Dodgy parts??

[s.leah]

I had the head of my 13/60 a few months ago and whilst at it, I replaced the plugs, cap, rotor, coil, leads and a couple of other bits.

I haven't run it much since and hadn't (until this week) set things like gaps and timing properly.

Something I noticed was that it was starting to misfire when hot, sometimes just briefly, other times for a few minutes.

I decided this week to get it sorted and do all the gaps etc.

So plug gaps checked, rocker gaps checked, fitted new points and condenser that I hadn't got around to and set the timing and vacuum according to the Haynes manual.

Ran beautifully and went like a good-un until it got hot! Then misfired like crazy and just kept doing it, even after a couple of rests for a few mins.

Got on interwebs and one suggestion was swapping the coil if it was old or unkown.

I didn't think it could be it, as mine has a brand new coil on from Rimmers!

 

Willing to try anything, I lashed on the old coil and HT lead (old was screw in, new push fit) and balanced it on the bulkhead.

Low and behold car ran perfect! So installed old coil properly and went for a good long run and got it properly hot.

Didn't miss a beat!

 

Could be a faulty coil from Rimmers?

 

OR!

 

I've seen two types listed on other websites, balasted and non-balasted. No idea how you know the difference? Please could someone enlighten me? Do they look physically the same? Could Rimmers have sent me the wrong one, and could it cause the irrational misfires I was getting?

[Guest]

Hello.

 

I presume there is no ref number on the coil itself to check the Rimmer listing ??

 

It is possible to check the ohms of the coil via a multimeter (ballast & non-ballast coils have different impedance ratings) and I'm sure there was a discussion on here recently about the different readings.

 

I'm sure somebody on the Forum will be able to tell you what those figures are.

 

It is VERY possible that the coil was faulty at source, as can be the norm for a lot of ignition related items these days - classic example rotor arms.

 

Good luck.

 

Richard.

[Guest]

Do a Forum search on Gt6 mk3 coil and a very useful thread will appear -  dated 22nd March

 

It may at least answer some of your questions and enlarge upon my earlier response.

 

Regards.

 

Richard.

[s.leah]

Thanks Richard, I've learned something new tonight

 

A quick check of the 'new' coil and it seems to read about 1~2 ohms

 

I'd love to check part numbers, but there isn't a single marking on this 'new' coil, it's just plain silver with a white cap.

 

So they've either sent me the wrong one, or it's the correct one but faulty. No way of knowing. Either way, I think I'll be contacting Rimmers......

[Pete Lewis]

yes  ballast is 1.5 ohms   

      full 12v  is 3 ohms

 

 

you must have the points closed when checking the supplying voltage but 13/60 are not normally ballasted  ( think im correct on that)

 

so with a ballasted coil at 1.5 ohms  on 12v ignition  you will get very high HT  this blows rotors and  caps and  the points wears points quickly.along with blown condensers

many condensers sold are just too big and can foul the points cam,  that dosnt help,

some  aftermarket condensers were found to have nowt inside    and dont use spark plugs with an R in the suffix these will create weak sparks as they need a higher HT than our cars run some  dont agree but experience of misfires has proved they are not suitable

more for the modern stuff.

 

so happy motoring

 

 

Home > Ignition Components > Coils 

Lucas DLB101 CL1 45213 ignition coil

Our Price: £14.99 


 non ballast ssytems

 

12 volt

2 x screw terminals ( primary resistance 3 Ohms )

cross reference / replaces lucas

CL1 , DLB201 , DLB221 , DLB226 , DLB227

21949600 , 54041004

45020 , 45023 , 45027 , 45046 , 45053 , 45054 , 45067 , 45073 , 45074 , 45075 , 45082 , 45093 , 45099 , 45102 , 45103 , 45111 , 45113

45118 , 45132 , 45135 , 45137 , 45141 , 45169 , 45172 , 45173 , 45175 , 45178 , 45179 , 45185 , 45189 , 45190 , 45191 , 45200 , 45207

45208 , 45209 , 45212 , 45213 , 45229 , 45230 , 45231 , 45247 , 45249 , 45250 , 45257 , 45268 , 45272 , 45273 , 45284 , 45289 , 45291

45297 , 45299 , 45334

 

  Ballasted  DLB102  6v 1.5 ohm

12 volt

for use with ballast resistor

2 x screw terminals ( primary resistance 1.5 Ohms )

cross reference / replaces lucas

DLB102

 DLB110 delivers a high performance spark increasing performance and greater fuel economy

for use without ballast resistor use DLB105

 

there are many options out there 

 

pete

[Guest]

Obviously you are running with the standard set-up of points & condensor.

 

Could this be the opportune time to think of replacing those bits with an electronic kit that fits within the dizzy (a doddle to fit) + a Lucas Sports Coil ??

 

I have this set-up running on the Vitesse and have to say the ignition performance, vehicle responsiveness, fuel consumption and tickover has substantially improved. The Alpine has the same and benefits accordingly - although it does have some additional performance related items that require an electronic set-up.

 

Just a thought.

 

Richard.

[Andrew]

Hello I had the same symptoms with my 13/60 so I bought a coil from from the club shop my first call for all parts, and it has run like a dream ever since. I have reverted back or good old points with a red rotor arm once again from the club shop. Give Gareth a ring for some good advise

Regards

Andrew

[Pete Lewis]

as said before there are coils out there marked as 12v  being the base ignition  for  use on ballasted ignition  this is just to add confusion  they are 6v