Rockape Posted September 12 Author Report Share Posted September 12 1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said: with the rear extn removed you cant damage any seals or internals the worm can be a sod to remove , you may find serious pulling will tend to move the mainshaft and bearing out of its case bore add a washer/plate and bolt in any spare hole to keep the bearing firmly in place (its held in place by the rear cover which is now removed ) Pete Thanks. Mike Papworth suggested just breaking it off. It’s buggered anyway ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockape Posted September 12 Author Report Share Posted September 12 1 hour ago, DanMi said: To be honest most of that you have to do to remove the box anyway as you also have to lift it. By the time you get to that stage the hard part of removing the box is done. The only gearbox seal is in the tail anyway so you won't damage it and I would replace as a matter of course anyway oh bank on removing the remote extension (very easy 4 nuts) but you want to have a gasket to hand as nothing worse than realising that you need it when the job is almost done and worth putting a re-bush kit on it from Canley classics whilst it is apart Thanks. Mike Papworth is sending me a box of the required gaskets and seals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham C Posted September 12 Report Share Posted September 12 Hello Rocktape, I saw your post on Facebook and I am pleased you have used the forum in seeking advice. When you have completed this task would It be possible to mention this forum and the help /guidance you got on facebook. It may help/encourage others to seek help from here. Many thanks Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockape Posted September 12 Author Report Share Posted September 12 23 minutes ago, Graham C said: Hello Rocktape, I saw your post on Facebook and I am pleased you have used the forum in seeking advice. When you have completed this task would It be possible to mention this forum and the help /guidance you got on facebook. It may help/encourage others to seek help from here. Many thanks Graham Sure - will do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockape Posted September 14 Author Report Share Posted September 14 (edited) On 09/09/2024 at 10:16, Gully said: The terminals / wiring on the back of the Speedo with the green cables - that's your voltage stabiliser for the feeds to the temperature and fuel gauges. Gully Hi - follow up questions on the voltage regulator 1. What actually is this ? How does it work? 2. I could do with starting the car so I can get it onto my jack ramps for easier access to drain plugs and the like. But the speedo will be away for repair☹️. So - would it be ok to run the engine briefly to move the car in the garage? Or would this fry the instruments ? Would I be better off keeping the speedo to hand and wire up the regulator temporarily and then send the speedo off at the end of all the mechanical work ? I think I probably answered my own question there !!🤔🙂 EDIT … just realised the VR simply unscrews from the back of the speedo. So I guess I can reconnect it ( and the earth wires) and that would work…. Edited September 14 by Rockape Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 14 Report Share Posted September 14 wait a minute theres two components here: voltage regulator and voltage stabliser. The first controls a dynamo if fitted and is a half brick sized black box somewhere. The other is a small unit for supplying a steady 10v supply to your fuel and temperature gauges usually mounted on the back of the speed. I guess youre talking about the second and without it those instruments wont work which is no problem for just moving the car. Do make sure though that any loose wire connectors are safely held away from earthing on anything... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockape Posted September 14 Author Report Share Posted September 14 (edited) 17 minutes ago, johny said: wait a minute theres two components here: voltage regulator and voltage stabliser. The first controls a dynamo if fitted and is a half brick sized black box somewhere. The other is a small unit for supplying a steady 10v supply to your fuel and temperature gauges usually mounted on the back of the speed. I guess youre talking about the second and without it those instruments wont work which is no problem for just moving the car. Do make sure though that any loose wire connectors are safely held away from earthing on anything... 17 minutes ago, johny said: wait a minute theres two components here: voltage regulator and voltage stabliser. The first controls a dynamo if fitted and is a half brick sized black box somewhere. The other is a small unit for supplying a steady 10v supply to your fuel and temperature gauges usually mounted on the back of the speed. I guess youre talking about the second and without it those instruments wont work which is no problem for just moving the car. Do make sure though that any loose wire connectors are safely held away from earthing on anything... Good shout. Yes - dynamo fitted car and the stabiliser is under the bonnet. So it’s just the regulator doohickey that might be missing. I shall just tape -up all the wires and go ahead and send the speedo off to the elves for fixing! Edited September 14 by Rockape Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 14 Report Share Posted September 14 wrong way round isnt it? Regulator under bonnet all ok and stabiliser missing - gets confusing otherwise😁 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockape Posted September 16 Author Report Share Posted September 16 (edited) On 09/09/2024 at 14:17, johny said: To make you feel a bit better if necessary it should be possible to do it without removing the box as you remove the gearbox cover, jack the rear up so that the flange and gearbox rear casing can be removed, then tap the drive gear along and off the end of the mainshaft.... Hi - i have the box/engine assembly jacked up. Drive flange off. I can now see the seal and bearings on the main shaft. But the extension casing isn't shifting. Any suggestions ? Edited September 16 by Rockape Typos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockape Posted September 16 Author Report Share Posted September 16 1 minute ago, Rockape said: Hi - i have the box/engine assembly jacked up. Drive flange off. I can now see the seal and bearings on the main shaft. But the extension casing isn't shifting. Any suggestions ? Does this nut go through the main casing and keep the extension in place? