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Gradual loss of brake performance


mark powell

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When I drove my Midge up to Wales from Sussex last year, I experienced a gradual loss of brake performance, until I was having to virtually stand on the pedal to actually stop the car. It has type 14 calipers with unknown pads. There seems to be good pressure, as the pedal does not go to the floor. Could it be down to the pads? Would a set of Mintex 1144's be worth trying? I know they are expensive, but cheaper than a pair of calipers.

Any advice gratefully received!

 

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I've never been really ok with the brakes since I completed the rebuild. It has only done short trips until the trek to Wales and those trips left braking to be desired. No servo, just want to sort it out before summer use.  Handbrake is good. I'll be taking the current pads out to inspect them in the Spring.

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Hmmm wonder if the pads are fully bedded in as this can take a few miles. Saying that cheap aftermarket pads can be pretty awful and as reported many times on here a change to Mintex 1144 (the label must actually say that) or NOS asbestos pads makes for a big improvement....

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i think this has all the hall  marks of things like green stuff

easy to clean the wheels but hopeless as a brake compound

1144 are the best but as you say pricey,  

note on the mintex box it will say not for road use as they contain undesirable particles 

you must bed them in firmly with somefast hard pull ups dont stop  let them cool and repeat 

2 /3 times then they work like magic 

good set of std  mintex or branded pads may be your answer can be much cheaper and might suit your but steer clear of any green types if you want to have brakes 

Pete

driving 

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all new pads and shoes do need to bed it to be best effective

there is a mintex requirement i have posted a few times but im on laptop now and i dont have the link

some just need normal useage  and some need more aggressive bedding to condition the pad surface .,

mintex1144 need some serious stops , if you get them smoking its a stop too far

but getting some good heat in makes them work well tere after

when im on the desktop i will post the bedding clues tomorrow 

make of it what you will

Pete

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Rather than merely  a case of not the best pads, I fear that "gradual loss of brake performance" over a trip of 200 miles (?), with the symptoms described, indicates a loss of mechanical efficiency in the brake system.     Thorough inspection needed, starting with the state of the fluid, movement of the master cylinder, state of the flexy hoses and movement of the cylinders.   I'll stick out my neck and say the last - are they both moving, in both calipers, no seizure?

Sorry, but just changing your pads in this situation is unlikely to improve matters.

John

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13 minutes ago, JohnD said:

Rather than merely  a case of not the best pads, I fear that "gradual loss of brake performance" over a trip of 200 miles (?), with the symptoms described, indicates a loss of mechanical efficiency in the brake system.     Thorough inspection needed, starting with the state of the fluid, movement of the master cylinder, state of the flexy hoses and movement of the cylinders.   I'll stick out my neck and say the last - are they both moving, in both calipers, no seizure?

Sorry, but just changing your pads in this situation is unlikely to improve matters.

John

Thanks John,  It had occurred to me that there may be other issues, so I will be stripping the system down to ascertain the health of everything.  The trip was 300 miles, so as you say, other issues.

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17 hours ago, mark powell said:

I've never been really ok with the brakes since I completed the rebuild. It has only done short trips until the trek to Wales and those trips left braking to be desired. No servo, just want to sort it out before summer use.  Handbrake is good. I'll be taking the current pads out to inspect them in the Spring.

As your brakes have never been good I think I would install Mintex pads first before stripping anything. Some pads can be absolutely awful (see previous posts on here) and anyway the Mintex are likely to be better than whatever youve already got but if still lacking then inspect further.....

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One of my Non Triumph cars many years back had pattern pads and the metal part was jamming as the pads wore down. Quite terrifying. On arrival at a relations place, he stripped them, ground the metal to match the old pads and all was well. They were just 1mm too big. I was in my twenties then and grateful to this Uncle in law who worked in Plymouth Dockyard as an inspector of mechanical parts.

Could be worth checking, but it is, probably, the material.

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4 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:

Not particularly complicated, but necessary. Posted in 2019 by some chap from Luton.

image.thumb.png.faf77c49a75132ef30aa1571e0668370.png

Doug

It is if you live in London, even 30mph can get you fined! Going from 70 to 30 down the A13 will get you run over by dirt or scrap trucks.

Welcome to my world....

Iain 

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3 minutes ago, euan douglas said:

Yes, I understand now!  I think senile decay is setting in quicker than I thought!

Theres also 'heel and toe' which in our cars with their tiny pedals might be more appropriate.... 

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3 hours ago, johny said:

 You racers might😁 

I had british motor cycles for thirty years. Left foot was the rear brake.

I suggest that you may brake with the foot that is left which can be the right one if you are an amputee. The left foot is the right one to use on the clutch. What a stupid language we have.

I used to drive automatics imagining that I was on my Brit bike. Super for quick take off winding the torque converter up. Not good for the drive shafts though.

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they advise no left foot  you need to let the brakes work as intended not fight braking against the throttle .

on a modern with abs,and all the other control techy nightmares using the brake with throttle open will confuse the sh1t out of the management ecu and you will get a load of warnings that need clearing

so if in your modern you need to test the brakes after fording ...dont use the accelerator at the same time 

Pete

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