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Cast iron welding


Roger

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Hi everyone! My 1966 Vitesse Mk I has a rather unusual repair (at least in my experience) since it has a welded repair in the engine block. I know that this Vitesse was sold new to Greece (LHD) and that it spent some time in England in the 80’s when it was painted Royal Blue (Gun metal from factory).  It is unlikely that the block cracked while in Greece, I suppose it happened after it returned to England. It would be great to learn more about the cars history, but so far nowone seems to have any knowledge about this car. I guess that the engine have been frozen without antifreeze which made the block crack sometime in the past. Who ever did the repair was a skilled welder, because it seems to be ok (but not pretty...). Does anyone on this forum know if this kind of repair is still being done? If so, by whom and how? To my knowledge is very difficult to weld cast iron due to the high carbon content, and I suppose it requires a lot of pre-heating. I suspect that my Herald engine has a small crack somewhere (water in the oil) and it would be nice if it could be repaired. If I find the crack…

Seasons greetings to all!

castironweld

 

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" Who ever did the repair was a skilled welder, because it seems to be ok"

 

No, a lucky, but not a skilled block repairer!   As your pic shows, the repairs are leaking and it looks as if there are other cracks present.    The weather DOES freeze in Greece, and IMHO that is where the damage and the repair are more likely to be have been done.   After all, a new block, or even engine would would be readily available in the UK, even today, but not in Greece.

 

And not skilled.     Those lumpy welds, however much the block was pre-heated, could have only penetrated a small distance into the cracks, if at all as shown by the leaks, and welding isn't the preferred method of repair, anyway.  That is lock and stitch, where a series of connected holes are drilled in lines at right angle to the crack, for a lock piece.   Then with the crack held closed, it is drilled out and threaded for a series of individual pins closing the crack in depth and stopping it spreading through the parent metal.

 

See: 

  Watch the succeeding two videos for a detailed view of successful and permanent  block repair.

 

 You will see that it is a precise and skilled job, that needs special tools which the Greek owner probably didn't have.  It's also costly!   Skill and precision never come cheap.  So it's usually rare blocks that get this treatment, or ones that must remain 'original'.    Triumph blocks are just replaced, but it may be that the time is coming soon when Lock'n'Stich is the preferred economic repair.  

 

Even on the Åland Islands (between Sweden & Finland), that's what I'd suggest for your car.  Find another engine, and keep the antifreeze topped up!

 

John

PS this shows that the US name for core plugs, "freeze plugs", in the fond belief that if the water freezes, the plugs will pop out and stop it cracking, is plain wrong! J.

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You are correct John, I should have written “more skilled than me” since I’m totally unable to weld in cast iron myself… Very interesting video (thanks!) That repair certainly looks a lot better than the “Greek version” done on my engine!  :D  I have never seen that type of repair before, looks good. I might be able to find a better engine in Sweden, I will check our version of fleabay…

I can also confirm your statement about the core plugs John, they certainly did not prevent my Herald block (or cylinder head) from cracking. I had been doing a short test drive with my Herald using only water without any antifreeze, and then I drained the cooling system from water before the winter. I drained the system “by the book” but there must have been a small amount of water that remained somewhere which made my engine block crack. I learned the hard way never to start an engine with only water in the cooling system, not even for a short test drive…

I'm sure it can be cold in Greece too. Here on the island the temperature can drop to about minus 15 degrees Fahrenheit (-25 Celsius) in the winter, so yes, I will keep the antifreeze topped up!

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