Dave the tram Posted August 4 Report Share Posted August 4 Overdrive was intermittent to come in then stopped working on my late Mk 3 GT6. This was after a long lay-up for bodywork refurb. I assumed the solenoid was working because I can hear it when operating the gear lever switch or moving the lever across the gate. I might be wrong because I’d read that it wouldn’t have a separate relay, but now realise it does, which I might be hearing on the bulkhead, so I’m going back to thorough electrical testing. Meanwhile I’d decided to check the non- return and relief valves, leaving tunnel removal til last (to check solenoid movement, lever adjustment and filter). I thought I might find sludge etc but all nice and clean with clean oil. Question is, having removed the various bits, springs ball, etc, I can’t see how to remove either body. The manual says unscrew one, circlip pliers for the other, but can’t see how - any tips very welcome and I’m not really clea4 on how these both work. In fact should I even bother if all seems clean? I guess so having come this far - I had to remove exhaust to get a socket on the non-return valve plug, which PO had damaged when trying. Shame to have nice paintwork and rust free bodywork but no O/D. I think it’s absence makes it only half the fun to drive! Photo included of the relief valve parts in order, which had 4 shims on top of the spring - I’m pretty sure the plunger should be the other way round on my photo, I didn’t pay attention as it came out. Also pic ofwhat I’m looking at with the relief valve body still in place - how would you use circlip pliers? Cheers Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 4 Report Share Posted August 4 There is some argument but GT6 never came with J type (relay free) overdrive only D type so will always need a relay. The manual says the relief valve body can be hooked out with a piece of bent wire in that hole you can see in your photo. The pump body is more complicated and as everything is clean I reckon best left alone. Outside of the electrics and solenoid operation the main worries are the state of the o rings generally (gone hard/brittle) and cleaning of the filter plus the operating valve drain hole... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave the tram Posted August 4 Author Report Share Posted August 4 Thanks Johny I’d wondered if that hole was why Haines said circlip pliers - I’ll try that, hooking it out but leave the pump body as I can’t see how you would unscrew it if that’s what’s needed. I’ve checked the operating lever adjustment in the distant past, and presume that with the tunnel off you can clean the filter (never done that). Can you access and check the operating valve also with the tunnel off? Also, does anyone know - am I correct that the relief valve plunger should have the groved rings uppermost, opposite way to my photo? My Haines manual picture isn’t very clear. Cheers Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 4 Report Share Posted August 4 Have you got the free to download triumph workshop manual Dave? Heres the relief valve and its so easy to put things back wrong! The operating valve is certainly accessible with the gearbox cover off and I assume the filter as well although Ive never done it in the car and its not listed as a service item in the manual🤔 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave the tram Posted August 4 Author Report Share Posted August 4 No, only the Haines manual. I’ll do a search for the workshop manual. Looks as I thought from the diagram. I assume the 4 thin shims have been added later to help keep the valve closed, but not sure how you tell if they’re needed or how many. I’ll just put everything back as I found it. cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 4 Report Share Posted August 4 The shims were probably put in by the factory to get the correct hydraulic pressure (each spring is different) and of course the pressure can be measured again to see if thats still the case. Website is vitessesteve.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave the tram Posted August 4 Author Report Share Posted August 4 Many thanks. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave the tram Posted August 24 Author Report Share Posted August 24 OVERDRIVE NOW WORKING PERFECTLY - MANY LESSONS LEARNT 1. Believe it when everyone says O/D problems are nearly always electrical and don’t start dismantling things until your sure! 2. Following the test script for checking the relay was helpful, but I convinced myself that I could hear the solenoid activating as well when I triggered the relay. I later realised that when I connected 12v directly to the solenoid feed, I heard a different sound. 3. I added a further check to the test script and checked the output voltage from the relay when triggered - 12v, which doubly convinced me that the relay was fine. Only later did I realise that it dropped to 2v when the lead was reconnected so that current was being drawn by the solenoid. Resistance in the relay and a new relay fixed it. Oh well, at least I now know I can get the plugs off the bottom of the O/D by removing the exhaust, which is now refitted better to give another inch of ground clearance. Also that the pressure valves etc are completely clean and no nasty sludge. Also that the wiring under the tunnel is all perfectly good and I’ve now put more sound deadening in the tunnel before refitting. As my mate with his TR4A says, that’s why we have theses cars to keep us amused, but just fitting a relay would have saved many days of work. Hey ho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin V Posted September 16 Report Share Posted September 16 On 24/08/2024 at 15:35, Dave the tram said: OVERDRIVE NOW WORKING PERFECTLY - MANY LESSONS LEARNT 1. Believe it when everyone says O/D problems are nearly always electrical and don’t start dismantling things until your sure! 2. Following the test script for checking the relay was helpful, but I convinced myself that I could hear the solenoid activating as well when I triggered the relay. I later realised that when I connected 12v directly to the solenoid feed, I heard a different sound. 3. I added a further check to the test script and checked the output voltage from the relay when triggered - 12v, which doubly convinced me that the relay was fine. Only later did I realise that it dropped to 2v when the lead was reconnected so that current was being drawn by the solenoid. Resistance in the relay and a new relay fixed it. Oh well, at least I now know I can get the plugs off the bottom of the O/D by removing the exhaust, which is now refitted better to give another inch of ground clearance. Also that the pressure valves etc are completely clean and no nasty sludge. Also that the wiring under the tunnel is all perfectly good and I’ve now put more sound deadening in the tunnel before refitting. As my mate with his TR4A says, that’s why we have theses cars to keep us amused, but just fitting a relay would have saved many days of work. Hey ho. We’ve all been there Dave. Forever learning😏. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted September 17 Report Share Posted September 17 16 hours ago, Martin V said: We’ve all been there Dave. Forever learning😏. Still learning and more importantly UNLEARNING every day. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve P Posted September 17 Report Share Posted September 17 Me too but unfortunately not voluntarily. S 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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