AidanT Posted December 26, 2023 Report Share Posted December 26, 2023 (edited) Hi all, About to finally remove and swap over engines in my mk1. Hopefully a simple question, do I need to support the gearbox and exhaust system with wooden blocks? Or are the standard supports sufficient? Thx Aidan Edited May 12 by AidanT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted December 26, 2023 Report Share Posted December 26, 2023 Gearbox is coming out attached to the engine surely? Much easier. (Don't call me Shirley!) And as you're disconnecting the exhaust bracket it will need a little support. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted December 26, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2023 2 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said: Gearbox is coming out attached to the engine surely? Much easier. (Don't call me Shirley!) And as you're disconnecting the exhaust bracket it will need a little support. Doug Sorry, no room to do that - engine only! Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 26, 2023 Report Share Posted December 26, 2023 (edited) as it seams you have the gearbox left in situ the down pipe should have a support to the gearbox/clutch hsg. so that supports the front pipe the gearbox only has mounts at its rear so will need a jack of support under the clutch hsg you will need to rotate the gearbox input shaft or the engine to align the splines with the clutch disc either a small turn of the crank or lift one wheel engage 4th and turn a wheel to turn the shaft it wont need much bit there does need to be a bit of fiddling to align up keep an eye on the gap between eng back plate and clutch hsg. to be equal and parallel || not \| Pete Edited December 26, 2023 by Pete Lewis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Foster Posted December 26, 2023 Report Share Posted December 26, 2023 (edited) 45 minutes ago, AidanT said: Sorry, no room to do that - engine only! Aiden Having just pulled out my engine an o/d gearbox as a unit, I would suggest that it might be difficult to disengage the engine from the box whilst lifting the engine high enough for the sump to clear the chassis crossmember. Two possible options remove the gearbox first through the car (not ever my favoured option), then the engine can be lifted straight up (refitting the reverse procedure) turn the car round in whatever space you have, to allow removal of the engine and gearbox from the front. There may be things like the gearbox front oil seal that you might like to change whilst engine and box are separated. Ian Edited December 26, 2023 by Ian Foster update Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted December 26, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2023 (edited) If I can work out a way to take the box out to, is it just a case of unbolting the prop and the box support bracket (+ speedo cable clutch save. .....) ??? Is it really easier?? Aidan Edited December 26, 2023 by AidanT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iani Posted December 26, 2023 Report Share Posted December 26, 2023 1 hour ago, AidanT said: If I can work out a way to take the box out to, is it just a case of unbolting the prop and the box support bracket (+ speedo cable clutch save. .....) ??? Is it really easier?? Aidan obviously remove the gear lever too, but yes, it really is much easier to take both out together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 26, 2023 Report Share Posted December 26, 2023 to remove the gearbox you will need to support the back of the engine its seats out ,H frame out , tunnel out , disconnect the prop and speedo cable , undo all the clutch hsg and stater bolts remove the box out via the passenger doorway or leave it propped in the car ready to slot back onto the engine when its in but you will have to devise props for engine and gearbox to align the two you can pop n 4th and turn the coupling to align the clutch splines if you have OD its quite heavy . Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted December 26, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2023 Which would you do Pete, given the choice? I have an overdrive and could make room if i stuck the back end of the car outside the forage door Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted December 26, 2023 Report Share Posted December 26, 2023 AidanT, If you possibly can engine and gearbox together. Yu need a "Load Leveller" on your hoist and a high enough lifting point. Here's how, on my Vitesse. Note contrary to the WSM advice you do NOT need to take off the bonnet! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 27, 2023 Report Share Posted December 27, 2023 sorry choice is yours , its is easier to fit a gearbox to the engine out the car but space/room /hoist /load leveler or not all decide out as a pair or seperately as the angle of dangle needs fair space compared to a straight lift do protect the screen with some hard board , you dont want the lump to swing and crack the screen ( it happens ) have you removed the bonnet ? or propose lifting with bonnet in place ??? dont forget the 6 pot is pretty heavy lump dont scrimp on the straps/chains are you using a engine crane or block and tackle off the roof beams ?? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted December 27, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2023 (edited) Hi Pete Borrowed a 2T crane, bonnet already off along with radiator water pump etc, - will be stripping off all the ancillaries first. I have a load leveler, although not as posh as John's. I think it will do the job. Now 50 50 as to which way to go Aidan Edited December 27, 2023 by AidanT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted December 27, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2023 9 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: dont forget the 6 pot is pretty heavy lump dont scrimp on the straps/chains Fully aware of this Pete, just the block on its own is more that I could lift!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 27, 2023 Report Share Posted December 27, 2023 there is no easy solution everyone does it their way with whatever they have to help pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted December 27, 2023 Report Share Posted December 27, 2023 I have removed engine and gearbox together on my Vitesse recently, same method as JohnD, tried engine only once a bugger to line up and rejoin engine and gearbox, never again. Probably comes down to equipment, room and help available, used a bungee cord with hooks on each end to hold the exhaust out off the way, starter can catch on the steering shaft. Regards Paul. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted December 27, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2023 (edited) Thanks all Think it's going to be both then, I will support the exhaust and tie the prop so I can roll everything back inside once out Does the gear selector just unbolt, do I needed to ensure anything to ease it's replacement?? Edited December 27, 2023 by AidanT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted December 27, 2023 Report Share Posted December 27, 2023 (edited) No it comes off and goes back easily. A minor job you might want to do is replace the gear lever bush mechanism, it's a weak point, wears easily, mine needs doing. There is a kit. Doug Edited December 27, 2023 by dougbgt6 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted December 27, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2023 Thanks Doug. WSM says to put into first gear first so I guess I need to do that. BTW, is GAC5053A the right clutch alignment tool? Thx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Foster Posted December 27, 2023 Report Share Posted December 27, 2023 1 hour ago, AidanT said: WSM says to put into first gear first so I guess I need to do that. That's only if you are removing the complete top cover. You can remove just the remote with the 4No. bolts. I would also suggest you remove the starter motor to give more clearance to the top flange of the exhaust. Also remove the rocker cover (particularly if it is nice) to avoid denting/scratching it. I also swopped my usual long spin on oil filter for a stubby one. Not necessary if you have a standard filter. Easiest as a two person job and take your time. Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 27, 2023 Report Share Posted December 27, 2023 club shop align tool Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted December 27, 2023 Report Share Posted December 27, 2023 Gee you have to buy the alignment tool, most of the clutch kits I buy have one included so I now have around 3 coarse (10) and a couple of fine (21) splined tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted December 27, 2023 Report Share Posted December 27, 2023 The last one I did, (Ford Cortina) I turned up my own aligment tool from solid brass. Been used as a Dolly and Punch since then.😂 so not quite pristine now. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 28, 2023 Report Share Posted December 28, 2023 for years i used a large cadbury's pencil with a point on the end electrical tape used to make up the spline diameter have a few alignment tools and old input shafts but dont envisage any humping gearboxes if thats possible pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted January 5 Author Report Share Posted January 5 Sorry Just wanted to clarify ix it best to remove the gearstick mechanism or just the gearstick when taking engine and box out?? TIA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted January 5 Report Share Posted January 5 The whole 'remote' gear change extension, leaving a rectangular opening in the top of the box, with four studs, which I close to stop anything falling in! A simple plate of thin steel is easy to make - don't forget the little locating studs need holes too! The studs themselves are only partly threaded, so a set of four short tubes allows the original nuts to hold down the plate. An alternative would be to use masking or gaffer tape! John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now