Peter Truman Posted October 22 Report Posted October 22 As advised elsewhere I'm building up two spare Spitfire rear axle assemblies from diff to rear hub/wheel, I've had the axles annealed/teat treated to remove any directional memory to avoid torsional failure, I'm about to fit the outer rear hubs with new wheel studs to the assembled axle's, new UJ's, rear inner hub (new good quality bearings), Being worried about buckled rear hubs I've just had the hub faces checked, one is 0.008 of a mm out on the outer face, which we considered acceptable, the other 0.017 of a mm out, the latter we propose to skim so it's flat. a third one I had was 0.045 of a mm out a definite case of a 3 arm bearing puller being used, that too will be skimmed! What is the acceptable twist in the outer face of the rear hub, I've followed a supposed Concour quality Spit in the past where the wheel wobble of the wheel looked horrible, that in fact was a buckled wheel, new Minilite replica's fixed that. I would appreciate any members knowledge on what's acceptable? Thanks PeterT
Pete Lewis Posted October 22 Report Posted October 22 to me its the sort of face that would have a std 0.005" runout tolerance same for any coupling flange Pete 1
johny Posted October 22 Report Posted October 22 If you can get the brake shoes adjusted nicely to the drum ie minimal intermittent rubbing (can be drum out of round as well so try both) then I think thats got to be a pretty good indicator of the condition of the set up.... 1
ahebron Posted October 24 Report Posted October 24 Peter T more info on heat treating/annealing the axles please. I have a pile of axles in my shed that have been removed from hubs so no idea what side they are from. Thanks Adrian
Pete Lewis Posted October 24 Report Posted October 24 it involves heating to some temperature and cooling slowly well worth doing on any unknown shaft as many that shear have been fitted to a reversed side and the unwind creates a crack which propergates to a nice smooth failure but not for the driver or the car Pete
johny Posted October 24 Report Posted October 24 Id imagine its got to be done properly as uniform and not too soft - certainly dont want to lose hardness where the needle rollers run....
Peter Truman Posted October 24 Author Report Posted October 24 (edited) When discussing with the spring maker restorer we discussed not affecting the hardened bearing area I seem to remember he said heated to around 350/400 so it didn’t affect the hardening. A jag E type ownerI know has used him eons ago to recon the front torsion suspension to neutralise any torsional memory no problems to date He had a beautiful little red Honda S800 Coupe in restoring all the suspension, very interesting looking at the drive line and chain drives Edited October 24 by Peter Truman
ahebron Posted October 25 Report Posted October 25 Damn, thats just over stick it in the home oven range of temps. Assuming you mean celcius.
Peter Truman Posted October 25 Author Report Posted October 25 (edited) Yep were metric here!! He was aiming for the 350C. Moorabbin Spring Resto Edited October 25 by Peter Truman
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