Rogues Posted August 12 Report Share Posted August 12 I'm back with further issues on my water return pipe, I've now order a replacement part number 210834 but this differs from that advised from Rimmers, put that aside I realize that the previous owner put a sports exhaust system on where I now have three feeds into a two exhaust pipe system. This changes the manifold assembly quite a bit and I now can not work out how the water return pipe can feed through this arrangement. Has anyone got a similar set-up, if so how have you got over the problem? Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 12 Report Share Posted August 12 oh dear if the exhaust is in the way you'll have to make up a custom arrangement. This might be why the original pipe was cut short and rubber hose used☹️ However to avoid the heat problem the only other alternative is to get some suitable pipe (copper?) and make your own... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogues Posted August 12 Author Report Share Posted August 12 Thanks Johny, thanks again for your speedy reply, I was thinking that making my own could be the only solution but wondered if anyone with a similar set-up has any other suggestions Rog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 12 Report Share Posted August 12 I can only think of blocking off the supply and return and not have manifold or interior heating - not so daft, see the other current thread on here... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted August 12 Report Share Posted August 12 Have used the heater in my Vitesse as an extra radiator. Regards Paul. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 12 Report Share Posted August 12 Yes Paul think the effect is minimal and as I said in the other thread instead you might as well push that water through the main radiator for some proper cooling plus be more comfortable😁 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogues Posted August 12 Author Report Share Posted August 12 Hi All, this small job started because my heater wasn't functioning very effectively so I'll be a little reluctant to bypass it. Out of interest should this bypass pipe run on the cylinder block side( mine was) or outside the manifold? Rog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 12 Report Share Posted August 12 Heres the free-to-download Triumph manual drawing and it runs behind the manifolds quite tight to the block to minimise the radiant heating. It enters the back of the water pump housing but I suppose you could make up a short pipe to come out at the front and then run a long rubber hose around the outside to avoid the manifolds before connecting to the adaptor.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogues Posted August 12 Author Report Share Posted August 12 Hi Johny, that's really helpful, in the meanwhile I've been looking at 15mm flexible stainless steel with copper pipe connections, they're available from Toolstation. The longest length is 450mm so I may need some extensions or adaptor to fit on the water pump. Still trying to work it through. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 12 Report Share Posted August 12 That would be neat but have to figure out how to connect it to the water pump as think the compression fitting with olive used there is for 1/2" pipe... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Twitchen Posted August 12 Report Share Posted August 12 1 hour ago, johny said: you could make up a short pipe to come out at the front and then run a long rubber hose around the outside to avoid the manifolds before connecting to the adaptor That's what I ended up doing on my GT6 Mk1 where the Jigsaw manifold was tight against the block and no room for the stainless return pipe. Been fine these past eighteen years. Dick 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogues Posted August 12 Author Report Share Posted August 12 I've got quite a few 1/2" fittings from years ago so I might have a look what I've got alternatively I may be able to use the existing fittings and do a straight connection between the stainless steel pipe and the new 15 mm copper/ flexible stainless steel. Any thoughts? Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 12 Report Share Posted August 12 yes if you can get a 1/2" olive on to the new pipe - I think theres threads on here where people have filed down pipe ends to do just that.... Best to avoid more joints if possible and I wonder if the new Rimmers pipe couldnt be modified to suit. I know stainless not the easiest to work with but could it be straightened at end (maybe with heat) to come out closer to the bulkhead and then a rubber hose be used when far enough away from the exhaust? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogues Posted August 12 Author Report Share Posted August 12 I've ordered two water return pipe from Rimmer and James Paddock, both have different parts numbers and both companies said theirs were the right one for Mk2 vitesse. So when I receive them I'll let you know the difference. At that point I may know which is the most suitable. I've also got a good welder, I will contact him to see if he can weld stainless steel. Wow, this isn't straight forward but hopefully all worthwhile. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 12 Report Share Posted August 12 I dont think therell be much difference as probably come from the same manufacturer. In the end it might have been easier just to have stuck with the old pipe and replaced the rubber hose (maybe with some high temperature stuff) as it probably lasted quite a while like that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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