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STAG rear wheel bearings


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My Stag has just passed its Mot (28-May 24) with an advisory the near side wheel as slight up & down movement.

My question being:- could the wheel bearing be the culprit and are they tapered adjustable wheel bearings?
The MOT tester didn’t appear overly concerned - has  anyone any advise for me.

Many thanks

Brian SCULPHER

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This similar post on the Tr forum may assist you

The TR6 is fitted with a similar rear wheel bearing set up 

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjS8pi6x7CGAxVHVUEAHfCtAF0QFnoECBoQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.tr-register.co.uk%2Fforums%2Findex.php%3F%2Ftopic%2F73718-play-in-rear-hubs%2F&usg=AOvVaw0uKowmv-Yd6-Rl8PT32Mkg&opi=89978449

I don't wish to alarm you but the rear Hubs can fail disastrously on the trailing Arm type suspension fitted to a TR4a/5/6, Stag and the 2000/2500 Models, so any play is not a good sign.

Regards

Gary 

Edited by Gary Flinn
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          Yes Gary`s link to the TR item is well worth reading. If you have play in the hub, it means the bearing is on its way out, or it wasn`t set up correctly in the first place, easy to over tighten the crushable spacer. This is not a job for the inexperienced or faint hearted.     Mac.

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its easy to pull the whole shaft out through the back plate you can then see the nut/locknut and tab washer that 

controls the bearing float , 

you need a thin wall spanner that no body has , its very shallow nut .

I got exchange hubs  in the end , ,the bearings are pretty bullet proof ,but you cant rely on knocking the nuts to 

tighten them .

stub failures i am sure is from fitting exchange hubs and you  fit an previous LH to a RH  etc.  and the 

torsional memory starts a crack and off goes the wheel with a lot of damage .

 

Pete

 

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I neglected to add my car had a wire wheel conversion some years ago and I recently removed that wheel just as an exercise changing out a wire wheel.

Perhaps that may have attributed to the slight movement issue or am I chasing rainbows!!

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dont feel any of that is connected to the end float on the two taper brgs .

sorry rainbows wont help here   Ha !!

i have searched much and not found any spanner made by churchill or anyone else 

daft  we should get some made its a simple thing to adjust but without the thin spanners  ....quite hopeless

blasted annoying really.  

Pete

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its easy to pull the drive shaft and hub just undo the uj coupling to the diff, remove the wheel and drum undo 6 nuts draw the whole assy through the back plate dont mess with the brakes at all.

you will see the thin crazy nuts that control the end float , if you can find a way to make a spanner to fit 

untab the lock washer , lightly re nip the inner nut, check the float has reduced, lock the lock nut 

its that simple     I do not expect the bearing to have worn or failed its just a adjustment no different to front hubs but you wont get spanner that works  

when withdrawing  try to not let the telescope on the shaft to unload ., has a master spline easy to relocate on the bench but in the dark not so easy  Ha!

Pete

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