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If you get the same noise on both sides its unlikely to be wheel bearings and sounds like the diff. However the test you are doing is not its normal operation (one wheel stationary and the other rotating) so could you try both wheels off the ground and with two people rotate them together? 

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Yes it sounds very much like a loose bolt on the reverse of the flange is just touching the front bolts of the diff or possibly the universal joint has completely failed but it looks pretty new...

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Quote

 

have alook at the 4 bolts holding the front carrier to  the  diff casing  

these should be special wedglock tapered shank bolts and an internal star washer

if one comes loose it fouls the prop bolts and will make  a terrible noise  (got that tee shirt a long while ago)

the taper shank bolts are due to having big holes in the carrier and small threadbolts  

a std 3/8 unf bolt is not OK.in this fixing ...

many places sell them   https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-132856

 

pete

4481-Zoom.jpg

Edited by Pete Lewis
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You dont have to have it balanced after changing a universal joint as theres a good chance it will still run smoothly. Usually any imbalance is in the prop shaft itself so if it ran smoothly before and you reassemble it exactly the same way a new joint shouldnt upset things👍

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The flanges on a U/joints have four holes, spaced in two pairs so that they can be bolted together in only two ways.  There is one U/joints at each end of the prop shaft, so test there are four possible positions.

Of these one may produce bad vibration/noise, two some and one will run perfectly!  Suggest you carefully label the flanges at each end, and try the combinations, until you find the sweet spot!

John

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But I think I hear the noise on the side of the gearbox. Is it the same connection? I think so, four screws to release. Do you have a UJ on each side? I would say that mine is the one in the photo but I'm not sure.

IMG_1025.png

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