Nuts and bolts for a rebuild

[timjohnstone]

I'm working on a very long running cosmetic rebuild of my Spitfire 1500 I've had since about 1998. I've always kept the mechanics in good order but the bodywork and interior were suffering with age so that's all I've done here - strip everything off the car (except the engine, dashboard and running gear), sorted rust and sent it off for painting.

https://goo.gl/photos/xXcfUZvsZHe6Zfzy6

 

Within the next few weeks I should be ready to start putting all the bits back together again.

 

The question is I need to replace every old, ceased, wrong-sized or bent nut, bolt and screw. Does anyone have any recommendations for the best sort of garage packs of fastenings that would suit a Spitfire rebuild?

 

Tim

[Eddie]

I buy nuts and bolts from Namrick in Brighton. They have an excellent website and next-day delivery.

 

Have also used Spalding Fasteners.

[Clive]

Namricks are good, and 10 minute walk from my house. Not cheap though....

 

I re-use the old bolts wherever possible,  they are black bolts which just seem better, and even though not as pretty initially as BZP, are actually stronger (the BZP process takes a little strength)

Also check for correct shoulder length on bolts, I sometimes have to buy longer bolts than needed to make sure there is enough shoulder (this is critical applications, last ones were propshaft bolts)

 

I buy large bags of nuts and washers, so 100  1/4 5/16 and 3/8, probably 25 7/16 and so on. Washers I often use metric equivalents from toolstation, they do some stainless if required but they are a bit thin, many places a thick washer is better. 

 

Of course, Canleys and others will sell bespoke bolt kits, and then you should be getting the correct parts.

 

EDIT, avoid stainless for any stressed fasteners, eg suspension etc. They are not rated as high tensile...

[DanMi]

Beal.org.uk do cheap fasteners though only basic ones

[Roger]

I also re-use old bolts when possible, and the new shiny ones does not look correct if you try to keep the car original. Does anyone know where to find fasteners that have similar (black) color as the original ones?

[timjohnstone]

Most of what I took off the car was replacement already, and mostly metric. Almost entirely worn out.

 

I have 2 imperial socket sets and a couple of spanners, but not a patch on the tools I have for metric.

 

Bearing in mind this is everything above the chasis - I'm not bolting on any suspension parts, transmission or anything like that - I had intended to get all metric replacements and a handful of fine thread ones in there as well. Now that I've found Namrick's website (thank you!!) I'm hit with the front menu choice of BSF, UNC, UNF, BSW or Metric!

 

Do you have any recommendations on that bit?

 

Thank you very much for the responses! :-)

 

Tim

[dougbgt6]

Late GT6s have metric brake callipers. I guess if production had gone on a little longer total conversion! My first mini had Whitworth bolts on it.

[Mjit]

Original would have been a mix of UNF and UNC (generally anything screwing in to aluminium) and for anything important you should re-use UNC/UNF.  For purely cosmetic stuff, and assuming it's a nut-and-bolt rather than tapped hold-and-bolt you're fine to go with the closest metric equivalent.

 

That said I'm not sure there are that many true nut-and-bolt applications on the cosmetic side.  Parcel shelf front bolts, number plate bolts, dash 'H' support top screws, umm...  Most stuff is either a tapped hole (dash 'H' support bottom bolts) or captive nut (seat/seat belt to floor bolts).

[timjohnstone]

I've tried to keep the ones that fit in to a captive bolt like the seat belts and seats. But for some reason there's still hundreds of others - the doors, door furniture, light clusters, transmission tunnel, boot stay, number plate and a myriad of other little tiny things I'll have forgotten about until I get to them.

[AidanT]

I have used Bresco for a lot of my nuts and bolts - bit on the expensive side though

 

Aidan