Locked out

[pugwash]

This has probably been covered a thousand times but I have yet to work out the search system.

The passenger side door lock does not work from the outside, everything else seems to work correctly and the drivers side lock works. Initially the key would not go into the lock at all so I suspected a broken off key however some WD40 freed up the lock enough to slip the key in. That is as far as I have got, the key will not move 1mm in either direction when turned or rather not turned. The key works fine in the drivers side door (usually) and in the boot lock. I contacted the dealer who sold  the car who asked the previous owner if there was a key missing. The previous owner said no, that was the set of keys from the start, he also said he could never get the key into that lock. So, the key should be the right one - it is for the other two locks - and the barrel should also be original so why does the key not turn at all? Is it possible Leyland fitted one odd lock but with the correct profile key? As I said from inside the door handle and lock work fine and once unlocked from the inside the exterior door handle works as it should. It is just the perishing exterior lock. I know a lot of people do not lock their cars and I probably will not either but I would like this to work just in case.

Okay gurus, tell me why I am an idiot. 😁

[DanMi]

probably the barrel is just corroded and seized and could do with removing and freeing properly. You could try a better penetrating oil first 

[PeteH]

If the key can be inserted but not turned, the chances are the wards are seized into the locked position. In my View 2 options, 1 inject copius amounts of a genuine anti-seize product and wait, periodically trying to tun the lock without forcing it, my "go to" being plusgas, Others are available. BTW the popular WD40 is not a penetrating fluid, as it`s name suggests it`s primary purpose is as Water Dispersant. 2 try several alternative keys in the same sequence, it is possible that the lock or part has been changed in the past and it is just the wrong key, and not original OR the original key was lost and the drivers lock replaced with of course a different key too?. ie the driver door key is not original.

Pete

[Pete Lewis]

if you remove the door card if you remove the push button tappet bolt  the push button and its barrel can be removed  from the handle  and you will see if the little plates are setting flush or not  it will have the key number stamped on the barrel  does that match the key number 

Pete

[pugwash]

1 hour ago, PeteH said:

BTW the popular WD40 is not a penetrating fluid, as it`s name suggests it`s primary purpose is as Water Dispersant.

2 try several alternative keys in the same sequence, it is possible that the lock or part has been changed in the past and it is just the wrong key, and not original OR the original key was lost and the drivers lock replaced with of course a different key too?. ie the driver door key is not original.

I know about the WD40, it is all over the ignition system, but a look for some penetrating fluid at the toy shop (DIY) will be next on the list.

I have no other keys to try with, as I said the previous owner said the keys were the only ones and that the lock had not been changed. The key fits both the drivers door and boot so everything seems to point to the previous owner being right. At the moment everything seems to indicate seizure. Correct me if I am wrong but I always found that a wrong key but with the right profile would at least wiggle in the lock, if so then again a pointer at a seized barrel.

[Eric Smith]

I have never understood why people think WD40 and the light maintenance oils are penetrating oils - I believe it was developed for the US military or NASA to be used on missiles - if that is the case you don’t often find things seized. I was told that WD40 is mostly fish oil with various chemicals added which is good for coating components like lock barrels but you need a chemical solvent to get rid of any rust, grease or debris - as Pete H says Plusgas is a good old school penetrant but you would need a trip into town or go on line to get some - if you can’t get hold of Plusgas or other penetrating fluids use Diesel - its a brilliant penetrating fluid.

At a number of my old work places we always had a dropper bottle or spray bottle full of normal diesel for freeing up fasteners and locks, I remember being told about by an experienced engineer who said just try good old diesel.

If you puts few drops of diesel into the barrel then start to exercise the lock by keep moving the key in and out of the lock, after a few seconds try to move the key towards the opening position then back again - keep repeating this without any force, once the key and lock starts to move keep moving back and forwards till you get a full movement. Don't be heavy handed because you could twist or break the key.

Job done

Eric

 

[pugwash]

24 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

if you remove the door card if you remove the push button tappet bolt  the push button and its barrel can be removed  from the handle  and you will see if the little plates are setting flush or not  it will have the key number stamped on the barrel  does that match the key number

Good idea, I will try the penetrating fluid first simply as it is easier then if that fails take the door to pieces. Hopefully the lock is the correct one as I don't want a bunch of keys like a gaoler.

[Pete Lewis]

we got a new set of buttons with matched keys to the ignition   i reckon they were sorted out by mick dolphin

and if the key and barrel dont match you can remove the small plates and swap them around to match the key 

dont do this on the lawn  !!!!

Pete

[pugwash]

Okay, the DIY shop was visited and the stuff squirted into the lock followed by the key and a wiggle of said key. I now have to repeat this operation but there is a problem - surprise, surprise - as the car goes off tomorrow to get a new soft top fitted so continuing the process will have to wait a few days. Probably not a bad thing as it will give the penetrating fluid some time to work.

The penetrating fluid / rust remover is made by, wait for it, WD40. Not cheap at € 10 for the 250ml can but with that name it should be good stuff.

I shall put in an update when the car gets back and probably after more squirting and wiggling.

[Pete Lewis]

1 hour ago, pugwash said:

more squirting and wiggling.

think we are on the wrong forum again 

Pete

[pugwash]

13 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

think we are on the wrong forum again