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Changing MK2 Vitesse rear spring


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Hi, I need some help please. After a previous thread to ask questions as to why my Vitesse sat so low at the back I now have a new spring from Rimmer Bros. I have the old spring out, it had leaves taken out. I am trying to get the new one in. I am struggling for space. I enclosed some photos. All I can think to do is undo the half shafts neat the differential in the hope that this will allow the hub to drop a bit more, presently this cannot go lower as the half shafts in resting on the chassis. Any tips on what will be the path of least resistance and require me to take a little apart as possible. Many thanks Bob

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This is from the free to download Triumph workshop manual and shows the tool required to hold the spring flatter. Its possible to do it without on the mk1 but yours especially with a new spring is probably impossible without...

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Thanks, I did know about the spring bender. My problem is that I cannot get the spring in to bolt it to the differential. 

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Yes being new the spring will have quite an arch so needs flattening with the tool to get it in😞Even then fitting the tool to the spring in the first place cant be easy but maybe it can be pulled flat enough with straps or something...

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1 hour ago, Bob said:

My problem is that I cannot get the spring in to bolt it to the differential. 

The impression I get from the pictures is that although the spring can be placed in the tunnel, the underside of the spring cannot be brought into contact with the upper face of the differential and this is beacuse, such is the curvature of the spring, that the spring ends are sitting on top of the rotoflex couplings.

If that's correct then it may be worth scrutinisng the 'by the book' procedure from the Ops. manual. Relevant sections attached for convenience. Perhaps the main point is that the original procedure specifies disconnection of the dampers, radius arm and the inner half shaft UJ.  Making the drive shaft unit mobile in this way may give you the leeway you need.

Fiiting a brand new spring can be a fearsome job! Even with the spring lifter a great deal of force may need to be applied and the eye-bolt may only go in with much persuasion (or the use of finders and so forth).

 

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Chris thanks. That does sound like a good approach. You said that you attached the sections of the manual, but I do not see these. How do I get to the files please? Thanks Bob

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I have just refurbished my rear spring and replaced the differential with a 3.62 ratio.

 I have also converted from lever type shockers to telescopic type- which you already have.

My inner drive shaft bolts and shockers were already disconnected and I didn’t experience a difficulty in bolting the spring to the diff.

 I used a spring lifter and trolley jacks underneath the vertical link but I also used ratchet type cargo straps to align the vertical link with the spring.

It isn’t an easy job but is definitely doable by one person.

Did you check the centre off the spring to ground clearance in its free standing position before fitment?

Pete.

 

 

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Bob. Sorry, forgot to mention that the handbrake cable and radius arms were also disconnected (I replaced all of the rear suspension bushes at the same time).

  Follow the procedure that chrishawley has attached, I did mine on my own but it would probably be easier if you have someone to help.

Let us know how you get on!

Pete.

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on the rotoflex set up you really do need to make a spring lifter ,,  on swing axles  you dont .

many make a diy version it needs to be strong but not overkill even a decent bit of timber and some straps can work 

its the only way to overcome the engagement on the diff and the eye bolt into the upright 

always keep fingers out of the way !!!

Pete

 

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3 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

on the rotoflex set up you really do need to make a spring lifter ,,  on swing axles  you dont .

many make a diy version it needs to be strong but not overkill even a decent bit of timber and some straps can work 

its the only way to overcome the engagement on the diff and the eye bolt into the upright 

always keep fingers out of the way !!!

Pete

 

I found using timber you couldn’t get enough lift as the timber is thicker than steel and hit the wheel arch 

Paul 

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I would check the dimensions of your spring as advised by Puglet

some of the reproduction springs supplied are not to original specification (Ask me how I know!)

The dimension should be as per the attached chart below for a MK2 Vitesse

If the eye to eye distance and free arc height when resting on the floor out of the car are not within a few mm of these dimensions I would send it back and ask for a refund as not fit for purpose 

Regards

Gary 

Herald & Vitesse Rear Spring Dimensions.jpg

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4 hours ago, Gary Flinn said:

I would check the dimensions of your spring as advised by Puglet

some of the reproduction springs supplied are not to original specification (Ask me how I know!)

The dimension should be as per the attached chart below for a MK2 Vitesse

If the eye to eye distance and free arc height when resting on the floor out of the car are not within a few mm of these dimensions I would send it back and ask for a refund as not fit for purpose 

Regards

Gary 

Herald & Vitesse Rear Spring Dimensions.jpg

Bob.

I took advice from Gary who is very knowledgeable and helpful.

My spring was within spec as per chart above.

I also replaced the rubber buttons with delrin self lubricating type.

Prior to driving the car I thought that I’d made a mistake because the rear suspension stood so high.

Gary assured me it would return to its correct height once driven and I’m pleased to say he was right 👍

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  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Hi all,

Thank you once again for all of the advice. Other things kept me away from completing this, however the prospect of the weather changing inspired me last weekend to get on and finish the job.

A couple of weeks ago after removing the old spring (which was hardly a spring anymore) I soon discovered that as per all the advice a spring lifter was certainly required. After a few phone calls, I managed to find a local welding shop who made the whole piece for £20 (Not bad I thought). After a couple of failed attempts I found lowering the car off the axle stands and on to some old wooden blocks to lower the rear of the car gave me enough height extension on the trolley jack on the end of the spring lifter to finally get the the first side of the vertical link into place and get the bolts inserted.

The second side put up a slightly stronger battle, however using a length of wood and the scissor jack (learnt here that bottle jacks do not work horizontally - I guess the I should have though about that as it is understandable) against the garage wall I was able to lift the hub in the arm into place and finally get the bolt through.

Like ‘Puglet’ before me I was quite horrified by the new height after securing everything and dropping the car back down on those wheels however a half hour drive last Sunday afternoon around some country lanes soon brought the car to an acceptable height. Still early days and obviously I will check to make certain everything is okay as I move forward. With the weather as it has been this week I have done quite a few miles and it's great to finally have the Vitesse I purchased in January usable and enjoyable here's to many more miles of enjoyable Triumph motoring.

Edited by Bob
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