Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:

No. It does need a gasket but unless there's some significant deformation or damage you won't need any. Unless of course you WANT some, in which case, add as required.

Thanks Colin, I just thought Hylomar would help to stop the gasket from moving on reassembly.

Posted
13 hours ago, Paul Amey said:

Thanks Colin, I just thought Hylomar would help to stop the gasket from moving on reassembly.

I was thinking more in terms of oil leaks but that will help the gasket stay in place, although I usually stand the gearbox on its' end, position the gasket, then lower the bellhousing onto it and bolt through. Obviously with no oil in the gearbox!

Posted

not really  but a thin smear if you like  

its a hard mating fit you dont want sealer making a slippy joint  

you do need a copper washer or sealer on the lower bolt that is a bore through to the oil

Pete

Posted
Posted
9 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

not really  but a thin smear if you like  

its a hard mating fit you dont want sealer making a slippy joint  

you do need a copper washer or sealer on the lower bolt that is a bore through to the oil

Pete

Thank you , yes. I'm aware of the bottom bolt copper washer.

Posted
9 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

I was thinking more in terms of oil leaks but that will help the gasket stay in place, although I usually stand the gearbox on its' end, position the gasket, then lower the bellhousing onto it and bolt through. Obviously with no oil in the gearbox!

Thank you.

Posted
22 minutes ago, Paul Amey said:

So, regarding oil, I believe the manual says EP90. I have a litre of EP80W-90, will that be right? I'm told you can't buy straight EP90 anymore.

Has to be EP90 GL4, I've got no problems getting it at present. My local Tractor Spares place has it in 5 litre tins. If it's going to be hard to get I'll invest in a couple!

Posted
42 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Has to be EP90 GL4, I've got no problems getting it at present. My local Tractor Spares place has it in 5 litre tins. If it's going to be hard to get I'll invest in a couple!

Yes, I've spotted the one I have is GL5 which would react with copper or bronze, so that's not going in!

Posted

Google comes up with the following:-

GL-5 gear oil is not recommended for older cars because it has more extreme-pressure (EP) additives than GL-4 gear oil, and the additives can react with copper and bronze:

  • EP additives
    GL-5 gear oil has about twice the amount of EP additives as GL-4 gear oil. These additives help the oil function under extreme pressure.
  • Copper and bronze
    The sulphur and phosphorus additives in GL-5 gear oil can react aggressively with copper and bronze.
  • API specifications
    API GL-4 and GL-5 are specifications set by the American Petroleum Institute (API) that determine the performance characteristics of gear oil. The API specifications for gear oils are not backwards compatible with each other.

For older vehicles, you can use a mineral oil based lubricant that is formulated without EP additives. Some companies, like Millers Oils, have developed products specifically for older vehicles. 

I topped up the Axle in Plum, back last year, with GL4 that I had on the shelf for a while. Availabilty of GL4 does not appear to be an issue, But the prices vary from around 21 quid for 5 litre, to the stars I think. Double what was on the container I used last year!!😭

Pete

Posted

yes we do need EP but the high level protection of GL5 is wasted on our cars so not worth buying it. However the standards dont dictate the additives used just the performance so GL5 can be made with non yellow metal aggressive additives and this should be indicated on the label... 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...