johny Posted September 9 Report Share Posted September 9 well thats a 4 synchro box in the diagram but very similar to yours. Theres a free to download Triumph workshop manual for your car which will show your exact box👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted September 9 Report Share Posted September 9 (edited) Here is the canley classics diagram that I also put on facebook It is part no 3 on this diagram or part no 119131 but no longer available.. I would maybe contact Mike Papworth as he is the Triumph gearbox guru and has a large stock of parts. It is nylon so is very likely torn up as well, but can be replaced without fully removing the gearbox, just the rear extension Oops forgot the link https://www.canleyclassics.com/?diagram=triumph-spitfire-mkiii-gearbox-mainshaft Edited September 9 by DanMi 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted September 9 Report Share Posted September 9 2 hours ago, trigolf said: Correct. An LED bulb fitted to the ignition warning lamp holder, does not draw enough current, compared to a tungsten bulb and so the charging regulation does not regulate the charge to the battery correctly I know that is the case for an alternator, but does it apply to a dynamo/regulator? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockape Posted September 9 Author Report Share Posted September 9 2 hours ago, Rockape said: well - got the pinion shaft out…reason it was stuck is because it has got super hot and melted the nylon. And then seized and solidified when the vehicle stopped. Working assumption is that the root cause was the failure in the speedo, which caused the cable to “torque up” - this additional resistance increased the friction down at the sender unit resulting in the stripped gears and the melted nylon housing so now I need a new one of them ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 9 Report Share Posted September 9 Im really surprised it could get that hot just from being seized by the speedo! I havent seen the FB posts but are you sure the pinion didnt get hot on its own and seize in the its nylon holder so stripping the drive gear? If it was the speedo it must be in a right state😲 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 9 Report Share Posted September 9 a low oil level might contribute to this . Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted September 9 Report Share Posted September 9 I had a second hand gearbox with the pinion in almost the condition described by the OP. The gear part was fine, but the housing had snapped in half and part melted on to the metal shaft, had to peel it off! Mike Papworth was able to supply me with replacement bits. Spitbitz might also be worth a try. Possibly the Spitfire Graveyard but Dave often doesn’t do much disassembly, preferring to sell whole units. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted September 9 Report Share Posted September 9 might be worth a look, but postage seems very low https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186676595218?fits=Car+Make%3ATriumph&_nkw=triumph+spitfiregearbox&itmmeta=01J7BZ9856932JWHM8MJX14RTY&hash=item2b76caca12:g:MiwAAOSwpDdm3b95&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKk2kZshGwaKqUBmY6BAq2Tvo%2FBCyKS%2FJ8JwhK3tUiKC4rPlSYqVx7r5sn%2FkXMPv5DjnLvoWRuYj79%2BY7fWr7a%2B6IQakTSie2GxYf5%2F1HnifTHlzZTejeR%2Fzbo%2FUi9JwLxf4eQEsQUpXO5d53Nqg3sZxXLTi3qlrdPxv254GrJcEQ1QAFR24X96tkF2bp3is3%2BH91GFj1QT4aEe2cQKvYnrMQUtb%2FxOqRVwBZRI5gzJDb8XD2DmDCMEwq3eYisLZMS8dy5chSvujM8kkRVE9coT9zrsQiqt7SsLG%2B%2FPp1rfP%2BA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR9SCpf-6ZA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockape Posted September 11 Author Report Share Posted September 11 On 09/09/2024 at 14:57, Rockape said: I received the endoscope and have attached a short video for interest. The worm gear is not totally mashed (the good news). However it Speedo worm gear.MP4 has some damage and what looks like a split. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 11 Report Share Posted September 11 Hmmm doesnt look so good does it? Can you get a toothbrush in there to see if theres plastic debris stuck to it thats making it look worse than it is🤞 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted September 11 Report Share Posted September 11 It is possible to replace the worm gear with the gearbox in the car. You can jack the rear up high enough to get the rear extension off. Well, at least I’ve done so in a Herald so it should work in the Spit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockape Posted September 11 Author Report Share Posted September 11 41 minutes ago, Josef said: It is possible to replace the worm gear with the gearbox in the car. You can jack the rear up high enough to get the rear extension off. Well, at least I’ve done so in a Herald so it should work in the Spit. Thanks …this has been said before - but so has the opposite! Looking at the height of the tunnel and the length of the extension I am not sure how this is possible …but I will have a closer look! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockape Posted September 11 Author Report Share Posted September 11 55 minutes ago, johny said: Hmmm doesnt look so good does it? Can you get a toothbrush in there to see if theres plastic debris stuck to it thats making it look worse than it is🤞 I can probably clean it up a bit. But it is the split in the worm that worries me. It could have been there for 40years or 40 miles - who knows? