Puglet1 Posted August 20 Report Share Posted August 20 Its time for me to eat humble pie ! I recently replaced the outer shaft and rear wheel bearings on my roto Vitesse. I used a dial gauge to set the end float to 1 thou. After reassembly, the car drove well with no noise from the bearing on right hand bend.Went out last night and after about 20miles the dreaded whirling sound started again. I have jacked up the car and there is excessive wheel bearing free play . Question 1. Has anyone experienced this or has any ideas what may have gone wrong? Question 2. Does this mean the whole driveshaft assembly has to come out again or can I adjust the bearing by removing the hub only? By the way, I’ve had enough humble pie to last me a lifetime - but I’m sure there’s plenty more on its way 😊 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted August 21 Report Share Posted August 21 When I replaced my bearings whilst swapping to CV shafts, I had similar problems. If I previously had ' whirling' noises I never heard anything - but my hearing is not top notch now and its a convertible! BTW, swapping to CV shafts,has absolutely no effect on bearing adjustment, as original Triumph hub is retained. Using the Canley Classics feeler gauge method, I ended up with too much end float, once assembled on the car - an audible clunk, even I could hear and feel it - an mot fail for sure I think! I pulled the hub off with the shaft in situ. Both sides had too ended up with too much endfloat. I managed to retrieve the spacer and shims, using some very small very strong neodium? bar magnets sellotaped end to end together and slid along the drive shaft,thro the inner bearing, and fished them out. After a couple of attempts using different spacer and shim combinations and using an old hub nut as a slave, I ended up with a satisfactory result. It's very labourious, but saves pulling the whole shaft out. If you try pulling the hub in situ, you will need to pack the hub outer grease seal with two thin plywood packers to hold it place until the hub is pulled back into posn. One more thought, might you have a double fault scenario? - i.e. 1. a bit too much endfloat, but not causing the whirling noise. 2. Are you absolutely sure the UJ has no play?? They can make similar noises and the rotoflex coupling can mask typical UJ noise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puglet1 Posted August 21 Author Report Share Posted August 21 trigolf. I’ll double check the UJ but I’m pretty sure it’s ok. If I hold the wheel at 6 and 12 position I can feel free play (in the same way front wheel bearings are checked). It seems to me that the whirling sound is linked to the free play. When I originally did the job I checked for free play on car using the same method and there was no movement or noise. I’ll order some magnets now. Thank you for your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted August 21 Report Share Posted August 21 Puglet, These are the magnets I used. It's fiddly but worked for me. Good luck! Gav Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 21 Report Share Posted August 21 the joys of rotorflex is some tasks can take a lot of faffing about to get it right removing the shims on car is possible magnets help a lot . but a few trial and error refits are solved with a good cup of tea laced with a bit of whisky /rum etc. helps pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puglet1 Posted August 21 Author Report Share Posted August 21 2 hours ago, trigolf said: Puglet, These are the magnets I used. It's fiddly but worked for me. Good luck! Gav Thanks Gav. That’s really helpful. I have just ordered them 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puglet1 Posted August 21 Author Report Share Posted August 21 2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: the joys of rotorflex is some tasks can take a lot of faffing about to get it right removing the shims on car is possible magnets help a lot . but a few trial and error refits are solved with a good cup of tea laced with a bit of whisky /rum etc. helps pete Hi Pete. That’s good news. Surely you meant a cup of rum/whisky laced with tea?😀 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 21 Report Share Posted August 21 Hic thats a good call !! Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve P Posted August 21 Report Share Posted August 21 I solved all this grief by handing my shafts/hubs etc. to Mike Papworth to build for me. S 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puglet1 Posted August 27 Author Report Share Posted August 27 Can anyone tell me does adding shims to the rear wheel bearing increase or decrease bearing free play? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 27 Report Share Posted August 27 Here we go: adding shims at 36 will push the hub 38 further out so slackening the bearings 31 and 34👍 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puglet1 Posted August 27 Author Report Share Posted August 27 Hi johny. That’s very helpful.thank you. 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 27 Report Share Posted August 27 I dont envy you that job as I would imagine the free play will increase as the bearings bed in! Its not like the diff where theres preload so a little bit of change is no problem😲 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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