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 16 Report Share Posted September 16 no think that fixes the layshaft - need to look in the free to download workshop manual👍 The rear extension should just need tapping with a rubber mallet to break it free at the gasket and then needs knocking backwards to pull the rear bearing off the shaft..... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockape Posted September 16 Author Report Share Posted September 16 2 minutes ago, johny said: no think that fixes the layshaft - need to look in the free to download workshop manual👍 The rear extension should just need tapping with a rubber mallet to break it free at the gasket and then needs knocking backwards to pull the rear bearing off the shaft..... Have you got a link to the manual - is that in the TSSC webspace of somewhere else?(I have the Haynes ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 16 Report Share Posted September 16 its at vitessesteve.co.uk Comes up sometimes as insecure but carry on and download the the vitesse 1600/herald/spitfire manual 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted September 16 Report Share Posted September 16 Just an aside, the slave cylinder should have the bleed nipple at the top as air bubbles rise so won't bleed well in that position 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockape Posted September 16 Author Report Share Posted September 16 5 minutes ago, DanMi said: Just an aside, the slave cylinder should have the bleed nipple at the top as air bubbles rise so won't bleed well in that position Thanks. . I guess the PO did that…another thing to add to the list “while I am here”…. still can’t get the extension casing to shift though ☹️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 16 Report Share Posted September 16 Are you giving it a smart whack with a rubber mallet in an reinforced area? The joint flange is a good place with a piece of wood in different places. It is aluminium so obviously dont hit it in large non reinforced areas... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 16 Report Share Posted September 16 Then knock it back on the lugs where the rubber mounts screw in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockape Posted September 16 Author Report Share Posted September 16 1 minute ago, johny said: Then knock it back on the lugs where the rubber mounts screw in? Knocking it on the back of the lugs each side. Has to come axially in line with shaft right? Sideways isn’t going to work with the shaft stopping lateral movement. I think ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted September 16 Report Share Posted September 16 the gasket sealant will likely be acting like glue, you just have to persevere. having of course checked all around for missed nuts/bolts 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 16 Report Share Posted September 16 youve got to break it free at the gasket first though so tapping around the flange next to the gearbox main case. Here there is some movement side to side, up and down.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockape Posted September 16 Author Report Share Posted September 16 12 minutes ago, johny said: youve got to break it free at the gasket first though so tapping around the flange next to the gearbox main case. Here there is some movement side to side, up and down.... Done…(the lateral taps at the gasket did the trick) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 16 Report Share Posted September 16 Im afraid now might start the real hard work😩The speedo gear can be on very tight although not always - its ridiculous as the drive it has to transmit is minimal! Youre lucky that damaging it doesnt matter but how to actually do it is the problem. A steel rod against the gear and hit from the front while rotating the shaft? Make up a puller with two threaded studs pulling from the end of the shaft? Maybe heat it as the plastic doesnt matter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 16 Report Share Posted September 16 The gear doesnt look too bad in the photo so wont just clean up will it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockape Posted September 16 Author Report Share Posted September 16 21 minutes ago, johny said: Im afraid now might start the real hard work😩The speedo gear can be on very tight although not always - its ridiculous as the drive it has to transmit is minimal! Youre lucky that damaging it doesnt matter but how to actually do it is the problem. A steel rod against the gear and hit from the front while rotating the shaft? Make up a puller with two threaded studs pulling from the end of the shaft? Maybe heat it as the plastic doesnt matter? I have managed to move it - like before - tap, tap tap while rotating the shaft 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockape Posted September 16 Author Report Share Posted September 16 19 minutes ago, johny said: The gear doesnt look too bad in the photo so wont just clean up will it? It is not “totally mashed” but there is some damage to the leading edge of the gear. I have a new one so may as well change it having got this far !! 😂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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