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 11 Report Share Posted September 11 It looks deformed in several places to me and those edges might go back into place and mesh ok in the gear teeth or might just stay put and do damage. I would guess from the previous pics the worm is harder than the gear so the risk is high☹️ If the worm could be cleaned up with a blade or file it would have a chance but of course thats not really feasible... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 11 Report Share Posted September 11 think it really needs replacing they can be a tight fit on the mainshaft you should be able to get enough lift to clear the prop tunnel we have done that and removed/refited an overdrive leaving the gearbox on car so anything is possible when jacking do keep an eye of hose stretch and fan contact it needs the exhaust flange unbolting .and if fitted the gearbox exhaust support bracket. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockape Posted September 11 Author Report Share Posted September 11 4 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: think it really needs replacing they can be a tight fit on the mainshaft you should be able to get enough lift to clear the prop tunnel we have done that and removed/refited an overdrive leaving the gearbox on car so anything is possible when jacking do keep an eye of hose stretch and fan contact it needs the exhaust flange unbolting .and if fitted the gearbox exhaust support bracket. Pete Would need to undo the engine mounts as well presumably? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 11 Report Share Posted September 11 No there should be enough give in the engine mounts to leave them in place - in fact they help the whole lot to pivot so the gearbox ends up pointing upwards enough to clear the tunnel.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockape Posted September 11 Author Report Share Posted September 11 59 minutes ago, johny said: No there should be enough give in the engine mounts to leave them in place - in fact they help the whole lot to pivot so the gearbox ends up pointing upwards enough to clear the tunnel.... Interesting But undo the rear gearbox mounts right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 11 Report Share Posted September 11 err definitely and the propshaft flange, oh and drain oil of course.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted September 12 Report Share Posted September 12 If raising the rear of the box you will also want to separate the exhaust between manifold and downpipe. (I damaged a mk2 4-2-1 manifold by forgetting that) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockape Posted September 12 Author Report Share Posted September 12 1 hour ago, DanMi said: If raising the rear of the box you will also want to separate the exhaust between manifold and downpipe. (I damaged a mk2 4-2-1 manifold by forgetting that) Thanks.,someone else mentioned that.. just had another look and looking at the position of the front mounts I can see how the angle will work once the rear (gear box) mounts are off. Probably remove the radiator hoses as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted September 12 Report Share Posted September 12 3 hours ago, Rockape said: Probably remove the radiator hoses as well. And then the rad for safety, the clearance between the fan and the rad is small enough there’s a risk of pushing the fan in to the rad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockape Posted September 12 Author Report Share Posted September 12 11 minutes ago, Josef said: And then the rad for safety, the clearance between the fan and the rad is small enough there’s a risk of pushing the fan in to the rad. Thanks. Can easily take that off. I think as I will be on my own it will be easier to undo the bits and bobs (fan, hoses, exhaust etc) than trying to remove the box. I will start their and see how I get on. the other issue might be how much lateral force is required to slide the new worm on…dont want to damage seals on the box Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted September 12 Report Share Posted September 12 To be honest most of that you have to do to remove the box anyway as you also have to lift it. By the time you get to that stage the hard part of removing the box is done. The only gearbox seal is in the tail anyway so you won't damage it and I would replace as a matter of course anyway oh bank on removing the remote extension (very easy 4 nuts) but you want to have a gasket to hand as nothing worse than realising that you need it when the job is almost done and worth putting a re-bush kit on it from Canley classics whilst it is apart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 12 Report Share Posted September 12 with the rear extn removed you cant damage any seals or internals the worm can be a sod to remove , you may find serious pulling will tend to move the mainshaft and bearing out of its case bore add a washer/plate and bolt in any spare hole to keep the bearing firmly in place (its held in place by the rear cover which is now removed ) Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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