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Seized Spitfire Mk3 speedometer


Rockape

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Greetings…

if you have seen my recent TSSC Facebook posts, you will know that my speedo seized up. This resulted in the nylon drive pinion getting stripped and the cable tying itself into a knot. I now have all the components out of the car and have the following questions

 

1. I need to source a replacement drive unit (hoping/praying/wishing the drive gear in the gearbox extension is ok - I am thinking the steel gear would easily turn the nylon to mush (the car was 200 m from home when it all went pear-shaped)

2. I need to refit the drive cable which the FB community said is too long. Does anyone know the correct length. I may be able to reduce this one, or as above, find a replacement

3. the speedo needs to be refurbished or replaced

4. am thinking of beefing-up the instrument lighting with LEDs.

5. What are these terminals for on the back of the speedo?

 

any advice/thoughts/suggestions on any of the above numbered points would be very welcome

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Yes, I saw the post on Facebook.

In terms of the speedo repair, I've used Speedy Cables (London) successfully for repair / recalibration work. They're based in Swansea, despite their name! https://www.speedycables.com/

The terminals / wiring on the back of the Speedo with the green cables - that's your voltage stabiliser for the feeds to the temperature and fuel gauges. 

LED instrument lights are a popular upgrade - they come in various colours, so you can replicate green etc. if the coloured insert into the gauge is missing. There are a few threads on here if you search LED lighting. I seem to recall the Club Shop sells the right bulbs, but not something I've done myself.

Not sure on the replacement drive unit - my first port of call for most things is Canley Classics, as their parts diagrams are a great way of finding the right part numbers. I then tend to check their pricing against James Paddock. They should be able to confirm the correct length speedo cable too.

Gully

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You might be able to inspect the output shaft gear through t'hole - one of those camera thingys would be useful here. You dont want to put a new drive in and have that damaged as well☹️

I changed the oil, high beam and indicator repeater for LED with good effect. However didnt do back lights as I thought they would be too much for night driving so just repainted the white insides of the instrument cases and it works well. You have to be careful with light creep as the internal rubber shields disintegrate and then light from one bulb can make another look like its illuminated...

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1 hour ago, Rockape said:

am thinking of beefing-up the instrument lighting with LEDs.

I bought LEDS for the instrument lighting from Classic Car LEDS - see advert on back page of latest Courier mag. The difference in llumination levels was like night and day - no pun intended!

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1 hour ago, johny said:

well yes to a certain extent but if too long you can have the opposite problem of where to lose the excess! Eh the drive is held in by that bolt showing in your previous photo...

 

1 hour ago, johny said:

You might be able to inspect the output shaft gear through t'hole - one of those camera thingys would be useful here. You dont want to put a new drive in and have that damaged as well☹️

I changed the oil, high beam and indicator repeater for LED with good effect. However didnt do back lights as I thought they would be too much for night driving so just repainted the white insides of the instrument cases and it works well. You have to be careful with light creep as the internal rubber shields disintegrate and then light from one bulb can make another look like its illuminated...

Interesting comment from Classic Car LEDs…do not change the Ignition warning lamp as this could drain the battery over a long run - they recommend leaving the ignition warning lamp as an incandescent…

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the pinion is a free fit  the only resistance is its small oil seal  so give it a pull

it may be seized and you need both parts to make a runner

a finger in the drive port will give you a clue if the  worm is fine 

these re generally plastic and can suffer a chew up .

for  RHD  Mk3  its common   with other models but non overdrive is  GSD111  

with any speedo cable if the inner is a bit short or too long you can with some car screw the outer spiral wound sheath to make small inner /outer ,dimensional adjustments 

Pete

Edited by Pete Lewis
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3 minutes ago, Rockape said:

Yes - this all makes sense - but no indication how the pinion is held….nuat push fit?

Yes just push it out and inspect/change the end oil seal. Think youre more likely though to find a complete unit secondhand...

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6 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

 

the pinion is a free fit  the only resistance is its small oil seal  so give it a pull

it may be seized and you need both parts to make a runner

a finger in the drive port will give you a clue if the  worm is fine 

these re generally plastic and can suffer a chew up .

for  RHD  Mk3  its common   with other models but non overdrive is  GSD111  

with any speedo cable if the inner is a bit short or too long you can with some car screw the outer spiral wound sheath to make small inner /outer ,dimensional adjustments 

Pete

Seems incredible the worm would be plastic inside the gear box….i really don’t fancy taking the box out to get the speedo to work ! 

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15 minutes ago, Rockape said:

Interesting comment from Classic Car LEDs…do not change the Ignition warning lamp as this could drain the battery over a long run - they recommend leaving the ignition warning lamp as an incandescent…

 Correct. An LED bulb fitted to the ignition warning lamp holder, does not draw enough current, compared to a tungsten bulb and so the charging regulation does not regulate the charge to the battery correctly.

 

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35 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

 

the pinion is a free fit  the only resistance is its small oil seal  so give it a pull

it may be seized and you need both parts to make a runner

a finger in the drive port will give you a clue if the  worm is fine 

these re generally plastic and can suffer a chew up .

for  RHD  Mk3  its common   with other models but non overdrive is  GSD111  

with any speedo cable if the inner is a bit short or too long you can with some car screw the outer spiral wound sheath to make small inner /outer ,dimensional adjustments 

Pete

Just ordered an endoscope to fit onto the phone….relatively inexpensive nit of kit that will be useful

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53 minutes ago, Rockape said:

Seems incredible the worm would be plastic inside the gear box….i really don’t fancy taking the box out to get the speedo to work ! 

To make you feel a bit better if necessary it should be possible to do it without removing the box as you remove the gearbox cover, jack the rear up so that the flange and gearbox rear casing can be removed, then tap the drive gear along and off the end of the mainshaft....

image.png.0ab7bc0e4350ebc6c38ec9125f609a8c.png

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53 minutes ago, trigolf said:

 Correct. An LED bulb fitted to the ignition warning lamp holder, does not draw enough current, compared to a tungsten bulb and so the charging regulation does not regulate the charge to the battery correctly.

Also sometimes a filament bulb will just start to glow which a useful indicator of an emerging problem with the charging system - presumably a LED wouldnt do this...

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16 minutes ago, johny said:

To make you feel a bit better if necessary it should be possible to do it without removing the box as you remove the gearbox cover, jack the rear up so that the flange and gearbox rear casing can be removed, then tap the drive gear along and off the end of the mainshaft....

image.png.0ab7bc0e4350ebc6c38ec9125f609a8c.png

 

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Thanks ….when I look at the diagram in Moss am damned If I can locate the drive gear on any of the shafts…probably looking at the wrong gearbox. This is 4speed, no synchro on first unit - no overdrive

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