2nd gear "sticky on Herald 13/60

[daveg]

Hi,

During a recent holiday in my 1970 Herald 13/60 engaging 2nd gear became at times a little difficult and on a couple of occasions I just could not get it get it into that gear. Am I correct to assume that as double de-clutching did not help it is nothing to do with the sychromesh? Could the oil have become "sticky" on some surfaces? Could it be the the remote gear stick mechanism? Would some sort of flushing and cleaning out be worth a try? 

Thanks,

Dave

[Pete Lewis]

does it tend to baulk trying for first or give any grating for reverse,

   as most engaging baulks are clutch related by it not clearing 

     can you select 2nd when engine off  but not when idling ??

 

       certainly the remote  rod bushes  can make things difficult if it wont position the selector in the 'wards ' correctly 

cheap to try but tunnel off to get access under the remote housing. 

        if you get a kit watch the  gear lever cup washers some are so sharp they will cut the new nylon spherical to bits . use the old one.

 

                       pete

[daveg]

Thanks Pete,

 

No grating for first or reverse provided clutch is fully floored.

Only aware of the difficulty in selecting second when moving and changing down from third.

 

Another point which may be relevant is that about 50% of the time it will only go into first gear (when stationary) if I select second then move gearstick across to first.

 

Your comments indicate that it would be sensible for me to check that there is no air in the clutch system. (The clutch assembly was replaced about 6,000 miles ago - purchased from James Paddock so should be ok).

 

Is the kit you refer to the "gearbox remote bush kit" ?

 

Dave

[Pete Lewis]

kit, yes,  contains spherical, a nasty cup washer and some nylon bushes for the remote pivots.

    any 'baulking' is generally clutch related IE not really clearing, if the disc cant spin up/down quickly the synchro will baulk the change untill the speeds are the same, if it cant do that it will lock you out ,  ie doing its job. 

 

Pete

[Pete Lewis]

to add dropping in 3rd will probably do the same what you are doing is lessening the synchro load by moving up the ratio's this brings the disc speed closer to whats needed and  allows lower ratio engagements, 

 

    stick to thinking clutch , bleed, slave position, loss of  throwout fulcrum pin bushes  etc  for starters.

 

  Pete

[daveg]

Thanks again Pete.

Will check all these out over the winter hibernation.

Dave

[PeterH]

Is the slave cylinder position adjustable? Surely the hydraulics make it self adjusting. I've got a dragging clutch on the Spitfire. All new clutch, thrust bearing, bushes etc.

 

Peter

[Mark Hammond]

Might be wrong oil in the gearbox.  Did you use EP90 when topping it up?

 

M.

[Pete Lewis]

the clutch is all a static design so there is no real or needed adjustment.

    you can if travel is dpleated alter the groove in the slave to move it fwd. but this shouldnt make any difference as it just repositions the slave piston in its bore.  some get improvements doing this.

 

    lost travel is often the pedal clevis and pushrod holes are worn , easy to open up and fit a bigger clevis or weld upand re drill.

   

    then theres the old nutshell the Tolerance Ring on the throwout lever pivot, renowned for breaking up or dropping out.

    

     there must be some small free play on the pushrod with foot off.  this allows the master cyl to refill.

     if there is too much play you can slot the bracket  baulkhead holes and move the assy fwd, this closes the play and raises the pedal pad height.

      add stout washers to the fixing bolts to cover the slot.

 

 

       pete

[daveg]

Thanks Mark

Correct oil used in gearbox.

 

Thanks Pete,

What/ where is is the tolerance ring?

How much free play in the pedal movement is regarded as normal?

 

Dave

[Pete Lewis]

the tolerance ring is a crinkled tin bush that supposed to hold the withdrawl lever pivot pin in place in the bell housing.

   these break up and allows the pin to float or even often drop out. you can see the pin in the hsg, if you look down the side fro the top the end of the pivot pin is just visible.

 

see  on canley   item 27

 

 http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/diagram/herald1360gearbox.html&xhtmlcatalogue=xhtml/catalogue/herald1360.html&category=gearbox&xsl=diagram.xsl

 

 

free play at the pedal pad about 1/4" to 1/2" 

play between push rod and Mcyl  about  1/16th  all it needs is a 'little' to ensure the cyl  piston has returned to is 'fully off' 

 

you dont want any lost play in the pedal pivots.

 make sure the pdeal pivots are not partly siezed as this can stop the full return of thecyl.

 

if that helps a bit ? 

Pete

[daveg]

Hi Pete,

A thank you again for you responses.

Dave

[daveg]

A wee update on my second gear problem.

Fitted re-bushing kit to the remote gear lever and (I don't understand how!) but after some short drives the problem has not reappeared.

Dave 

[Pete Lewis]

keep the sperical well greased from time to time

 

glads ists agood when its a cheap fix,  not deep pocket syndrome 

 

Pete