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escort van diesel starting problem


foshi

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purchased thursday told ran fine . delivered went to start  yesterday turn key glow plug light out crank over 3rd time starts seems like running on 3 cylinders for around 15 secs then fine go for drive all ok leave to cool down same thing .so thought glow plugs got some all went well but cant get number 4 to budge stuck fast left to soak in diesel , thought would give a go with the 3 new ones still the same would that make sense with one old still in place, must admit not that clued up on diesel engines its a 1999 model non turbo . any help please paul is a 1800 no frills engine 

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Yes that last one will be a duff one as probably not been changed previously cos its stuck! You can compare their resistances with a multimeter if you want confirmation...

As for getting it out thats more complicated and its possible to do some damage in the process. Leave it to soak with penetrating oil as long as possible then try it or if no good try again with the engine hot? 

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Yep, what johny said, although I'd just add that some cheapskate diesel engines of around  that time were actually built with only three glow plugs, so if it reliably starts on three cylinders and the fourth always kicks in after 20 secs then you could just decide to live with it.

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Check that the water does not smell of diesel and that it does not recede every twenty miles or so. My first diesel had a cracked head on cylinder four. This destroyed the glow plug and the piston, eventually. It was a Peugeot 305 estate. Did 54 mpg. Paid £500 for it and it lasted 10k.

Three out of four ain't bad. Meat loaf did not do that one.

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will leave for now its a iron head not alloy .so maybe might have a chance , snapped a 1/4 inch drive bar . not enough space for anything bigger unless i drain down remove the rad which best left for now i think , no smell of diesel in ex tank paul.

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18 hours ago, Wagger said:

It was a Peugeot 305 estate.

I had a 305 Van 1.9D non turbo, it was fantastic, drove it all over Europe when i worked for Cisco, died at 200K due to suspension failure.

Chap i bought it from was a Farrier, apart from the smell of Horse S**t it was brilliant.

S

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3 hours ago, johny said:

Test it electrically Paul as it may be ok. What usually happens is that one fails but the engine carries on starting ok until the second one fails and then there is a problem especially if the battery isnt too strong and its the middle of winter🙁

how do i test has power to it, but how do i know  if  its getting hot enough the other 3 where coated black so not working  correctly paul

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theyre all connected in parallel so if one gets power they all do as long as the connections are good. To test each ones resistance you have to disconnect the cables and with your mulitmeter on low resistance setting put one lead on the glowplug terminal and the other to the cylinder head. You should see a resistance of a few ohms while a failed one will have a much higher resistance...

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next on the list cambelt was changed at 40000 10 years ago. now 70000 miles on clock but should have been changed 3years ago on age, any one done a belt change apparently same as early fiesta mondeo p100 . been quoted best price £480 inc parts tempted to have a go myself seems has 2 belts main and pump belt quote was for just the main belt and no water pump . 

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Dont know about your vehicle but mine has to have the engine supported so the engine mount can be removed to allow access to the belt. The access can be quite limited and you have to work through the wheel arch. Also might need some locking pins which are inserted to hold the cam and crank in same position while belt replaced. Usually do pump and idler gear at same time as if either of these seizes the belt fails and its all over☹️

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22 minutes ago, johny said:

theyre all connected in parallel so if one gets power they all do as long as the connections are good. To test each ones resistance you have to disconnect the cables and with your mulitmeter on low resistance setting put one lead on the glowplug terminal and the other to the cylinder head. You should see a resistance of a few ohms while a failed one will have a much higher resistance...

Obtain a DC current clamp that will display 20 to 200amps. Clip it over each glow plug lead in turn. Get an assistance to switch the 'Ignition on'. The lone one will draw the lowest, then double on the next, triple on the third then 4 times on the 4th. Sometimes the junctions work loose and they don't receive a supply at all.

Typically this could be 20, 40, 60 and 80 amps.

I have used a jump lead in the past from battery +ve to the glow plug junction, start and then disconnect. This was because the relay was not operating.

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1 hour ago, Wagger said:

Obtain a DC current clamp that will display 20 to 200amps. Clip it over each glow plug lead in turn. Get an assistance to switch the 'Ignition on'. The lone one will draw the lowest, then double on the next, triple on the third then 4 times on the 4th. Sometimes the junctions work loose and they don't receive a supply at all.

Typically this could be 20, 40, 60 and 80 amps.

I have used a jump lead in the past from battery +ve to the glow plug junction, start and then disconnect. This was because the relay was not operating.

thanks will give it a go paul

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