitted gaffer tape around it . if you are doing it to get your matrix cleaned i took mine to a radiator specialist and you would not believe how much crud was in it when they opened it up good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Kemp Posted November 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2015 Thanks guys, sounds straight forward enough other than me being upside down...reminds me of a Diana Ross song! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mishmosh Posted November 19, 2015 Report Share Posted November 19, 2015 the gaskets can be remade from neoprene. Cheap neoprene sheet- camping mat. The doughnut will need to be laminated. be careful with the valve. Fitchets have some but they are v expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Kemp Posted November 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2015 I found a supplier on e-Bay that sells rolls of self adhesive neoprene strip which you can use to make the round and square gaskets for the heater box. It is available in 20mm widths (5mm thick) so all you have to do is wind it round the circular fan housing 3 or 4 times to replicate the original gasket. The square one is easy too- just use 2 layers to stick directly on to the bulkhead. A 10m roll costs just over £6.50, so a cheap and easy fix! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted November 25, 2015 Report Share Posted November 25, 2015 Beware the foam circle types, they're only plastic drainpipe packing rings and as such are not suitable for the task. They may insulate for a time but the ones I've seen - and bought - are not waterproof. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve C Posted November 26, 2015 Report Share Posted November 26, 2015 The scuttle to heater box gasket was NLA when I did mine, and I used a good bead of silicone sealant instead. I can't emphasise enough how worthwhile either having the matrix done by a radiator specialist, or buying a new one from Demisterman online is in terms of heater performance. You often hear owners saying these cars have feeble heaters - they don't. What they actually have are heaters that are around 50 years old and knackered, and various suggested remedies, like descaling solutions etc. don't always work. I can understand owners impatient to get a restored car back on the road after expending a lot of time and money, putting the heater on the "to be done later when I can afford it" list, but while you have the thing off the car, it really is worth doing properly. I made this mistake, and after I had treated it to a new matrix and valve, I can now drive up a motorway with the top down on a cold day and be warm enough. In good order, they really are not bad. Regards Steve C Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mishmosh Posted November 26, 2015 Report Share Posted November 26, 2015 blimey steve , the only way mine gets close to that is with the toneau on. and mine works well ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Kemp Posted December 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2015 Thanks Steve, I did send my heater to the Demisterman for a re-core and what a great job he did - very fast turnaround and it even came back with replacements for the old foam strips to stop it knocking against the inside of the heater box. One of the best £80's I've spent on the car. Can't wait to get out and drive on a cold winters day! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mishmosh Posted December 18, 2015 Report Share Posted December 18, 2015 good value. thanks for the heads up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 19, 2015 Report Share Posted December 19, 2015 and just looked at a refurbed delaney and reminded me that if the valve has a capiliary sensor attached this should be in the cabin it modulates the valve to keep heater temperature constant with the variations of engine temperature . just need to find a route to the air out vent zone . not all have this Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted December 19, 2015 Report Share Posted December 19, 2015 Never knew Heralds were that advanced in their day, but then again I never knew one that was so well sealed that something like that would make any difference to the interior heat.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 19, 2015 Report Share Posted December 19, 2015 Ha, never said it ever worked Def more 70s than 60s maybe its just evolving later replacements Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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