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Halogen Headlights


chalky
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Hi Everyone,

 

I was just wondering if anyone had any experience with converting to halogen headlights from the regular type? The conversion seems interesting since I saw it on the Canley website, but I'd like to know what I'm getting in for before I take the plunge.

 

For information I have a gt6 mk 1.

 

Thanks,

 

Ben

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A good idea as hologen bulbs are more efficient, expecially if you fit some of the excellent Philips extra bright bulbs.

Contrary to what many people think you DO NOT need to fit relays when fitting halogens (as long as you use 55watt bulbs) as they draw the same current as the old sealed beam units. However, if you fit relays you will get even better lighting.

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I noticed more of an improvement in brightness when fitting relays to my halogen headlights, than I did from converting to halogen in the first place. So whilst relays aren't essential I would definitely fit them.

 

Another advantage is the light switch will last longer as it's only switching the relay and not carrying main current.

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I understand the Halogen conversion is pretty easy, but how about fitting a relay? And what would I need to fit a relay?

 

You would need 2 relays, 1 for the dip beam and 1 for the high beam. They will have 4 numbered terminals on them:

 

30 = 17amp cable from battery, install a 15amp in-line fuse.

85 = 17amp cable to earth

 

Then break into the Blue/White (High Beam) or Blue/Red (Dip Beam) that goes from the fascia switch to the headlights.

 

86 = Connect the Blue/White or Blue/Red (whichever circuit you're doing) from fascia switch.

87 = Connect the Blue/White or Blue/Red (whichever circuit you're doing) to headlights.

 

This is the cable you'll need: http://www.autosparks.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=1286

Relays: http://www.autosparks.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=1066

 

relay.jpg

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See my Blog entries on fitting a Halogen conversion with relays and a separate fusebox on my Dolomite. A bit more complicated than a herald as it has a 4 headlamp set up like a Vitesse but may be of some help. I also fitted a Halogen conversion to my GT6 a while back but without relays. I may change to a relay setting at some point though.

 

 

1st entry shows a diagram and list of parts

http://cook1e.blogspot.co.uk/2014/05/time-to-upgrade.html

 

The end of this second entry shows the actual installation (first part is a local car breakfast meet so ignore this!)

http://cook1e.blogspot.co.uk/2014/05/bank-holiday-weekend-sunshine-and-rain.html

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in line with all the comments its the best thing you can do  getting 14.5 volts to the pointed end will revitalise any previous glow worms

often running at less than 10volts with the old decay and agism of the system

 

    add getting a whiter light and the change becomes most illuminating...

Pete

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  • 1 month later...

I recently switched from sealed beams to halogen on my GT6 Mk1 as well and didn't find it necessary to install relays as for the moment I'm using roughly the same wattage bulbs. They are a little bit brighter than the sealed beams, but the real reason for my changing over to halogen is that I want to be able to buy new bulbs and fit them at a gas station when out on a trip.

 

I used a halogen conversion kit which comes with reflectors that have a receptacle for bulbs in the back instead of being sealed, so there's no new holes to be drilled and it even looks stock. Also, you can go back to sealed beams any time and with very little effort if necessary.

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Ah, but fitting relays WILL make the lights brighter. the switches and wiring in the car cause a voltage drop, fitting relays will reduce the drop and mean the ight switch only has to switch a very small current, meaning it is far less likely to burn out...

About to go and finish the wiring up of a number of relays on my "new " car, and if I can double check all the wiring for various bits (EFI ! ) may even turn the key later as well. Maybe.

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I can understand the arguments for fitting relays. But the existing wiring looks over-engineered, in that the wiring should take the headlight current with little voltage drop.

Has anybody actually measured the voltage drop across the various components, including the headlight switch, the various connectors, and the earthing circuit?

I would suspect that the really dodgy bit of wiring would be the the loop to the bonnet, which has had to cope with years of flexing every time the bonnet is opened, plus the earthing between the headlights and the chassis. But I would really like to see the facts.

If nobody has done this work, I will carry it out when the weather is a bit warmer in the Spring. Particularly because I have had my GT6 for 38 years and the wiring is original.

Views and comment welcomed - I want to open out this debate and see what comes of it.

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Has anybody actually measured the voltage drop across the various components, including the headlight switch, the various connectors, and the earthing circuit?

Yes.....though I can't remember exact figures as it was a few years back, but voltage was down around 10% at the back of the headlamp compared to the battery reading.

 

To me it's a no-brainer if you want the headlights to work at their best. As said in my earlier post, I noticed more of a difference in brightness when I fitted relays to the halogen lights than I did when I converted to halogen from OE. You will also extend the life of the switches. I can't think of a downside to fitting them, unless originality is a deciding factor.

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... and the thing about incandescent bulbs is, a 10% drop in voltage gives a 30% drop in light output. Try googling "incandescent voltage light life" and search for images. On the plus side, your bulbs last 4-times longer!

 

The wiring is rated to take the current, but minimising voltage drop by *over-rating* the cable gives you more light.

 

Richard

 

EDIT: ... and minimising cable length, hence the relays have a double benefit; not only removing the old contacts but allowing the cable to run almost direct from battery to lamps.

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other things to improve the volt drop is to add a bonded earth from bonnet direct to the battery earth tag, 

 

also worth bonding the body tubs and chassis 

 

My Vit6 was a 64 and with the original set up gave 10.5 volts at the pointed end .  

with halogen bulbs and 14v   you need sun glasses to dim the road sign reflections    

 

the improvement is as said the best thing you can do for peanuts , I agree its a no -brainer   

this is the cheapest modification you can do easilly with  amazing  improvement,   

 

Pete

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  • 2 months later...

This doesnt need proving but measure the front end voltage ,,,,,,,, with the lights ON

 

Never found one yet anywhere near the 14,5 running voltage

 

This has to be one of the most cost effective upgrades that really works

No kid yourself bulshine or fancy bling, just good old simple stuff.

 

Pete

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  • 4 years later...

mP7

I bought something similar to this from China, amazingly cheap and free postage.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/H4-Headlight-Headlamp-Bulb-Relay-Wiring-Harness-Socket-Plug-Wire-Kit-12V-60W-HB1/202546502608?hash=item2f28b65bd0:g:sbsAAOSwgYBbVeHz:rk:1:pf:1

I cut off the H4s and replace them with bullet connectors, others have bought additional H4s and attached them to the headlight wiring to match the loom.  The loom is easily clipped in to the existing loom holding arrangement in the front bonnet lip.  There are several other threads on here about this loom, all results seem favourable. 

Doug

 

 

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So to answer your Q

Fitted my relays in the front bonnet lip the same as Doug above with the same kit.

There are bullet wire junctions there to enable you to remove the bonnet. I used this so I did as little re-wiring as possible.  Sealed it all up and works fine on my mk1 gt6

Aidan 

 

 

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