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Door Hinges or Just the Pins?


AidanT
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My drivers side door fits reasonably well with even gaps around when closed. When opening  however, there is a definite  door drop. The door has to be shut hard / slammed to get the catch to fully engage. This seems to slowly be getting worse

 

The questions is do I need to replace the pins? or the whole hinge? or is it a matter of try and see!?

 

Thx

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you can just drift out the pins and refit new ones,  if the hinge body has worn this may half improve the slop.

 

new hinges are available around £20 each  shop around 

 

if the hinge has worn you can drill out and fit oversized pins or even bolts with a shank. but sizing has to be to a good fit or you end up worse than you started

 

take care the tapping plates in the A post and door are very thin , any over tightening and the cage plate will strip   this is a triumph weak link design

not intended for any ritual doing up or undoing , and its a pig to change .

 

any problems its best to drill out to 8.3mm and tap out to 3/8unf   or try 8mm which  has a deeper thread 

 

hope thats not depressing or confusing   

     just take some strong tea and sum up whats needed before you jump in  Ha !

 

Pete

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OK Thanks I will get some new pins to start. On a practical front can the pins be removed individually whilst the door is in place or is is better to remove the door and hings from the A post first? Also do the pins drift out in either direction or is it better to push them up and out?

 

Thx

 

Aidan

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im sure the pin has a knurled end to grip the hole so it onlt want to go one way,,    which ways that going to be   Hmmm !!!

 new pin will show what i mean.    can be done in situ if you have a good pin punch and access is straigth on

   otherwise   best whip the hinge off , you can do that  with the door closed   , dont go mad retightening book gives 16/18 lbs ft max.

 

 stick to 12/16 on old cage nuts  

     many have the  'Ive stripped'  it  Tee shirt.

 

      pete

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I've recently gone through this exercise and the hinge bodies seem to wear preferentially and fitting a new pin has made no difference. New hinges are of variable quality and if you do go this route my advice would be to reject and return to the supplier any that have slop.

 

John

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After doing some more reading on this I tried just to realign the door by loosening the top hinge from the post, gently lifting the door with a piece of wood and a scissor jack. Then re-tightening the bolts. Its taken a few goes but the door now closes without problems.

 

Maybe a temporary fix  - but I will see how it goes and how long it lasts

 

Aidan

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  • 11 months later...

Hi again Back to this subject   - I have now got new hinges and have manages to get the door and old hinges off (they and not the pins are knackered)  Anyway just a quick question - In what order do you put the hinges back on to the doors and A post? IT seems that they are all adjustable in terms of position but once the flat philips head bolt is in place I wont be able to get at it again easily. Please can you advise on best way to put back and to align the dorr

 

Thx

 

Aidan

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Hi again Back to this subject   - I have now got new hinges and have manages to get the door and old hinges off (they and not the pins are knackered)  Anyway just a quick question - In what order do you put the hinges back on to the doors and A post? IT seems that they are all adjustable in terms of position but once the flat philips head bolt is in place I wont be able to get at it again easily. Please can you advise on best way to put back and to align the dorr

 

Thx

 

Aidan

I'll dive in Aidan and may be corrected. But this is what I have done. Fit the hinges to the door first. You will note that two of the bolts are accessible with the door shut and the centre one which is countersunk isn't. You can fit the countersunk one later or just leave it loose for the time being. With the hinges fitted to the door offer the door up and start the screws into the A post. You should be able to latch the door at this point to locate temporarily. It may drop when you open it so adjust to suit. When you are happy with the shut, tighten the screws. If you then slacken the four exposed bolts two on each hinge which secure the hinges to the door you should be able to adjust the door in the vertical sense ie you can move the bottom in or out as required. Once done tighten and then when the door is fully open you should be able to fasten the two countersunk screws. This is not a five minute job and takes a bit of fiddling around to get the best shut lines and latching.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi sorry to jump on this thread but I've been having problems with my vitesse drivers door. I've finally got the gaps right but it's still a pig to close. It does look like the door quarter light frame is catching on the metal rail above the window (carbriolet).

 

My question is naturally I still need to loosen the hinges and move the door around again to try and get a better fit and to stop it popping open whilst driving. Can I also undo the hinges on the actual door to move it out slightly? Reading this post it's made me think as when I look at the v I tease the drivers door is slightly further out at the bottom than it is on the top.

 

Thanks in advance

 

Rich

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On a convertible there should be a hasp on the door and a staple on the b post to keep things from opening its used across all triumph soft top range

 

also very important little sprung wedge on the underside of the b post striker works ,this must be sprung and slide easy, it stops any lift allowing the cam to rise out of the striker plate

 

 

Pete

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